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    Results 1 to 14 of 14
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Posts
      39

      Pro Touring Vs Pro Street

      A general question for the members.
      I have been looking for a car for about 4 months. I have noticed there are a lot of Pro Street cars for sale and they seem to be really reasonable and I was wondering if it's cost effective to change a pro street car to a pro touring?

      Example 1964 chevelle pro street with a 383 stroker, nice body, nice paint, interior, full cage and general above avg car with no rust. The car can be purchased for about 8,500 to 10,000. If it is already tubbed can it be made into a pro touring for say 10,000.00.

      I also found a perfect pro street 1956 shoebox for 25,000 build was done about 8 years ago at a cost of over 60K it has a new crate 454, trans and rear end. Is it reasonable to put a new front subframe and rear and go pro touring. I can't find a good body for less than 15,000.00

      Thoughts ?

      TJ



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Beaufort , NC
      Posts
      1,849
      Country Flag: United States
      It can be done,hell Penny was a Pro Streeter! How much it will cost to convert will depend on how much you change and how much of the parts you can sell and for how much $. The Chevelle sounds like a deal!!
      1968 F100 sb full vic chassis swap
      1965 Mustang coupe 347 5 spd cheap touring SOLD
      2003 Porsche 996 Outlaw LS2 swap SOLD
      1992 Lexus SC400 daily SOLD
      1966 Porsche 912 Outlaw SOLD
      1968 Ford F-100 sb SOLD

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jul 2003
      Location
      Anaheim Hills, CA
      Posts
      11,967
      Country Flag: United States
      Penny was pretty much pro-street when I got it.

      What's nice is that items like a roll cage and tubs translate nicely to pro-touring.

      If you like the paint and the chassis work then you are already ahead of the game as far as the transformation. If the drivetrain is quality then it can be sold off to fun somthing new. Or the engine can be rebuilt to fit what you want.
      "A ship in port is safe, but that's not what ships are built for."

      1968 Track Rat Camaro:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGHJ5c1yLIo&t=2s

      1971 Chevelle Wagon with a few mods:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBVPR3sRgyU

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Coronado, CA
      Posts
      1,688
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by tjtucker View Post
      A general question for the members.
      I have been looking for a car for about 4 months. I have noticed there are a lot of Pro Street cars for sale and they seem to be really reasonable and I was wondering if it's cost effective to change a pro street car to a pro touring?

      Example 1964 chevelle pro street with a 383 stroker, nice body, nice paint, interior, full cage and general above avg car with no rust. The car can be purchased for about 8,500 to 10,000. If it is already tubbed can it be made into a pro touring for say 10,000.00.

      I also found a perfect pro street 1956 shoebox for 25,000 build was done about 8 years ago at a cost of over 60K it has a new crate 454, trans and rear end. Is it reasonable to put a new front subframe and rear and go pro touring. I can't find a good body for less than 15,000.00

      Thoughts ?

      TJ
      I would be on that shoebox. Ditch the entire drivetrain to help fund the replacement.
      Johnny C.
      -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      70 'cuda, Pro-Charged 408 stroker, Tremec 5 speed, Strange S-60, Alter-k-tion, Tri 4, Hydroboost and Wilwoods

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jul 2003
      Location
      Anaheim Hills, CA
      Posts
      11,967
      Country Flag: United States
      Yea, I sold the big block, TH400, and gear vendors out of penny and put that money into a new drivetrain.

      Hard to believe she once looked like this under the hood. lol

      "A ship in port is safe, but that's not what ships are built for."

      1968 Track Rat Camaro:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGHJ5c1yLIo&t=2s

      1971 Chevelle Wagon with a few mods:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBVPR3sRgyU

    6. #6
      Join Date
      May 2007
      Posts
      109
      The 'Velle sounds like a helluva deal. Depending on how much wheel and tire you want to run, a prostreet car can be a very good starting point. '64-'65 Chevelles are VERY space challenged when it comes to stuffing a bunch of tire under the back of them. Ask me how I know...

      If you pass on the Chevelle, let me know as I might be interested.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Posts
      39

      pro

      Thanks for the replies.


      The 64 chevelle is running 28 X 10.5 X 15 Mickey Thompson dot tires on the rear without any body work.

      The 56 is running 13 X 6.5 -15lt

      Based upon the above do you think the cars can be converted to pro touring?

      Thanks TJ




    8. #8
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Posts
      310
      Since I have been hanging around here I am really considering converting my mustang from pro street to a modern trans am style pro tourer.

