Getting ready for first startup

**rockdogz** · 03-21-2005

I'm getting ready for the first firing of my Ram Jet 502 crate engine, and wanted to run some things past you guys to make sure I don't forget anything or screw up the motor

1. The distributor wouldn't clear the firewall with the module wires coming out the back, so I rotated it about 90 degrees counter clockwise so that the wires run towards the passenger side. I can just move the plug wires over on the distributer cap and be ok, right?

2. What should the timing be set to?

3. I'm pretty sure a crate engine isn't broken in, but is there any recommended way to break it in? I remember that with regular hydraulic lifters you need to run it at varying RPMs above 2000 for the first 20 minutes or so to break them in, but it's got hydraulic roller lifters, so this isn't necessary right?

4. I'm mostly looking for leaks and checking everything out (it's not drivable yet) so is there anything else I need to make sure to do/not to do?

Thanks!!

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**WELTERRACER** · 03-21-2005

There should be no break in on your roller cam..

Yes you will be O.K. with rotating the wires..

Im not sure on the timing, but i would guess in the 32-34 degree, total timing at 3500rpms..

**rockdogz** · 03-22-2005

Ok, well it turned over!!

Or more like :bsjerk:

A fuel leak kept me from getting it to fire however. The main fuel line is leaking. It's an AN connection, and no matter how much I tightened it it kept dripping. What should I do - take the fitting completely apart and put it back on? It's leaking at the threads - you're not supposed to put any sealing compound, right? What about anti-sieze - maybe it won't tighten enough?

**ProdigyCustoms** · 03-23-2005

AN fittings seal on the tube inside, not the threads. If it is leaking with anything more then a firm tighten, you have the wrong male fitting.
As far as starting and timing, with the motor on TDC, I always point the distributor dead at number one, then advance the distributor a quarter inch or so. Most distributors have about 20 degrees total advance in them. I always have a timing light hooked up and look for something in the 14 to 20 degree range immediately upon fire up. This will get the timing close enough to stay running so I can tweak the carb, let it burn off assembly lubes and oils, come up to temperature, etc.
When I get it warmed up a bit and running decent, at a reasonable idle, I then reverse time the motor with a advance light to 35 degrees or so, usually at 3000. Then I whack the throttle from 3000 to see if the timing moves anymore. If all is good, it is time to take it to the street and she what she's got!

**rockdogz** · 03-23-2005

This is it right here... sure seems like the right fit, but darn if it doesn't leak like a sieve...

**paul67** · 03-23-2005

will the pipe still turn when you have tighten it up looks to me if the nut is bottoming out before it tightens the flange up
paul67

**rockdogz** · 03-23-2005

No, it gets tight before it runs out of thread

**camcojb** · 03-23-2005

Is the flare on the hardline 45 degrees or 37 degrees? Take a look at the tool you used to flare it. Most tubing flares are 45 degrees but the an stuff needs 37 degrees.

Jody

**rockdogz** · 03-23-2005

I didn't actually create the flare, the hardline came with the crate engine. Looks the same on both ends but not sure if I'd be able to tell if it was off just by looking at it.

**rockdogz** · 03-23-2005

Ok, I had someone look at it and they said it wasn't the same flaring - the hardline was like 45 degree or whatever and the blue elbow is AN-6. Now I need to figure out how to make the two meet up...

**rockdogz** · 03-23-2005

Do you think that Russell part number 639200 will work from here?

**Jims78elky** · 03-24-2005

Yes that 639200 will work,its a compression fitting,so you will have to cut
off the "flare" on the hard line..then connect it,being that it has its self
crimping type fitting ring in the cap,that will seal it up!

Hope this helps! Camaro is looking good!

**rockdogz** · 03-24-2005

Thanks.... Do I just need that one part number, or do you have to order the tube nut and sleeve separately too?

**Jims78elky** · 03-24-2005

Iam not totally sure,i think its all that you need,i would give there tec-line
a call just to be sure! Be sure to clean that end of the hard line,blow out
any little scraps that might get it,cut it with a good tube cutter,like a good one from a plumbing store,a hacksaw is asking for trouble..

I would do a test run after it was assembled with water..run a garden hose to a adapter,then when your done blow it all out with comp-air
(really good) might save you some time..and clean-up.

Just keep it going.don't be in a hurry at this point,take your time and be
methodical about your work..I know is sounds stupid,but when your this
close your brain goes limp,i almost started my engine in the elky with no
OIL!! until i saw the full bottles on the work table.lol,man i need a drink!

**ProdigyCustoms** · 03-24-2005

Nice catch Jody.

**rockdogz** · 03-24-2005

Right, thanks Frank for pointing out that Jody did indeed identify the problem... thanks Jody, Jim, Frank, and everyone else for your help!

**rockdogz** · 03-26-2005

Heh, well the fuel leak wasn't the only problem... the distributor wasn't in the right spot and had to be moved about 40 degrees... But she's up and running!

For some reason the guages don't have power so I need to get that figured out next, but I will try to post a video... sounds mean!!

**rockdogz** · 03-26-2005

Startup Video

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Getting ready for first startup