Racelogic traction?

[ss dave]

Anyone tried or have experience with Racelogic traction control?
I'm spinning and burning. Fun and impresses novices but I want to launch hard.

[ITLBTU]

I've never heard of that until now... Looks cool. I wish I had 2k laying around for this...

[ss dave]

I talked to Rick at the US distributor and he stated that it could be analog controlled 5%, 10% 25% slippage etc. or digital. On/off switch. However in my case, no ABS, I'll need wheel speed sensors which adds to the cost.
Pricey but pretty cool.

[ITLBTU]

I also found this... http://www.moretraction.com/

[Yoda4561]

I'm rather interested in this too, mostly how feasible these systems are for daily drivers on the street. How safe/reliable are they, do they work around corners, etc. It'd be awesome if someone who had this stuff installed in a street driven car could give some insight.

[ss dave]

Those are the questions I wish to have answered by this post. Thank you for specifying my intentions.
In my discussions with Racelogic distributor he mention that they have done numerous installs with no problems.
Still I would like some real experience. Without an ABS system, the unit works by shutting off fuel to the injectors in various combinations.
He stated it doesn't lean out because it shuts off ALL the fuel to that particular injector. Limiting spin at the powerplant level would work, I just want to know how well it works.
At a particular setting he stated you can mash the pedal and it will effectively control your launch.

[ss dave]

The Davis product appears simpler I'll research this a little more. Cool.

[jp455]

Hi Dave,

We actually used that system on the car I was designing/building and it worked great! We used a Viper V10 in that which needed the addition of a module for the 10 cylinders since the race logic is only set up for V8s or less out of the box. Other than that it was very straight forward. Theres two versions, a digital one and an analogue one. The difference is not that one is variable and the other on off. The difference is that with the digital one you can do all the settings directly on the control panel, where the analogue one you have to plug in a laptop. Also, the digital one has finner adjustment. The analogue one is 5, 10, 15% etc, where the digital one you can do 1,2,3,4,5% etc. Honestly that makes no difference, no way a human will be able to tell the difference between 5% and 6% slip. But it IS very nice that you don't have to plug in a laptop to adjust and set it. The setup is super easy too...all you do is drive staright a certain distance, then make a U turn of a certain radius, drive back, and thats it! I posted a few pics of the project on here...

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...448#post572448

Hope that helps!

[preston]

I don't have any experience with it (yet) but I've researched and kept an eye out on the forums for anyone that has used it. Pretty universal feedback is that it works and works well, but isn't exactly turn key - it does take some tuning, and as car parameters change you may need to revisit it. Also, I know of one guy who had a box crap out and cause him all sorts of issues until he figured out it was the racelogic box - which isn't an indictment as anything can fail and the more blocks you put in your chain the harder it is to troubleshoot. But generally the reputation of these things is good and I look forward to putting one on my car someday. Adding the wheel sensors and the cost is the biggest hurdle.

Of course a modern powertrain engineer will tell you that Throttle by wire with the computer TC controlling the throttle rather than trying to cut spark and fuel is a far superior way to go. Also the racelogic stuff only takes wheel spin into account I believe, whereas a more sophisticated system can use many inputs including ground speed, engine variabels, and any other signals present in the ECU.

Given that RaceLogic costs $2k or whatever (I think that was with their wheel sensors, its cheaper without it) if you are looknig at buying a new ECU it may pencil out to buy the Motec800 - This box costs $4500, but includes 3 dimensional traction control and drive by wire ability (as well as all of the other capabilities of a high end ECU). You can buy the LS2 pedal and throttle body for less than $1k I've heard. So this is another path to much more sophisticated TC. The motec could also do spark/fuel interrupt as well, if you don't want a wire throttle.

[ss dave]

I'll check it out. Thanks. Since the motor is a DBW already. Currently I have a Speartech system with a stand alone Compushift.