Rear mounted return system

[jjump59]

just curious, put my return style regulator in back by tank based on previous discussion. Aeromotive a1000 pump and regulator with their pump controller. When I took the car to get it tuned, guy said regulator would not flow enough. Can anyone else with this type of system tell me how they did theirs and how it works? He wanted me to put bypass hose with two T fittings on either side of regulator to allow fuel to go around regulator and i'm wondering if that is normal.

[camcojb]

just curious, put my return style regulator in back by tank based on previous discussion. Aeromotive a1000 pump and regulator with their pump controller. When I took the car to get it tuned, guy said regulator would not flow enough. Can anyone else with this type of system tell me how they did theirs and how it works? He wanted me to put bypass hose with two T fittings on either side of regulator to allow fuel to go around regulator and i'm wondering if that is normal.

he is incorrect. I have that exact setup at about 900 rwhp and no issues. If you tee around the regulator what will regulate the fuel pressure?

Jody

[cheapthrillz]

he is incorrect. I have that exact setup at about 900 rwhp and no issues. If you tee around the regulator what will regulate the fuel pressure?

Jody

x2

I wouldn't go back to that guy.... Sounds sketch

[jjump59]

well I thought about it after he told me to do it, at first i thought the same thing. but after thinking about it for awhile i came to the conclusion it would still regulate pressure. The regulater will still regulate fuel pressure by opening and returning fuel when it gets to what ever pressure it's set at. Am I wrong about that? I'm trying to figure this out as i can not get the car to start reliably when warm. sometimes it will fire right up and other times it just spins over with no fire. if the car sits for any amout of time over a few days i have to prime the system by turning the key on a couple of times and letting the pump run for the 15 or twenty seconds before it will start. took the car down to get emissions last week drove there, shut it off in lane, then started and pulled into bay, shut it off, when it was time for test no start. pushed it out waited 5 minutes started right back up. drove back around got in line shut it off, started it to go into bay, shut it off and time for test, no start. pushed back out and it started in a few minutes. tried again but lane was pretty full by then and figured it wouldn't start again and i'd be stuck in lane with cars all around and i wouldn't be able to get out so just brought it home.

I put the "t" in like he wanted but wonder if it's part of my starting problem by releasing pressure after i shut the pump off. If you guys have same stuff and don't need the "t" i'll take it out and see what happens.

[camcojb]

well I thought about it after he told me to do it, at first i thought the same thing. but after thinking about it for awhile i came to the conclusion it would still regulate pressure. The regulater will still regulate fuel pressure by opening and returning fuel when it gets to what ever pressure it's set at. Am I wrong about that? I'm trying to figure this out as i can not get the car to start reliably when warm. sometimes it will fire right up and other times it just spins over with no fire. if the car sits for any amout of time over a few days i have to prime the system by turning the key on a couple of times and letting the pump run for the 15 or twenty seconds before it will start. took the car down to get emissions last week drove there, shut it off in lane, then started and pulled into bay, shut it off, when it was time for test no start. pushed it out waited 5 minutes started right back up. drove back around got in line shut it off, started it to go into bay, shut it off and time for test, no start. pushed back out and it started in a few minutes. tried again but lane was pretty full by then and figured it wouldn't start again and i'd be stuck in lane with cars all around and i wouldn't be able to get out so just brought it home.

I put the "t" in like he wanted but wonder if it's part of my starting problem by releasing pressure after i shut the pump off. If you guys have same stuff and don't need the "t" i'll take it out and see what happens.

never run a "T" and never had a start issue related to that. Mine also don't hold pressure, but to test you can get a one-way pressure valve for about $60 or so with an in/out.

I have a minor start issue now with my LS2 but that's due to the efi controller I'm using and the 24X reluctor and only one cam sensor notch on these LS2's. It has to pick up a cam signal before it'll fire which can take a couple seconds at cranking speed, depending on where the notch is in relation to the cam sensor when it shuts off.

Jody

[Jim Nilsen]

I did mine just like Jody and the others have done and I turn my key on and let the pump run the 4seconds the EFI unit tells it to and my pressure goes to 45 psi where I set it and it stays within 1 lb. when running and will bleed all the way back to zero after awhile when I shut it off depending on how the vanes in the pump stop from what I can tell.

I have gotten in and started it right up forgetting to wait and it has started right up anyway, the pressure comes up almost instantly. The system seems to be working flawlessly until the tank gets empty or down to 1.5 inches in the tank. I actually saw the pressure go down to 40 psi for several minutes until it dropped down to 19 psi and wouldn't run. It freeked me out and I thought there was something wrong and then I checked the fuel level.

I am running the return back from the regulator just like the instructions say to do.

I would like to thank everyone again who helped me get thru the transition from the Racepump fuel pump to the electric.

Goodluck