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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jul 2007
      Location
      Olathe, KS
      Posts
      1,158
      Country Flag: United States
      Those lights do look killer.
      Also found in the linked site

      All of our HID Sealed Beam Upgrade kits comply with Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) 108, Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (CMVSS) 108 and Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) J2009 for Discharge Forward Lighting Systems.




    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Mountain View, CA
      Posts
      9,583
      Country Flag: United States
      Dude,

      Boobs? Marty Feldman?

      Awesome.
      True T.

      Whats new with Project 1/2-Trak?


      Follow my wisecracks on Sports, Food, Politics and other BS on Twitter.

      My blog

      When they kick out your front door, How you gonna come?
      With your hands on your head, Or on the trigger of your gun?

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Posts
      2,624
      Country Flag: United States
      So is an H4, not an HID? For example: https://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/...ghts&SM=1&SC=4
      Red Forman: "The Mustang's front end is problematic; get yourself a Firebird."

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Orlando, Fl
      Posts
      1,229
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by amcmike
      So is an H4, not an HID? For example: https://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/...ghts&SM=1&SC=4
      H4 just refers to a dual filament incandescent bulb. It is commonly used in single halogen housings where one bulb needs to handle the low and hi beams. It is not HID.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Newbury Park, CA
      Posts
      5,839
      Country Flag: United States
      I just finished up installing H4 Hella's in mine. The hole in the back of the headlamp bucket needed to be enlarged to fit the larger Hella bulb. I did it with the bucket mounted int he car by first using a hole saw with the same diameter as the stock bucket hole, then using that as a bushing to guide a larger hole saw to clear the Hella. Other than that, is was standard re-wiring and relays to get them running.
      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jul 2007
      Location
      Los Angeles, CA
      Posts
      1,303
      Quote Originally Posted by CarlC View Post
      I just finished up installing H4 Hella's in mine. The hole in the back of the headlamp bucket needed to be enlarged to fit the larger Hella bulb. I did it with the bucket mounted int he car by first using a hole saw with the same diameter as the stock bucket hole, then using that as a bushing to guide a larger hole saw to clear the Hella. Other than that, is was standard re-wiring and relays to get them running.
      Hey Carl, you have the Hella Part numbers you used handy by chance? Thinking of doing the same along with my electrical system.


      Thanks!

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jun 2008
      Location
      San Antonio
      Posts
      86
      Quote Originally Posted by CarlC View Post
      I just finished up installing H4 Hella's in mine. The hole in the back of the headlamp bucket needed to be enlarged to fit the larger Hella bulb. I did it with the bucket mounted int he car by first using a hole saw with the same diameter as the stock bucket hole, then using that as a bushing to guide a larger hole saw to clear the Hella. Other than that, is was standard re-wiring and relays to get them running.
      Do you have a pic of your wiring job? Did you splice into the factory wiring harness?
      1971 El Camino PT, SC&C, TBJ, UMI bars, UMI LCAs, Hotchkis, C5 brakes, VWW V48s
      "Project Inferno"

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      San Antonio, TX
      Posts
      1,635
      Quote Originally Posted by EL T1 View Post
      Do you have a pic of your wiring job? Did you splice into the factory wiring harness?
      To run the H4 bulbs you will need one tweak for the low beams, there are 2 pins you can swap, or just buy these pigtails and plug-and-play.

      From: http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=120
      Note: looking from behind the socket (both male and female plugs), where you have the wires, you have terminals at 9, 12, 3 o'clock, the 12 an 3 o'clock terminals swap.

      You can pull those mentioned from the car socket and re-insert them. The high beams (on a 4 lamp setup) need no mods.

      If your car has 4 beams, you 'need' to buy a wiring harness that can handle the added load the H4 bulbs will draw.
      If you buy the wiring harness, you only need 1 pigtail, as the harness will power the 4 headlights based on lo/hi beam detected.

