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    Results 1 to 5 of 5
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Posts
      41

      Offset dowel question..

      I purchased a set of offset dowels from a local speed shop for aligning my bellhousing for my new tko-600. They fit in the block without any need to press them in and spin with the help of a standard screwdriver. The kit provides a set screw and the expectation is to drill and tap the block and lock them down once the desired offset is acheived. Since I am doing this with the engine in the car, this is not an option. My question is what role do the dowels play other than alignment? am i risking anything by not locking them down? once alignment is achieved and the housing is torqued I should be good right? I planned on etching in the final position for reference in the future if I need to tear it down. What are your thoughts?



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2002
      Location
      Lost Wages, Nevada
      Posts
      2,684
      Country Flag: United States
      Green, self wicking, LockTite, maybe...

      Without the set screws, which wouldn't hold them in place with any load on them anyway, I believe that the self wicking LT might be a workable solution.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Newbury Park, CA
      Posts
      5,839
      Country Flag: United States
      You could get everything assembled then weld the pins to the bellhousing, if it is steel.

      If welding is not an option, is there enough material to put a set-screw into the bellhousing flange?

      Or, like Tom says, go green.
      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Apr 2003
      Location
      Central Valley, CA
      Posts
      910
      Country Flag: United States
      My suggestion: sell those dowels and buy the set screw locking "split" dowels from RobbMC performance... also now sold by Lakewood.

      http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html

      Easy to install, easy to adjust & lock in place, and easy to remove or readjust in the future.

      If you keep your current ones, I would also suggest the green "retaining compound" loctite for the first effort. It should work given the application. For a close tolerance "slip fit" application such as yours you want grade 603 or 635.
      1969 Chevelle
      Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
      In progress: LS2, 3.0 Whipple, T56 Magnum, torque arm & watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, Mk60 ABS, vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Boonville, Missouri
      Posts
      924
      X2 on RobbMC. Great pieces.
      Tony Edler
      Illumin8s
      See Illumin8s at www.illumin8s.com

      '73 Dodge Challenger




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