Valve spring replacement

[CurtiSS 69]

Hello All,

My car -'69 Camaro 350 SBC- has a problem with the power flattening out above 5000 rpm, and I suspect the valve springs are starting to give up. I need to replace my valvesprings, and was wondering if anyone has any tricks for getting the keepers from releasing from the retainers? I've always had trouble getting them unstuck, as the keepers really wedge into the taper in the retainer. How hard is it to replace the springs without removing the heads? I would like to avoid this pain and expense if possible, or is it more painfull to replace the valvesprings with the heads on the car?

Regards

CurtiSS 69

[Fast01]

You can replace the springs with the heads on the car, you just have to be careful. There's a few ways it can be done depending on the tools you have. The easiest and safest way is to do it is to use the proper valvespring compressor that's designed to be used with the heads on the car. There are a few different types available that vary widely in price. Of course the pricier ones tend to be easier to work with, but I have a hard time justifying the cost unless you change springs all the time. I'm too lazy to sit and type up detailed instructions, so I found this for you on eHow.com. This was actually supposed to be instructions on replacing valve seals (which you should do while your springs are off), but it's the same process.

Step 1
Disassemble your engine down to where you will have access to the valve spring. You will need to remove the cylinder head cover, the rocker arms and the push rods. You will also need to remove the spark plugs.
<LI itxtvisited="1">Step 2
Valve spring and seal assembly
Next turn on your air compressor and regulate the air 60-90 psi, turn the crankshaft until the cylinder you are replacing valve seals on is on top dead center. Screw the compression gauge hose into the spark plug hole, attach the air compressor hose, your cylinder is now pressurized.
The valves will stay in the closed position as long as the air pressure is holding it up.
<LI itxtvisited="1">Step 3
Valve spring compressor
Using the valve spring tool, compress the valve spring and remove the valve keepers with a magnet. These may be stuck to the valve spring retainer and a little bump with the palm of your hand or a small hammer will jar it loose. Pack towels around the area so you won't lose the keepers into the engine. Remove the spring.
<LI itxtvisited="1">Step 4
Remove the old valve seal with pliers or screwdrivers and replace with a new seal. Reverse procedure to reassemble engine, use the magnet when installing keepers and after removing valve spring compressor tap the top of the valve lightly with a hammer to seat the keepers.

A few things to note are:
If you forget to bring the piston to TDC on the cylinder you're working on and the cylinder loses air pressure, you will drop the valve into the cylinder requiring you to disassemble the engine to retrieve it.

The valve spring tool pictured sucks. I have one and I hate it. It does work, but be careful with it as it has a tendency to slip off the keeper as you tighten it.

If you forget to stuff rags in the oil drain backs and drop a lock, you'll have to disassemble the engine to retrieve it.

Bottom line, if you're careful, take your time and have the right tools, you can save yourself from having to take the whole top end apart.

[yellow heap]

The valve spring compressor I use hooks to the studMoroso 62370
Proform makes a cheaper one- both work great
To lossen locks I use a small plastic dead blow hammer and give them some love(hit the retainer at a few different angles from the top before the air or spring comp.)
AND THE HINT ABOUT TDC before you air it up is CRITICAL

[CurtiSS 69]

Thanks for the tips. I thank you, and my motor thanks you as well. Upper rpm health is an order and some labor away.

Regards

CurtiSS 69