Please Help - Security Light ??

[TheMonkey]

my son just got a '98 firebird. everything works fine but the 'security' light remains lit up on the dash. car has an aftermarket stereo in it.

what are my solutions to turn off the light or make sure he does not get electronically locked out?

thx.

[tumper93]

Have the theft deterant module scanned to see what the code is and go from there. Could be the wire to the ignition cylinder is about to break also. Need to know the code first.

[maldo]

I used to have a 97 camaro with the same problems Its security module in the ignition column (this reads the chip on the key)
You can bypass it all together if you don’t want to take apart the column
If you are interested send me a pm and I will tell you how to bypass the system

[TheMonkey]

thanks guys. i see that the key has one of the resistor inserts. i'll measure it and insert a bypass. hopefully that will do it.

just seems weird that it still allows the car to operate, but just puts the light on. i would think that it's either triggered or not....

i'll post back couple days hopefully with progress.

[maldo]

thanks guys. i see that the key has one of the resistor inserts. i'll measure it and insert a bypass. hopefully that will do it.

just seems weird that it still allows the car to operate, but just puts the light on. i would think that it's either triggered or not....

i'll post back couple days hopefully with progress.

yeah that is strange the car still runs becasue when i had the problem the car would not start..

[TheMonkey]

okay... yesterday i got a little more information. i was set to hard-wire a resistor into the wiring to do the popular bypass mod.

for clarification, the ECU sends a wire up the steering column, through the resistor on the key, and back down the column to the ECU. the resistor value must match what the ECU expects or else the security light goes on and can't start the car for 10 minutes.

but.... turns out, if i just disconnect that circuit, car still behaves the same. resistor value, no resistance, or open circuit does not matter.... car runs with security light on. if i test the resistance through the wires that go through the key, it is an open circuit; i have read that sometimes a wire breaks up in the cylinder lock. i suspect that the VATS system went bad, and the PO bypassed it downstream - maybe wired the fuel pump directly to ignition?



i suppose i could get the security light to go out if i still hardwire a resistor in there. i tried the resistor value in the key, but that did not work - maybe the key is a replacement, and that's why the system was bypassed downstream. then i wired a potentiometer and tried all 15 resistor values, but none of them work. perhaps each attempt requires a 10 minute wait. is there any way to determine what resistor value is required for the ECU to turn out the light?

[derekf]

The delay is less than 10 - one of my keys intermittently doesn't have the right resistance, and I end up having to sit while it punishes me for trying. I want to say it's a 2 minute delay.

To fix it, if the VATS isn't completely borked, you could always get someone (that had the software to do it) to reset the BCM -- the next key used after that is the resistance it'll use from then on.

If, however, the PO disabled VATS the hard way, your best bet might be to just disable the lamp itself.

[Jim Nilsen]

Put a sticker over the light and forget about it. I got used to the light on my 89 being on after about 3 days and never thought of it as anymore than a gauge that got lit up.

If it was supposed to be on and wasn't, would it still bother you?

I hate problems like this but sometimes accepting is just easier.

[MonzaRacer]

If you follow the tiny wires under the dash and wire in the proper resistance value it shouldnt give any more issues, if it beginns flashing you wont go any where a nd as for trying a lot of values you have to wait between tests.
With it on its seeing an issue but still running for now. Best get it fixed before it locks you out at the most inoportune time.

[MCOR Automotive LLC]

The main problem is usually the broke wire near the ignition cylinder for the VATS. The second problem is that an aftermarket security system gets installed with a bypass and it fails at some point. The system gets completely bypassed by someone just wanting it to start and there you have it.

You have seen how "difficult" it is to bypass GM's "highly sophisticated" resistor key VATS system (hint of sarcasm). Unless you are restoring this thing to factory original condition, just pull the bulb and move on. It has been bypassed so you shouldn't have any more side effects short of the bulb remaining on...