S10 M/C Bleeding Tips?

[fuzzyonion]

I had a feeling that Monza master would be too small :(

Yes Jake, IMO you are covered and will stop well.



All the GM QTU's run the front brakes off the rear port as far as I know. The step bore is for extra volume to the front calipers, and is part of the rear piston bore.
I have not yet seen a QTU with a residual valve in it. It must be in the distribution valve unit on those vehicles.

Mark, if the C4 calipers have a lot of piston retraction, you might try a 2psi inline residual valve, and a 21mm or 22mm Mopar master until you get the Alcons.
I'm really likin' that CNC setup Shane linked to though...

[SHANE 73Z]

Sorry Guys,

CNC Brakes directed me to Johns Mustangs as a dealer. They seem to be very helpful thus far.

HEre is a link to it:

http://www.jmcmotorsports.com/catalo...0=&cat1=Brakes

They also informed me that they do have a setup specific for GM. I am impressed because MC changes down the road will be much easier.

Shane

[Mean 69]

Gulp! Now I know why I was a bit suspicious of the brake unit, the price! $325, I'll ASSume that includes a pair of masters, so perhaps it isn't that bad?

I have a Wilwood pedal setup with a bias bar, etc, maybe it is time to look a bit deeper?! Hmmm.....

M

[andrewb70]

Andrew, is your S-10 M/C for an original power disc truck, or manual.

When looking for this m/c, I noticed two different types.

AC#18M310, with power, 24 & 36mm bore.

AC#18M309, without power, 31.75 & 24.0 MM cylinder bore.

I'm assuming you used the one "with power" since you plumed the rear port (the larger bore size) to the front brakes. If so, did it have the shallow pushrod hole?

I got the "without power" model. I did not have the as much data as you guys do now. Looking at the specs now, I would probbaly go with the "with power". The MC has a shallow pushrod hole.

By the way, Andrew, how would you characterize the pedal effort with your system? The six pot Wilwoods are pretty close to the Alcon units in terms of piston area, so this is pretty darned close to what I expect from the new setup if I ran a 1" unit. Do you get decent rear braking performance? Proportioning valve?

The brake pedal feel is very nice. The effort is moderate and I am able to modulate the brakes very well at the point of lock up. Keep in mind that I am also running 14 inch rotors in the front and 12 in the rear. The rear brakes work great. The system is very well balanced, at least in my car. I have almost full pressure going to the rear brakes and the rear lock up just after the fronts. Attached is a picture of my rotor and caliper. Next to it is a 13 inch rotor from a Baer Track kit.

Andrew

[Mean 69]

Now THAT is what I call a rotor! Is that 1.25" thick, or thicker? Was this from a kit that you bought, or did you piece it together? I bought a pair of Wilwood hats to start putting my stuff together, but it has a far greater offset than that one, maybe I didn't look hard enough at their catalog to find a shallower one.

So when are you moving out to California!?!? Chicago is nice and all, I grew up near there, but you can drive that bad monster all year round out here! Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.

Mark

[andrewb70]

That rotor is actually 1.38 inch thick. With the aluminum hat is weighed less than the 13 x 1.1 cast iron rotor. The hat is from the Wilwood 4th gen F-body kit. The rotor was made by Coleman. The whole system was put together by Precision Brakes company.

More details here:

http://groups.msn.com/projectgattago/shoebox.msnw

Andrew