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    Thread: Windage Trays

    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Location
      Chicago
      Posts
      200

      Windage Trays

      Anyone know which style windage tray is best between louvered and screened? I was told louvered was best because it alowed the oil to drain back quicker.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Location
      Sesser, Il
      Posts
      490
      I've read that they both have advantages and disadvantages. Solid trays keep the oil in the lower pan better but also trap oil between the tray and crank. Louvered lets oil drain back quickly but doesn't keep oil in the lower pan as well, either. Also said the louvered acts as a solid pan when the oil draining back fill the louvers.

      I don't think there has is any solid proof either style is better or worse than the other. Depends on usage and rpm among many other variables.
      Doug Gulley

      66 C10 383, AFR 190, Accel SuperRam, Hyd Roller 230*/236* 280XFI, aftermarket T56, *under construction*

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2002
      Location
      San Jose, CA
      Posts
      1,793
      Everyone I know who's serious uses a screened unit.

      I doubt either has any problems
      1971 Camaro, 383 stroker ~500HP,M21 Trans with lightened flywheel. All Sorts of Auto-x Goodness in the Suspension. 12" Brakes ->SOLD

      But ask me about my 2004 STi Auto-x car...

      Just call me Brett

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      What are you doing with it, road course, drag race, what?
      I use simple flat moroso with main studs, a block plate under the oi pump, and a crank scraper. on most easy builds, then go for broke on big builds with scraper and windage built into pan , on more expensive builds.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Location
      Newark, OH, / Concord, NC
      Posts
      497

      From a race engine builder

      The best pan design from a pure hp standpoint is a pan that is as deep as ground clearance will allow and as wide as possible on the passenger side of the engine (allowing for starter clearance ect) The bottom of the pan should then be baffled front to rear and side to side with trap doors to control oil slosh. This will not be a $100 pan (more like $350-$375) but you wouldn't skimp on carb, headers, cooling system ect. Go to a manufacturer that knows how to build real race pans such as Stefs, Moroso ect. they both have catologues online. Be different and get something that works instead of something that is Pro Touring Gucci.




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