Disc-disc. What MC and distribution block?

[73novaguy]

Hey guys,
Been a LONG time since Ive posted here. Ive been doing some custom Harley builds the last couple years (still giving the car love to). So anyways, Ive had, for a few years the 12.25 Wilwood disc kit on the rear of car (before the *******s offered it with internal parking brake so I plan on upgrading to that soon) and I also have stock front disc setup (with plans to upgrade to Wilwoods front kit soon also). My question is, what MC should I run, I wanna get the Wilwood one for looks. I have a 7 inch booster to clear the big block. What are my options for ditching that and just running the MC? Benefits over booster or no booster? And lastly, I have a Wilwood prop valve in the rear line, but I also left that big brass distribution block in it. Am I losing out on performance with that dist block still installed? Thanks guys!

[John Wright]

When I went to the C5 brakes all around, I used the Wilwood master, but I ditched that block and just run a prop valve in the rear line.

I'd ditch that brass block, there may be a pressure regulator or valve built into that thing.

Maybe someone else will chime in and confirm that or not for your Nova.

[PARKERRS]

If it's like a camaro then the proportioning valve is built into the large brass distribution block. Ditch the block and keep the wilwood prop valve. I tried the factory block with my set up but just didn't get enough pressure to suit me at the rear. As far as the booster I would go hydraboost, best money you will ever spend on your brakes.

[Apogee]

Never run more than one proportioning device in any given brake circuit, so ditch one or the other for safety's sake. If you don't want to replumb everything, just pull the rear port from the combination block and remove the proportioning valve (cartridge valve) and then reassemble minus those parts.

Tobin
KORE3

[John Wright]

Thanks Tobin...my gut feeling was correct.

[73novaguy]

Ya, I have that ugly ass distribution block and got reading some other posts talking about removing it. I hate the way it looks in there (like the body lines of the 70's, just not the accessories) so Ive been wanting to take it out. So after I remove the dist block and leave the Wilwood prop valve in the rear line for adjustment, what size master to run for the 4 wheel discs? Keeping in mind I'll be upgrading the front to Wilwoods but leave stock for now. I like the look of less is more so would love to ditch the booster, but my question is on performance. What kind of brake am I going to have with no booster? In terms of pedal feel and actual stopping power? I assume harder pedal due to no vacuum assitance, and roughly same amount of braking. The Hydraboost kits are nice, but pricey!

[John Wright]

M/C Sizing is going to depend on your calipers...so you need to nail that down first...hydraulics are funny about the sizes of the pistons, the amount of fluid that is moving during the stroke and pressure required to make them work correctly at the wheel.

[73novaguy]

I just wanna clean up the MC area as far as looks and function. So if I went manual with my Wilwood 4 piston rears and stock fronts, what size wilwood MC would I be looking for if going manual? And just ditch the stock dist block altogether and run my rear prop valve? Thanks

[John Wright]

As long as your motor makes decent vaccum, you might want to think about keeping the factory booster if this is going to be a street cruiser and not an all out track car. Just saying, give it some thought before redesigning. Going manual usually means locating and drilling a new hole in the brake pedal and you will need a different push rod for the M/C and a few other small considerations to think about.