Burned Up Wire(s) - Need Help!

[bigboi]

I was out cruising this weekend and all of a sudden I completely lost all electrical power. When I pulled over I noticed the wire coming from the positive terminal on the battery to the distribution block (where all electronics are wired to) was burned up and in half.



I replaced the wire from the positive terminal to the distribution block but I no longer have any power when I turn the ignition switch to on or start.

I am assuming I probably burned up the ignition wire - Am I correct here?

Here is my problem/question... I "think" the ignition wire runs from the ignition switch to the starter. I guess I need to crack open the dash and trace the wire through the car. Does anybody know where this wire runs? Does it come out the driver side firewall?

Any help on this would be appreciated. I suck with wiring and this is going to be a big headache for me. :\

[Vegas69]

Should come out your junction block under your master cylinder and over your bellhousing. Need to find the short first.

[bigboi]

OK... I will look for it there. Does anyone happen to know what color this wire is on a stock junction block? I have a Chilton's book... But it's worthless.

I was planning on finding the short by getting power to the distribution block again and taking each wire (one at a time) and touching it to the distribution block terminal. Someone told me that when I find the one that makes the "big" spark... That one is my problem wire.

Can't my heap o' junk just run... Be Nice... Not Break?

[bigboi]

OK... I am scratching my head here folks. Maybe someone can help me out.

Reference this diagram...
http://www.gvtc.com/~rlaa/Electrical/67_1.JPG

I melted wire 14R (This wire is coming off the positive terminal of the battery - It goes to the Junction Block).

I have NO power anywhere in the car now. My Junction Block is hot. But nothing happens when the ignition switch is turned to ON or Start.

I have bumped over the engine a few times with a remote starter so I know the battery is good.

I am not sure where to look next. Can anyone with electrical experience help?

[baskin]

To start, that 14R is a fusible link, you can usually tell that from the wiring diagram in that a link is always 4 gauge sizes smaller than the wire that it's connected to. You can see that there is another 16 gauge link from the horn relay that probably goes to the ignition switch (doesn't seem to be in the diagram) I'd check that next

[6'9"Witha69]

I fried that wire once, about 8 tears ago. Once I replaced the run from the battery to the junction all was fine. The wire marked 10R is the factory splice run that works like 4 wires and another junction in the harness. If that is goners then the system won't see anything and that could be the cause of the short. Also, check to make sure the battery is charged and in good shape. The wire from the horn relay to the dash also has a fusible link so ensure that is in good shape as well.

Here is some additional reading about the main electrical system of our cars.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...evymain1.shtml

[bigboi]

I checked to see if the horn relay was hot and sure enough... It wasn't. I also noticed the overflow can creeped it's way over against the horn relay terminal. This is where the short probably occurred.

Thanks for the help guys. I will concentrate on this area and see what I find.

[bigboi]

Oooh boy... What a pain... I put a fuse in-line from the positive to the junction block and ran a new wire to the horn relay.

Car fires up and runs... But now it's blowing the fuse that I put in-line between the positive battery terminal and the junction block.

I notice the car runs for a while but when the fans go to kick in at 160 degrees the fuse pops. I think the short is somewhere in the dual spal fans.

I looked at the positive and negative wires on the fans and they look OK. I guess the wire that is running from the temp sensor to the fan relay could be pinched and shorting out somewhere.

I need to let the motor cool down before I proceed to trace the temp senor wire to the relays.

Here is a question tho... Both fans have in-line fuses. Why aren't those fuses popping? Why is the main in-line fuse popping?

Shoot... Wiring problems drives me bonkers!

[6'9"Witha69]

Check the amp rating of the in line fuses for the fans. Normally they are really high as fans can draw a lot of current.

[Gordz32]

Fans will usually need at least 30amps each, I believe. What size fuse are you running between the battery and the horn relay. this is how you fuse block gets its power. Also , Where is your fan relay pulling juice from. I'm guessing the battery?

[bigboi]

I re-wired the fans and ran them to the junction block - Bad Idea. Once they kicked on their were blowing the 30amp fuse that runs in-line between the battery and the junction block.

I am now running the fans directly to the battery - 30amp fuse in-line on each fan.

I am running a 30amp fuse in-line between positive battery terminal and the junction block.

I am NOT running any fuse in-line between junction block and horn relay. I think I better throw a 30amp on there just to be on the safe side - What do you think?

I ended up taking a few things that were wired to the junction block and running them straight to the battery... fuel pump, Fans, Stereo, Alternator, and 2 Fans now run straight from battery - All are individually 30amp in-line fused (Stereo is 50amp in-line fused).

I started the car this morning and let it run for about 10 minutes. Fans kicked on and everything kept running. I think I better go fuse the horn relay to junction block now.

I am kinda iffy on whether I should drive it yet. Last 2 times were tow truck incidents. Not to be mean or anything... But I think it took 2 hours to tow the car 1 mile last time because the dude wouldn't stop talking about my car... It's nice and all... But c'mon... It ain't thaaaaat nice - LOL!

Thanks for the info guys!

[Gordz32]

tHATS