Rust pitting repair

[Happyfunballs]

Sounds good. Thanks for keeping us in the loop. It doesn't sound like you'll have any rust issues.

[JoshStratton]

1. I had a big rust hole in a fender and decided to patch it with new metal.
2. After doing that, I was still a little nervous about some pitting that I had around the area so I cleaned the holes out with a dremmel grinding cone.
3. Next I applied MetalReady and POR 15 over the entire rusted out area as the directions described. (I also coated the underside of the fender with POR15)
4. I noticed that the fender wasn't quite in the shape that it should have been, so I used some of the StraighLine body filler that POR15 offers. They said it should be put over POR15 that is a few hours old...follow the directions on this.

The stuff sanded VERY smooth and seems to be rock hard after a week of curing time (i dont think it takes that long, just had other stuff to do). I am not experienced at all with body fillers. This was my first time using them to this extent. I am VERY VERY pleased with the way it has turned out so far. It is kind of expensive, but I think the price difference was justified.

Unfortunately I did not document the process because I wasn't sure how it would turn out...but the good news(i suppose) is that there is more than one fender on that car that needs work
Now that I know what I am doing, I will document the next one. I hope to have it ready in a week or so, but we will see...

I primed the fender with RIGHT STUFF(very cool stuff and cheap too) de-ruster after sanding it to bare metal. I then sprayed it with DP40. The StraightLine part of the fender came out the best (by far). It's so smooth and it looks really good under the black DP40. No cracks so far and it has been about 2 days. I am told that with fillers, your biggest obstical is the first hour or so that you spray primer. If it doesn't crack by then, you are probably ok. I put the fender back on and it looks so much better...now if I can just figure out how to re-align the darn thing correctly.

[third base]

O.K., i know a lot of pople think that POR is the greatest thing ever invented to stop rust but that is simply not true. after applying POR it dries very hard and can eventually peel if done on edges. in order to use any kind of their putty(any kind!) the POR has to be tacky when putty is applied. then if you want to primer over it you have to break the surface quite a bit. don't bother using a tie coat primer for it is practically the same as a good epoxy primer just apply after POR has dried and use a few dust coats before you cover surface completly. I have had many discussions with the dealers in Sac, cali.. about their products. sadly i have found out the hard way and have personally used A LOT of POR. I don't even want to go into that. so if you have something to patch. cut it out, patch it, clean it, primer and topcoat. if done correctly you shouldn't have any problem with rust.
P.S. if you do use POR make sure to wear the proper mask. water is it's catalyst and it can dry in your lungs. it happened to me and I got very sick and all that happened was I could slightly smell it though my mask. Good luck!