4L80e install - Questions

[critter]

I have a bunch of them.

I'm about ready to try the swap from a TH400 to a 4L80e in my 1974 Trans Am. This will include paddle shifters from Twist. I purchased the transmission, TCU and harness used from a local source. That's why I don't have those instructions in front of me.

The controller is a TCI/FAST 301002 (I think this is the second generation type of TCU from them).
The wiring harness has a lable that says FAST 30216

First the wiring harness. I have multi wire leads that I'm not sure what they do or if they're needed in my retrofit. They are labled:
Trans Comp
Can Link
Dyno

I have individual wires. They are labled:
Cancel OD
Brake light
Cal A/B

I also have a question regarding the yoke. Will my TH400 yoke work or does it depend on the type of output shaft on the 80e? The yoke that was on it was the non-slip type that was bolted into the back of he output shaft.

More questions will follow, I'm sure. Thanks in advance.

[oestek]

Here's the link to the quick start guide - maybe your answers are in here.

http://www.tciauto.com/Base/files/PD...ationGuide.pdf

[critter]

I've got that. I do appreciate the link. What I'm trying to understand is what I need doing this swap into a vintage car.

For instance, I know I don't have CAN links so I can ignore that but what's the Cal A/B do? Is that how I can set up switchable "calibrations" and if so, how is that wired?

[BigVin]

I've got that. I do appreciate the link. What I'm trying to understand is what I need doing this swap into a vintage car.

For instance, I know I don't have CAN links so I can ignore that but what's the Cal A/B do? Is that how I can set up switchable "calibrations" and if so, how is that wired?

You don't need the dyno wire. Cal A/B is for performance mode. You run that wire to a switch. A mode is for street driving B mode will step up trans pressure. Its been awhile since I did mine and I made a few calls to TCI but it was easy. You also need a TPS if it's carbed. I also think you have to get a different yoke and cut the drive shaft. It sounds like a lot of work but it is worth it.

[critter]

Thanks, BigVin. I have the TPS ready to go since it is a carbed car. I think I can use my TH400 yoke but I'm checking into that. I spoke to the drive shaft shop yesterday and shouldn't have any problems there.

So do I have to use the brake light or cancel OD wires?

[BigVin]

Thanks, BigVin. I have the TPS ready to go since it is a carbed car. I think I can use my TH400 yoke but I'm checking into that. I spoke to the drive shaft shop yesterday and shouldn't have any problems there.

So do I have to use the brake light or cancel OD wires?

I Can't remember which one I used I do know this the instructions SUCK I called them so many times I put them on my speed dial. I did get it all sorted out and happy with the results. Keep calling them. I hope this helps
BIGVIN

[Steve Chryssos]

Trans Comp: Plugs into yer laptop
Can Link: Connects to other FAST devices. I don't think this applies to you.
Dyno

I have individual wires. They are labled:
Cancel OD: For Ford installs
Brake light: Don't use. Unnecessary since your lock up is determined by speed
Cal A/B: Don't use. Unnecessary for our cars. Good for applications like towing where a large differential exists between the two modes. I.e. Towing (weight), snow, etc. For our cars, dual modes are fairly useless since the tables can be varied based on throttle position. For example a map can be written that is fairly soft at 0-20% tps and more radical from 30% to WOT. The curve does not need to be linear.

[critter]

Thanks a ton, Steve.

I'll be calling you soon when I get headed forward on the paddles. I know it's taking forever but things stacked up on me.

[critter]

My TH400 yoke has splines all the way, no counter bore. Can this be used as is?

[Jake's Performance]

Chris,
It can be used, see how far it fits into the trans.

I got swamped today. I talked to the converter builder, we need to reconfigure it for the adapter plate. It needs stands added for the mounting as well as an extension on the pilot.

How thick is the TCI plate, 1/4"?

[critter]

Jake, thanks for letting me know. TCI says use the hardened washers provided to correct for the stands. They also say to fit it and see if the original pilot won't pull in and center. If not, Trans Dapt makes a pilot bushing (TD-55) to take up the extra space. Can you get that part?

[critter]

Ordered the bushing but I'm not sure if it will be in by tomorrow. This is slowing my down significantly. Sigh.

Jake, I appreciate the offer on sending the converter back and fixing things but I honestly thing this bushing might deal with the whole mess. I'll keep you posted.

[Jake's Performance]

Definitely keep me updated. Take a pic of the bushing if you can.

Jake

[critter]

I checked shipping just now. It should be in today. I'll have pictures and the part number. I'm working this up for a page on Blocker's Performance web site.

[critter]

And for those keeping score at home, you do NOT need the bushing. We put it in, bolted up the transmission it jammed the converter up against the crank so tight you couldn't turn it. We yanked it out, bolted it up using the washers as per the instructions with TCI's adapter plate and it fit like a glove.

[critter]

Build thread.

http://tinyurl.com/yjza523

[critter]

More questions. If you're using an 11 inch aftermarket converter and not stock how many quarts of fluid should it need?

I have 10 in it and the Lokar dip stick shows over full even after running it for a while. I figured that, since stock is 14, I'd be under the mark, not over full. Maybe I have an air bubble?

Also, if you disconnect the battery should you have to hook up the laptop and flash the TCU with your profile again?

[critter]

Hello? Is this thing on? ;)

I really could use some help here.

The car acts like my old TH400 would act if you were low on fluid. I can drop it in reverse or drive, take my foot off the brake and the car will move. However, if I apply any throttle it's as if the thing is slipping with little to no change in how the car moves.

I've got 13 quarts in it now and the fill for one with a stock converter is 14. Surely it's not low?

Before everyone asks, I have the Lokar firewall mount dipstick and the darned thing has show over full even at the 10 quart level. I don't trust it much at this point. I did check the level after having run the car for a while, with it in park and I did cycle through the gears a few times just for good measure.

Since I have the latest TCI TCU software, I had the ability to do data logging. I did a short log and ran it through a few gears. One thing I notice is that even with turbine speeds (I'm guessing that's referring to the converter) of 1000 rpm the line pressure it is logging is at 60 (PSI, again, guessing 'cause I'm new to the software) never changes. I do see the logged gear changes. I also see the TPS reading change where I hit the gas.

Any suggestions are welcome.

[Steve Chryssos]

Put the rear wheels 2" off ground to take load off drivetrain during testing. No more driving. As for your fluid, I usually start with less fluid and sneak up on it. I don't top off until the fluid is up to full operating temp.

You can warm it up some on jackstands. View the dashboard screen to monitor all functions: Gear changes, TPS, line pressure, vehicle speed. Report after you have results from the dashboard screen. Also if you have an un-calibrated or miscalibrated speedo hooked up, disconnect it from the system.

[critter]

No speedo hooked up, Steve. I've read your previous posts regarding that.

It's still in the lift bay. I can run up there tomorrow night and try to run it again with the car off the ground and the laptop hooked up. Does the data logging record all that. I did see gear changes, TPS, line pressure but not speed. I guess that would be because the wheels weren't turning? Anyway, I sure appreciate the help.