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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      Quote Originally Posted by jackfrost View Post
      just use your multimeter and starting moving backwards from the dash to the battery. there are only so many points there where the circuit could be broken.

      make sure you have a good body ground, and the dash is grounded to the body well.
      It's the wires straight from the fusebox, they got no power at all, and there is no broken fuse(s) "/

      Well, I see hope, my wipers are working again now, installed a window/wiper-washer : )

      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      dayton, oh
      Posts
      952
      I'm assuming the fusebox has power if other things are working?

      make sure the fuse contacts are not corroded, and test the fuses with your multimeter just to make sure they're good. i've had fuses that looked good but weren't.

      if all else fails, you might need to pull the fuse box to find the break.

      did you check grounds?
      dave.t
      86 Olds 442 - Project If It Ain't Broke, Take It Apart and Fix It
      74 Javelin AMX - stocker

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      I don't know which grounds I should check... : p
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Posts
      48
      Quote Originally Posted by Andreasu View Post
      I don't know which grounds I should check... : p
      I'd go with all of them...

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      Finaly got power to the dash again (:
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      Update:
      Wires done the right way now, no fancy fast-connection units, Tin "welded" now (Ignore the blue "Clumps", been removed now)


      Dash back in (again):


      Anyone got a idea what this could be?






      Just had to : D
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      Hey Andreas,
      Do you still have the AC parts, I emailed/pmed you about pics of what you took off as I might want the parts and may even be able to swap parts for them as I am getting started on my 77 Monza.
      OH yeah if you want I have a brand new set of metallic brake pads(upgrade from stock ones) for 76 up Hbody(monza,and other brands) for vented rotors, so if you want spares let me know I have 5 lug s10 conversion on my car,,, ill post up a pic or 2 later.

      Lee Abel
      Burns City, Indiana.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      The A/C Brackets are already sold.

      I'm going to change the 4 lug into 5 lug aswell, Just need a donor car for the swap : )
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136

      hehe ;p

      Front suspension is in a "bad" condition, well, The bushings atleast ;p




      This seems abit like a "Redneck" fix, but could be OEM:


      I love the S-Bar (:


      Test fitted a 195/15" BMW wheel (I think). better than the old 13" ones : )
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      Quote Originally Posted by MonzaRacer View Post
      Hey Andreas,
      Do you still have the AC parts, I emailed/pmed you about pics of what you took off as I might want the parts and may even be able to swap parts for them as I am getting started on my 77 Monza.
      OH yeah if you want I have a brand new set of metallic brake pads(upgrade from stock ones) for 76 up Hbody(monza,and other brands) for vented rotors, so if you want spares let me know I have 5 lug s10 conversion on my car,,, ill post up a pic or 2 later.

      Lee Abel
      Burns City, Indiana.

      Would love some pics : )
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      Got an nice idea.

      What about making a real cool Plate or something to cover up almost everything in the engine bay?

      Looked around and saw some nice examples.
      - http://wallpaperblog.files.wordpress...e_bay_1600.jpg
      - http://media.photobucket.com/image/e.../EngineBay.jpg

      Etcetc...

      So, I made a rough scetch in paint :


      Something like that had been cool, What do you guys think?
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136

      hmm..

      Ok, been looking around and I think i'll keep the 305 V8 in the car, because If I put in a 350, I might not get it registered, Norway and our rules...

      So, Why not tweak it?
      Here's my idea:
      - New Rocker-arms (Roller)
      - A aggresive cam and new lifters
      - Air-Gap intake with a edelbrock 600 carb
      - Monza headers and X-flow/pipes
      - Change out the short water pump with a long one and a new ALU radiator
      - New pulleys and brackets
      - Maybe new Alu. pistons
      - MSD Hei Dist.
      - New bolts and a New harmonic balancer
      - New oil pan, oil pump, Timing chain (kit), alternator, oil- and air filter, gaskets and topped off with new valve covers.