      This is one sample of a wiring harness for H4 lamps in a 4 headlight setup, there are nicer ones by Bosch and Painless, but this is an example:

      From: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GR...3/?image=large#

      Also, you can buy H4 bulbs that are Xenon gas pressurized, these are marketed as +30%, +50%, you can also find them on e-bay, they are brighter that regular H4s.
      Search 'Osram +50'
      http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OSRAM...Q5fAccessories


      My appologies for the hijack, I thought I would contribute to the last posters question. Although this is really H4 related, not HID, but it seems there is some comparing of pro/con of HID versus H4.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Ocala, FL
      Posts
      34
      So let me make sure I am getting this correct. Halogen and HID "Provide the same end result" , but the "Method of Implimentation" is worlds apart. Kind of like gas or electric water heaters. Both Provide hot water, but you can't "Retrofit" the new system into the old housing. As far as I can tell there are some things in life where the adage of "If it is not broken, dont replace it" should be the ironclad rule and not the exception. I for one have always felt that a proper twelve volts, excellent grounds and the best Halogen light assemblies equate to very good lighting. IMHO unless you are running a track event at night why do you need HID? I recently installed a headlight flasher on a 2010 Impala for a police department cruiser. Interesting to note that all that did was activate the beam cover and it did not "FLASH" the bulb. Untill the "SCIENCE" of HID is decoded enough for the average joe, Halogen is all I will use. Just my $0.02
      Todd

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Newbury Park, CA
      Posts
      5,839
      Country Flag: United States
      http://www.rallylights.com/SearchRes...CategoryID=367

      The 79562 E-code.

      They have the connectors as well. After doing mine I highly suggest using the HL28001 connector vs. the ceramic part. Getting the rubber boot over the wiring on the ceramic part is incredibly difficult without tearing it. I also suggest getting the crimp-on ends that allow you to run a new correct-color wire into your relay plug and avoid splices. Del City carries these as well.
      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Canada
      Posts
      134

      lights

      Thanks, Carl. Looks like I was a little slow checking up on this thread.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      San Antonio, TX
      Posts
      1,635
      More like different levels of performance (and cost)

      The H4 housings with H4 bulbs will give you a great improvement over stock headlights, and much better light control in fog/rain, since the H4 has a sharp cutoff line. The H4 bulbs can range from 1,200-2,400 lumens of light output.
      http://www.rallylights.com/Hella_H4_Bulbs.aspx


      The HIDs are truly an arc type bulb, using a ballast, and they will produce more light with less heat. The 4300 Kelvin degrees color bulb (true white) produce about 3,000 lumens, so the HIDs are brighter. The blue-er and 'ice'/cool-blue bulbs in this case are still bright unlike those cheap painted bulbs you see at Autozone, and each jump into a bluer range is about a 15% light filtering effect, but still brighter than stock.


      Now there are HID retro-fit bulbs, a true HID bulb with an H4 base (also called re-based) that will fit the H4 housing, but many experience glare, and fly-away reflections, that are annoying to the driver, and to others a true hazard, as you temporarily blind incoming traffic. In this case you are fitting a bulb that is not designed for use in a reflector dish, as HID was designed for a projector lamp, with an integrated light cutoff plate. HID re-based bulbs have a clamped on metal filter for a cutoff for the low-beams.
      Note the D2R (reflector HID) has a metal band around part of the 'capsule' (bulb) versus D2S (standard HID)
      http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=306

      If you have more-budget-than-shame, you can buy some very cool, true HID projector lamps made to fit older cars, these are DOT approved, but will set you back $500 a pair, or $1K the set of 4. These are the only DOT approved HID lamp for older cars that I know of.
      http://www.spitzkraft.com/catalogue.php?catID=1



      You can also tinker with adapting BMW HID projectors into the 4 1/2" round style, or cut an H4 reflector and adapt a projector HID from a BMW, Infinity into an H4 base, but that will take some time and skill to make, but the results can be worth it (unless you buy all the parts at retail).
      Dave
      84 Monte SS - just a few bolt-ons

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