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    Results 1 to 3 of 3
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Connecticut
      Posts
      847

      Changing automatic to manual

      how much work is it to change an automatic transmission car to a manual transmission?
      thanks guys


      Paul Krol
      1968 Camaro


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jul 2002
      Location
      Mesquite, TX
      Posts
      4,941
      Country Flag: United States
      You didn't specify what car or what kind of transmission, so I just did a brain dump of everything I've seen while changing my El Camino over.

      • Manual tranny, bellhousing, clutch (go figure!)
      • Clutch pedal setup, including linkage (frame mounts for linkage maybe, depending on what type of clutch setup)
      • Clutch ball spot on the side of the block might not be threaded (if you're going mechanical linkage)
      • Neutral Safety Switch will need to be reworked to run off the clutch pedal (okay, so this is actually optional but it's a good idea)
      • Reverse lights will have to be reworked to run off the manual instead of the neutral safety switch (state inspection likely makes this mandatory)
      • If you're column shift now, you may need to do something about the column
      • The hole in the floor is different - at least on my 65 Chevelle, there's a hump that's welded on for manual tranny
      • May or may not need a different driveshaft
      • You may need a different crossmember
      • You'll need a pilot bushing. Hopefully your crank is drilled to accept one. (I don't know if this is actually a valid concern)


      I'm sure I missed a couple of things, but it's very early.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      Like he said, it all depends on what you're starting with. It may be easier....

      If you've got the cash, a Hurst Driveline or Keisler type TREMEC kit will include "almost" everything you need - down to pedals. It also takes care of the neutral safety and backup switch issues.

      Some other points...

      The frame mount for the bell crank (z-bar) may be a bolt on item with predrilled holes, and in other cars it may be a weld on item requiring that you determine placement.

      Going with a hydraulic clutch may eliminate some things while at the same time introducing some other complexity.

      You also need to consider rear end gear ratios. That may also need to change.

      Many of the humps were never welded on. They're screwed on with sheet metal screws even from the factory. However, using a non-OEM type tranny such as a TKO may require some fabrication of the tranny tunnel to allow fitment. Depends on the car.

      I just did a conversion.


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