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    Results 1 to 7 of 7
    1. #1
      Join Date
      May 2000
      Posts
      4,151
      Country Flag: United States

      Bleeding LT1 T56 system

      Any advice appreciated. There's no bleeder on the slave.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      La La Land, CA
      Posts
      2,241
      Country Flag: United States
      Get the entire thing out of the car if you can. Make the reservoir the highest point of the system. Wire coat hanger or mechanics wire to hang it off something high up in your garage. You will need to pump by hand the actuator in and out until no bubbles appear in the reservoir cup. It takes some serious hand effort, and might hurt, so I drilled a hole in a block of wood to aid in my pumping. Just put the actuator rod in the hole in the wood and pump away at it.

      Tyler

    3. #3
      Join Date
      May 2000
      Posts
      4,151
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by TitoJones View Post
      Get the entire thing out of the car if you can. Make the reservoir the highest point of the system. Wire coat hanger or mechanics wire to hang it off something high up in your garage. You will need to pump by hand the actuator in and out until no bubbles appear in the reservoir cup. It takes some serious hand effort, and might hurt, so I drilled a hole in a block of wood to aid in my pumping. Just put the actuator rod in the hole in the wood and pump away at it.

      Tyler

      Thanks Tyler.

      The slave is a new unit, and it has a plastic strap on the rod, does that just get discarded?

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,983
      Country Flag: United States
      The plastic strap is simply there to keep the rod in the slave. You can just cut it if you'd like. If you have someone there to help you, have them stay up top and keep and eye on the reservoir level. You can stay under the car and work the slave cylinder by hand until it gets firm. Then install and do it with the pedal in the car to finish. Always making sure the level doesn't drop. Typically, the level will drop a good bit at first while working it by hand but will quickly stabilize and not need anything else the rest of the time. Better safe than sorry though so have someone watching. It takes very little time to get this thing bled once you know to start by working the slave by hand.

      I hope to be doing this on my 79TA before the end of the year. Of course that means, my car will be driving again.
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    5. #5
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Posts
      140
      Normally, the LT1 master/slave setup is bled from the factory, just bolt it in and go. If it doesn't want to release after installation, then you can do the procedure that Tyler mentioned.

      John

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,983
      Country Flag: United States
      Correct but you can buy the slave cylinder separate from the master. Or if you ever have to separate the two you'll have to pump the slave by hand to bleed it.
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    7. #7
      Join Date
      May 2000
      Posts
      4,151
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks.

      I'm using a Wilwood M/C. So it's an unbleed system.




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