my booster is too big

[wmhjr]

I'll take the motor off your hands for no charge. Heck I'll even pay for the shipping myself.

Can you "clearance" your valve covers? Maybe go with some paintable stamped ones rather than cast or chromed.

Thanks, I'll think about it

Can't clearance the valve covers. They are machined billet covers but to be honest it looks as though due to the lift, etc, there just probably will not be enough room. I really won't know for sure until I drop the body back down but I measured prior to disassembly and it's real unlikely that it's going to fit. We'll see what happens. I really would like some more advice, but so far I'm leaning toward a Hydratech unit if this turns out to be reality. I don't want to experiment too much with the brakes.

[parsonsj]

Good question.

Set aside the lines. They don't care, and 3/16" vs 1/4" doesn't really matter all that much.

To figure out what you want to know requires you to provide the bore sizes of the pistons in your calipers, swept area of the rotor (or pad size), and diameter of the outer edge of the pad where it touches the rotor. Things you can do without an aftermarket brake setup would include changing the bore size of the master, changing the pedal ratio, and more aggressive pads (and shoes, I guess).

I assume these are floating calipers?

As an aside, you're never going to have more than average performance with that equipment. Certainly enough to enjoy cruising, drag racing, and autoX. But those brakes probably won't cut it out on a big track without significant fade issues. Which I assume fits your intended usage.

jp

[wmhjr]

You're correct. My vehicle is not being built for road racing. It's a "Resto-Mod" that will be driven lightly on weekends, cruises and shows, and will find itself at the drag strip every once in a while. I want it to handle and perform better than original but will not autocross. So, my main brake concerns are general drivability under "normal" conditions, maintenance requirements, fitment, and pretty much that's it. I mean, let's face it. It's a '66 A-Body convertible that I don't want to put a cage in. No matter what, it's not going to be a road racing demon.

I'm also assuming that changing the pedal ratio will require changing of the brake pedal setup - also then meaning changing the clutch pedal setup. Since the "hanging" or "mounting" location is fixed and the bottom is close to the floor, I would need to modify the mount in order to keep the pedal "close to" the same location but alter the pedal ratio. It's a little late in the project to do that unless it's absolute necessary.

I am using floating calipers. Stock GM type. Not sure of the bore size. Single piston. 11" rotors. That's all I've got at the moment - I'm not near the components right now.

[aray327]

Hey guys remember me, I started this thread? Glad to see there has been a good exchange of information. Maybe you can help me again.

Can I mount my hydroboost unit upside down? The unit is designed to have the nitrogen mounted towards the motor. That gets back into the valve cover area which is what I was trying to avoid. Can I mount it upside down? I would have to grind in a new weep hole but is there anything else to be concerned about. Plus it will look better with the hoses on the bottom.






I think I may start a new thread as well.

[a73formula]

My 65 chevelle, although not a super heavy car, has manual wilwood brakes all the way around and it stops great every time. For what you doing with the car I would co manual and keep the engine compartment a little cleaner.

My .02