How to get the front lower?

[LS1NOVA]

71 Nova
has stock frame, SC&C stage 2 plus kit. (adjustable uppers, xtall upper ball joints, and bump steer kit. Stock spindles.

I have 2" drop Hotchkis springs, but for right now just have threaded rod in its place to set it at ride height without the engine in it.
I have about 1 1/2" between the bump stop on lower control arm and subframe.

Id like to go an 1" lower but dont see how its possible without changing the spindle and dropped spindles would probably cause wheel interference as I have 5 1/4 bs.

Any suggestions?

[Serpa69]

You could get a half inch out of it by changing the body bushings

[LS1NOVA]

4L80E is already very tight though

[cheapthrillz]

Wow, it looks pretty damn good as is....

If it were me, I'd raise the back just a hair. I know that sounds bass ackwards on this site tho.

Good luck

[79T/Aman]

sounds like physics say it's as low as it will go without surgery

[LS1NOVA]

Found this post by Marcus:

As usual there`s a LOT more to this than meets the eye. The LCA bumpstops are an integral part of the suspension and they have rate,just like a spring. They are in fact elastomer springs. Their rate is progressive,that`s why they`re usually conical. Cut the top off and the rate becomes much less progressive and the ride much more harsh when you contact them. The more you lower a car the more critical the LCA stops become,especially with the QA1 "coil overs". We get a lot of calls on those having coil bind issues at low ride heights. Removing the LCA bumpstops or trimming them way back is just asking for trouble with them. It should also be pointed out that since most of us on PT.com are more concerned with performance than "laying frame" and such nonsense that it`s quite possible to lower the car too much and ruin it`s performnce. One pretty good rule of thumb based on basic front end geometry is that you never want the pivot axis of the lower ball joints higher than the inboard pivot axis of the lower control arms. I didn`t say the arms have to be level. It doesn`t matter what angle the arms look like they`re at,the pivot/pickup points dictate the suspension`s geometry not the arms. Go past this point and the geometry goes wacky and the roll center starts to dart all over the place. Also bear in mind that the front end will dive under heavy braking so give yourself a little extra height to compensate for this,the last thing you need is your roll center going haywire when you`re hammering the brakes and throwing the car hard into a corner. If you can`t lower the car to your liking with the QA1s before you cross that point drop spindles or tall lower ball joints are possible solutions but neither are generally a great alternative on a `71 F body.
Modern progressive rate jounce bumpers can be a great tuning aid. GM spent millions to tune them for use on lowered applications like the S10 ZQ8 but we can buy them for $10 ea. They`re actually intended to contact the frame much of the time and have a much more progressive rate than old school rubber snubbers. Consider them before you cut the stock rubber snubbers up or replace the them with short poly ones which give you even less control over what precious little bump travel is left on a lowered car. Mark SC&C

[LS1NOVA]

So Im going to leave it as is and get some Gm 15989674 bumpstops.

[cheapthrillz]

Your springs aren't progressive rate are they? Like I said earlier, it's not too far off and doesn't look bad as is IMO. Maybe you could cut a 1/4 coil or something if needed?

[LS1NOVA]

The springs arent in it right now. Im going to look at my lower control arm pivot points to decide if I even SHOULD go any lower. Ill install and cut the springs later after the engine etc is in.

[Marcus SC&C]

Generally you should wait until you get the whole car together (that means radiator, antifreeze, oil everything) and sitting on the ground, see what the actual ride height is and then tweak it if necessary. In this case the cheap way out would be to trim the springs. It`s effective but if you cut too much off you can`t put it back on again. The odd shape of the upper spring seats makes it a little hit or miss too.
Or, if it`s in the budget, you could add a set of our SPC tubular lower A arms to the package. Among other things they have modular lower spring seats that allow you to drop the car up to 2". Using the various SPC spring seat options you can also go up as much as 1.75" for a total range of about 3.75"! They`re sorta a magic bullet for ride height issues. Mark SC&C

[cheapthrillz]

Generally you should wait until you get the whole car together (that means radiator, antifreeze, oil everything) and sitting on the ground, see what the actual ride height is and then tweak it if necessary. In this case the cheap way out would be to trim the springs. It`s effective but if you cut too much off you can`t put it back on again. The odd shape of the upper spring seats makes it a little hit or miss too.
Or, if it`s in the budget, you could add a set of our SPC tubular lower A arms to the package. Among other things they have modular lower spring seats that allow you to drop the car up to 2". Using the various SPC spring seat options you can also go up as much as 1.75" for a total range of about 3.75"! They`re sorta a magic bullet for ride height issues. Mark SC&C

There's your answer.... Spend more money!!!!! Don't ya love it!

J/K and def not knocking sc&c

[JRouche]

Hey Nathan, after looking at the pics of your car she looks pretty darn good!! I personally like the height you have mocked up. And I agree with Mark, wait till you get all the weight on the car and see how she sits. You may actually get a surprise and it sits too low. Looking good, JR....

[MrQuick]

sits perfect....you'll see when you get it all together.



vince

[strtlegal]

Just curious, but how close is your wheel to your tie rod? I just switched from a rack to a Lee box and notice my 5.25" are touching the tie rods...Thanks

[LS1NOVA]

Right now I have 1/4 spacers in there, otherwise they touch. I may space the steering arms in slightly to remove the wheel spacers.

[strtlegal]

so thats putting you at 5" bsp? which makes sense even at that bsp they seam to touch a tad...you running a 8 or7" wheel

[LS1NOVA]

Yes, equates out to 5" BS on a 8" wheel. About 1/4" clearance on the tie rod end then. With a stock tie rod end, I could take the spacer out but the SC&C stage 2 plus has the bumpsteer corrected ones that are lower.

[Hotchkis]

Have to agree with Marcus about finishing the car first. Mockup is all well and good, but we probably get 10-20 calls per week from people trying to dial-in ride height before the car is completely put together. Oil, coolant, accessories, bumper, all that stuff adds up and makes a difference. We'd start by completing the car, driving it and letting it settle before you start trimming springs. Like grandpa the carpenter used to say, measure twice, cut once.

[LS1NOVA]

BUT, there are NO springs in the front now. I was just trying to get is physically lower and ran into trouble with bumpstop clearance etc etc.

[strtlegal]

Yes, equates out to 5" BS on a 8" wheel. About 1/4" clearance on the tie rod end then. With a stock tie rod end, I could take the spacer out but the SC&C stage 2 plus has the bumpsteer corrected ones that are lower.

Man thats weird because I mocked up what a 5" bsp would be in comparison to my 5.5" bsp and the tie rod still hits the rim, barley but it does. Im thinking that spacing the steering arms a tad is my answer..