      Steve do you have any more pictures of penny before her pro tour make over?
      Kody Willis

      1969 mustang fast back (fatty patty)
      special thanks to the great people who are willing to work with Kode-Red-Racing on this awsome project

      air ride technologies - http://ridetech.com/
      DVdesigns - www.coroflot.com/dvdesign1
      Second skin automotive insulation - http://www.secondskinaudio.com/
      IDIDIT INC. - http://www.ididitinc.com/index.html

      and hopefully many more to come!
      Check out all the progress at http://www.freewebs.com/mach1stang/

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Beaufort , NC
      Posts
      1,849
      Country Flag: United States
      Well the Chevelle size tire is not what I would really call "Pro Street". A 31-18.5-15 or a 33 21.5-15 are the wide PS style I was thinking of. Most PS cars are Back halfed, and I dont think the 56's sizes are right.
      1968 F100 sb full vic chassis swap
      1965 Mustang coupe 347 5 spd cheap touring SOLD
      2003 Porsche 996 Outlaw LS2 swap SOLD
      1992 Lexus SC400 daily SOLD
      1966 Porsche 912 Outlaw SOLD
      1968 Ford F-100 sb SOLD

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Coronado, CA
      Posts
      1,688
      Country Flag: United States
      You can get more out of reselling the big block car drivetrain and you say it is near perfect.
      Sure it costs more but it IS a 56. Very desireable and probably has show quality higher dollar stuff to resell.

      If a drivetrain replacement is what you'll be doing it will be a less lucrative venture when you're trying to dump off a 383 stroker.
      Johnny C.
      -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      70 'cuda, Pro-Charged 408 stroker, Tremec 5 speed, Strange S-60, Alter-k-tion, Tri 4, Hydroboost and Wilwoods

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Posts
      39

      Pro



      Here is a photo of the 56

    12. #12
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Orangeville, Ontario Canada
      Posts
      119
      The real question is are you going for the "Pro Touring" look or do you want a car that functions in a proper "touring car" context?

      Arguably you can changed the tire/wheel package, update the shocks and suspension and enjoy the look. Or you can put 10s of thousands of dollars into having a tuned suspension assembled if you plan on using the car for more than cruise nights and weekends on winding roads; by racing it.

      What is your honest intention?

      PS. Yes, buy someone's completed project (especially if you like the paint/bodywork)... it'll save you time/money in the long run.
      1987 Monte Carlo Super Slow - Super Worn Out 355, Carb, Giggle Juice, 3" Duals, 200-4R & 4.56s
      1987 Turtle Buick - T63e, 83s, FMIC, MPE DP, PowerLogger, MAFT Pro, 4" Single, ProPain & 3.08s
      2002 Crapmaro B4C - LS1, A4, SLP Lid, DiabloSport, Cutout & 3.23s
      2007 TrailBlazer Super Slug - LS2, A4, AWD, Tune, CAI, Exhaust & 4.11s

      If you didn't build it, it's not yours.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      16,117
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by tjtucker View Post


      Here is a photo of the 56
      I LOVE this 56. Personally I would keep it a Pro-Street car, but upgrade it. Ditch the 454 and install an LS7 or some other aluminum block LSx engine. That will take almost 300 pounds off the nose of the car and add power as compared to the 454. If you like to row your own gears, get a dog ring T56. Rockland as well as Liberty have several options. Ditch the Welds and add a more modern set of Bigs and Littles. With those changes it will be a lot more fun to drive, run easily in the 11s, maybe 10s with the right engine, and still get 20mpg.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @dr__efi
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Posts
      39

      pro

      Andrew

      I like your suggestion
      "
      I would keep it a Pro-Street car, but upgrade it. Ditch the 454 and install an LS7 or some other aluminum block LSx engine. That will take almost 300 pounds off the nose of the car and add power as compared to the 454. If you like to row your own gears, get a dog ring T56. Rockland as well as Liberty have several options. Ditch the Welds and add a more modern set of Bigs and Littles. With those changes it will be a lot more fun to drive, run easily in the 11s, maybe 10s with the right engine, and still get 20mpg.

      Andrew"

      If I purchase it I would more than likely add a new front suspension, steering, brakes, wider front tires and different rear tires with big disk brakes
      .
      I would keep the 454 for a while as it is new with less than 100 miles on it but I like the ideal of a 5 or 6 speed trans.

      "Arguably you can changed the tire/wheel package, update the shocks and suspension and enjoy the look. Or you can put 10s of thousands of dollars into having a tuned suspension assembled if you plan on using the car for more than cruise nights and weekends on winding roads; by racing it"

      What is your honest intention? Just a presentable car that runs and drives good, bullet/idot proof and I can drive round trip (40) miles to work and back once or twice a week.

      What would you all suggest for the front suspension and about what would the cost be. My budget is around 40K so that gives me 15k to work with.

      Thanks for the help
      TJ




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