      The only problem is the Engine mounts, They are worn out and I can't seem to find replacement parts "/

      Anyone know if I even can get new motor mounts to it? Atleast the bushings....
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      Or plan B:

      Tweak a 307 : )
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      dayton, oh
      Posts
      952
      Quote Originally Posted by Andreasu View Post
      Ok, been looking around and I think i'll keep the 305 V8 in the car, because If I put in a 350, I might not get it registered, Norway and our rules...
      are they really going to know the difference between two American small block Chevies?
      dave.t
      86 Olds 442 - Project If It Ain't Broke, Take It Apart and Fix It
      74 Javelin AMX - stocker

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      292
      i really dig this project! you should def. go with the 350 though. externally it'll look identical to the 305 and it's a much much better motor.

      random question; is that what a monza spyder normally looks like?! the word "spyder" is typically used to describe a convertible or targa. just a random thought!

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      Quote Originally Posted by ill steez View Post
      i really dig this project! you should def. go with the 350 though. externally it'll look identical to the 305 and it's a much much better motor.

      random question; is that what a monza spyder normally looks like?! the word "spyder" is typically used to describe a convertible or targa. just a random thought!
      Don't have a 350, Well, The 307 ain't actually mine either but : p

      The spyder looks like that, It's an regular monza that came with the "Spyder" pack. Different Interior (Spyder emblems in the steeringwheel, Etc), The spyder layout on the hood and spyder emblems on the exsterior.

      I think a tweaked 307 will do just enough for a first car ^^ Don't wanna have a car I can't drive : ) We just got an 1980 camaro with a 396 BBC (I think) with 500-600 Hp, that's just way to powerfull, So I considered it and the 1980 Camaro is almost like a Monza, just bigger. So, a drugged 307 would do the same as a 350 in a bigger car : )
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      dayton, oh
      Posts
      952
      most vendors have a mild upgrade came like a 204/214 that will improve performance over stock, but is still completely docile. some people call it an "RV" cam
      dave.t
      86 Olds 442 - Project If It Ain't Broke, Take It Apart and Fix It
      74 Javelin AMX - stocker

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      Quote Originally Posted by jackfrost View Post
      most vendors have a mild upgrade came like a 204/214 that will improve performance over stock, but is still completely docile. some people call it an "RV" cam

      Well, I have to decide on the cam After I decide on the block : p

      Engine coming apart, Pistons out, just the Crank, flywheel and the timing gear on the crank left (Tried to take it off, i failed.)




      This is how the piston rings looked like:

      Maybe time to get some new ones...

      Been thinking (alot) and I want to bore it 0.30, Then it becomes a 347 5.7l (I think) instead of the 307 5.0l. New forged/hyp. alu pistons also (3.905")

      the question is, There are no such thing as 347 head gaskets (?), So do I have to use 307 or 350 Gaskets?
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      dayton, oh
      Posts
      952
      use gaskets for whichever heads you use. I would recommend getting 350 heads, otherwise you'll still have the small combustion chamber and your quench will suck.

      make sure there is enough meat in the block to bore it that much. a good machine shop will be able to tell.
      dave.t
      86 Olds 442 - Project If It Ain't Broke, Take It Apart and Fix It
      74 Javelin AMX - stocker

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      Quote Originally Posted by jackfrost View Post
      use gaskets for whichever heads you use. I would recommend getting 350 heads, otherwise you'll still have the small combustion chamber and your quench will suck.

      make sure there is enough meat in the block to bore it that much. a good machine shop will be able to tell.

      I got 2 engines I can take the heads off (Both 350's). Can't use the 350 blocks, because one got rust in the cylinder walls and the other one got bad crankshaft bearings.

      The one got 882 Heads, 1.92, From 1968-1969. That's not Oem, 'cause the engine is a new'er Van motor I think. It got guideplates for some reason aswell.

      Got a buyer on my 305 aswell, that means more cash for the 307 (347 to come). I got around 1225 $ to use at the moment (7 500 NOK).

      Sadly enough, to bore the engine in Norway is expensive as hell "/ like 110-130 $ for each sylinder + changing the Cam bearings + Clean the engine (I can maybe do that myself.) But I don't know the exact price yet, maybe it will be affordable for me to bore it.
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

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