Brake Master Cylinder Bleeding

[David Pozzi]

I've never had any problems after bleeding full stroke. I think the master cyls with the sealed lids are way less prone to having crud inside to cause problems.
No problem going full stroke with any kind of decent condition MC, especially a new one.

If your metering valve was bad, that would allow air in the system. Also if your lines are not sealing or seated right. Try pumping the pedal and holding down on it for a few minutes, a leak may show up if you pressurize the system.

The metering valve is only of benefit on super slippery surfaces like ice and with auto trans and the choke is on high idle with very light pressure on the brake pedal. Once line pressure is above 40 psi, the valve does nothing anyway.

Here's a quote:
"Metering Valve: This valve, used only on disc/drum systems, is variously called a “pressure regulator valve”, “metering valve”, or “hold-off valve”, depending on which GM publication you have.

The round metering valve is inserted in the system between the front master cylinder outlet (which feeds the front discs) and the front chamber of the distribution block. Its function is to hold off any fluid flow to the front disc calipers until the valve sees 30-40 psi of pressure; this ensures that the rear drum shoes have expanded into contact with the rear drums before the front disc calipers begin clamping on the rotors, balancing initial brake application to avoid the disconcerting front end “dive” associated with “front brakes first” under light brake application.

It also prevents a disconcerting situation which can occur (without the valve) on ice or snow under light brake application (like at a stop sign or red light) where the front wheels are stopped by the disc brakes, but the drum brakes on the rear wheels aren’t yet fully engaged and the rear wheels continue to rotate under idle torque, causing the rear of the car to move sideways."

Bleed it with two people, depress the pedal and close the bleeder, lift pedal, repeat.