Project BLUEprint, 1965 Falcon

[Bjkadron]

Those are AWESOME rod-ends! I considered aluminum, but with my budget I only can afford one set, so they are steel.

[Bryce]

Those are AWESOME rod-ends! I considered aluminum, but with my budget I only can afford one set, so they are steel.

only 30 bucks each. I know it adds up. But my motto is do it once. My time is worth more. I would rather save for what I really want than buy something twice.

Plus these rodends are really top quality. The presicion is perfect, I definetly got what I paid for.

[bonecrrusher]

As this guy says - do it right the first time! LOL!

[chunger]

Whoa - Sting has really been working out lately.

[DynoDon]

As this guy says - do it right the first time! LOL!

That show cracks me up. i wonder how much stuff he says when he finds the crappy work they have to edit out for TV?

[Bjkadron]

only 30 bucks each. I know it adds up. But my motto is do it once. My time is worth more. I would rather save for what I really want than buy something twice.

Plus these rodends are really top quality. The precision is perfect, I definitely got what I paid for.

Yes, Same here, The ones I got are very nice, and they were a little over half that. The 7075-T6 ones were only about $2 more a piece. But for stuff like steering and suspension, I kinda like the steel. Am I right in thinking they have a better resistance to fatigue than the aluminum? That and the plasticity before breaking is a good safety net.

Are your Teflon sealed?

[Bryce]

Aluminum will work harden and will stretch more before failure. Its a more ductile material than steel. Mine are teflon sealed.

If Im not breaking....... Im not trying (or its too heavy). Haha.

[Bjkadron]

Ok.. I knew about the work hardening, I just wasn't sure about the ductility.

Therein lies the difference in our philosophies. If I break stuff.. I have a lot of downtime until I save my money back up. So I try to design out the week spots before I build it and leave myself a good safe margin for error.

[Bryce]

Ok.. I knew about the work hardening, I just wasn't sure about the ductility.

Therein lies the difference in our philosophies. If I break stuff.. I have a lot of downtime until I save my money back up. So I try to design out the week spots before I build it and leave myself a good safe margin for error.

Haha, I was kinda kidding. I hope I dont break anything and I have made sure If anything fails it wont be catostraphic.

[Bryce]

Crappy gloomy weather in San Diego has made this an unproductive weekend.

I ordered some more hardware for the watts cradle and I think I finalized my design. Then I had another thought. I might decide to make the axle mount of the watts link a single shear to make thing lighter. SO if i do that I might as well make the bell crank a single shear at the link attach point. Well more calculations will be done to determine if that is a viable solution.

[Bjkadron]

That is a lot more stress...

[Bryce]

That is a lot more stress...

Agreed, but you will not see any fastener failure at those loads in single shear. Assuming you use a good fastener. I am more worried about the moment applied to the mounting plate and bellcrank plate. This is what I will do calulations on.

[Bjkadron]

Agreed, but you will not see any fastener failure at those loads in single shear. Assuming you use a good fastener. I am more worried about the moment applied to the mounting plate and bellcrank plate. This is what I will do calulations on.

That is more what I was talking about too.

[Bryce]

Hmmmmm..................


So I just realized the current way I have my watts bell crank and cradle designed I will not be able to make quick changes on roll center height. The 3/4" bolt I am using as the pivot point of the bellcrank will not be able to be removed with the cradle installed. The bolt would hit the rear end. Well crap I guess I need to go back to the drawing board and redesign everything. Crap.

My original plan was to make the cradle threaded and have the bell crank in front of the cradle. Now I might need to make the bellcrank on the back side of the cradle. But that put the links about 8 inches behind the axle housing. I dont think I like that.

So maybe the solution is to make the bell crank threaded and run the bolt forward. This would require the pivot point to be on the cradle.

[GRNOVA]

I have mine on the front and it is adjustable.

[Bjkadron]

Well, Look on the bright side. At least you noticed that now instead of when you were under the car at an autocross trying to change it!

[Twentyover]

Hmmmmm..................


So I just realized the current way I have my watts bell crank and cradle designed I will not be able to make quick changes on roll center height. The 3/4" bolt I am using as the pivot point of the bellcrank will not be able to be removed with the cradle installed. The bolt would hit the rear end. Well crap I guess I need to go back to the drawing board and redesign everything. Crap.

My original plan was to make the cradle threaded and have the bell crank in front of the cradle. Now I might need to make the bellcrank on the back side of the cradle. But that put the links about 8 inches behind the axle housing. I dont think I like that.

So maybe the solution is to make the bell crank threaded and run the bolt forward. This would require the pivot point to be on the cradle.

Maybe a slot instead of distict holes, the have a set of staggered holes so you can walk the yellow backup plate (and the bellcrank) up and down vertically.

[Bryce]

I have mine on the front and it is adjustable.

I like the fays2 stuff. But with my setup I cant use his. I talked with him a few times and he a great guy with a great product. If you dont mind can you take a picture of the front side of the watts system. I am back to the drawing board on mine and need a little inspiration.

[Bryce]

Well, Look on the bright side. At least you noticed that now instead of when you were under the car at an autocross trying to change it!

HAHA, for sure! I hope I would have noticed it when I went to install it and said "F&%K".

[Bryce]

Maybe a slot instead of distict holes, the have a set of staggered holes so you can walk the yellow backup plate (and the bellcrank) up and down vertically.

That would work, but it doesnt solve my problem of having the bolt go in from the backside. I will draw something up tomorrow and think about this.