Need some input on oil cooling system

[yody]

I am putting my oil cooling system together, so far i am thinking of using
Milodon 8 qt road race pan with 5 trap doors, but no dipstick provision
milodon overpriced pickup
Milodon windage tray and pump baffle
Earls sandwich plate type oil cooler 19 row, 5 7/8" tall 13" wide
10AN line
heres where i am not sure, if the pan permits me to keep the filter in teh stock location i am thinking of using an
Earls thermostatic sandwich plate adapter 160 partway open 180 fully open....0r
some kind of adapter plate without thermo, and a remote filter
any input?

[CarlC]

I fought this battle last year.

The cleanest route is to use a sandwich plate that keeps the filter in the stock location. Due to header fitment this could not be done. Some measurements and/or mockup will be required to determine your needs.

If the filter will not fit in the stock location, the best setup I could find is this http://www.cvproducts.com/cv/product...=cv74&brandID=

This mount is available in several different filter types, I chose CV746 with a 13/16" thread mount (Chevy).

For thermostats, if you cannot use the sandwich type again CV is the place. This is the one I'll be installing http://www.cvproducts.com/cv/product...v1031&brandID=

It has a 215* element, perfect for street and track driving. Currently, with no thermostat, the oil does not get hot enough for street driving (160*). There's more plumbing involved with this setup but if there's not other choice..... I could not find a picture on CV's website for this part. If you don't already have a CV catalog you may want to order a complete set. They have some super nice components at very reasonable prices.

[yody]

what kind of oil pump should i use? i will be using a high pressure no tmatter what, but what about high volume? also whats an ideal oil temp on teh street?

[chicane67]

A working temp of around 215 to 220* F for street operation is the target. Basically sumed up, the rule of thumb is to run your oil temperature around, and within, 40 degrees F of the coolent temperature. So, you run 180* H2O.....220* oil is on target.

Dont really know why you think that you have to run a high pressure pump, but I would be interested in your thoughts on that. You will need to cool the oil more so with a high pressure pump from the get go.

I would most likely run a Melling from either your local engine builder or Moroso or Canton or Avaid......any of them can give you a pump that has been 'worked' correctly for pressure balancing and working clearences (cover and gear).

I myself like the heat transfer cooling directly into the engine coolant, but then you would have to pop for a real radiator and some new fangeled AN stuff.......

I guess things could be worse.

Slappy.

Mr. Overkill.

Cracker.

[yody]

yes, i am runnign a mellings standard pump with the high pressure spring and the clearance between the gears and cover has been checked. So i guess there is no need for the high volume. I took it that there was a pressure drop when running all of the extra lines and capacity with teh cooler? It looks as if the milodon pan has a cut out in the wing so the oil filter can drop straight down. We will have to see if htat is true or not, if so that will make my life much easier. I already have a ron davis aluminum radiator with twin electric fans etc.. so i don't want to go with a new radiator which i assume you would reccomend a crossflow? Also it looks like the earls thermostat wouldnt work for me since it opens at 180 degrees. I will have about $1000 in AN fittings and hoses in my car so you don thave to tell me about new fangled AN stuff!! On a side note, i was suprised to hear from a rep from milodon tell me that he liked the tray over the windage screen and that, that is what they put in all of hte circle track stuff. What do you think about my cooler size? would it hurt to go a little smaller? or is that a good size?
p.s.
if i had to choose a name from those three i think "cracker" fits you bets

[CarlC]

Tom's referring to an in-radiator oil cooler. The heat exchanger is in the radiator tank. Check out my website for details.

Plumbing the in-radiator is no more expensive than a remote cooler. It does however, IMO, help keep the number of seperate components down. Fitment, bracketry, and ease of maintenance starts to become a hassle with the addition of new components.

[yody]

yeah, i remember when you did yours. I was actually thinking of running one before but decided against it.

[yody]

Well the good news is that with the new pan i can drop my oil filter straight down. THat really helps, so i can use a sandwich adapter with built in thermo. Bad news is that my header tube on the drive side is going to totally be in the way of the wing on the oil pan;

I think the easiest way will be to notch the wing of the pan so the header will clear. Wonder how easy it will be to put the headers in? anyone know of a decent sandwich adapter with a thermo, i will look wiht cv right now