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    Results 21 to 29 of 29
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Apr 2003
      Location
      Central Valley, CA
      Posts
      910
      Country Flag: United States
      The poly mounts I used on my car were extremely high durometer... it barely took any rotation of the bolt after contact with the body to achieve spec torque on the body bolts (35 ft/lbs.) With a very objective (cough, cough) educated fingernail hardness test they were almost as stout as Delrin.



      So yes, run either poly, plastic (delrin, etc), or solid of some kind. Going from fairly fresh rubber body bushings to poly bushings on my car made a very noticeable improvement in the "solidity" of the car. A bit of increased NVH but the stiffening of the overall frame/body combo was worth it.

      One thing about the poly mounts though is they don't include the metal sleeves & washers, you have to reuse the old steel bits from the factory rubber mounts. If they're in bad shape then you'll have to find/make/buy new hardware.
      1969 Chevelle
      Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
      In progress: LS2, 3.0 Whipple, T56 Magnum, torque arm & watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, Mk60 ABS, vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.


    2. #22
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      Chicago
      Posts
      295
      Quote Originally Posted by Norm Peterson
      83hurstguy - there must be something semi-universal about "10% effects and smaller being negligible for first cut analysis". That's about what I've settled on, just playing around with structural analysis in general. To go much stiffer probably puts you into the realm of diminishing returns, stiffness vs added weight anyway.


      Norm
      It has to do with a "springs in series" equation from what little I remember (where the overall rate is summed by 1/kt = 1/k1 + 1/k2, etc...) All our chassis judges seemed satsified with that number, and we never had a problem with the car being unresponsive to bar changes. I'm not sure if Smith mentioned it in one of his books or not. Definitely one of those "semi-universal" things though...
      Luke
      '63 Chevy II wagon - project

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Posts
      23
      So 79 g-body!! What did you decide to go with poly or rubber? Im at the same point in my build.

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      dayton, oh
      Posts
      952
      Quote Originally Posted by slimneverdies
      So 79 g-body!! What did you decide to go with poly or rubber? Im at the same point in my build.
      i didn't think there was still a question.

      go poly.
      dave.t
      86 Olds 442 - Project If It Ain't Broke, Take It Apart and Fix It
      74 Javelin AMX - stocker

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Farmington Hills, MI
      Posts
      1,038
      Poly
      JEFF SHORTT
      -IDEAL STEEL


    6. #26
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      The Bay Area,CA
      Posts
      12
      go with SOLID!!!!!

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Posts
      23

      I hear ya

      The poly is actually cheaper. I was still asking cause on another site a few guys with el camino's went with some poly and some solid. I have this car completely apart and dont want to take it apart again because of binding issues or some annoying sqeaking noises. Im spending alot of money on this car and would hate to have road noise because of bushings.

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      The Bay Area,CA
      Posts
      12
      mine doesn't squeak and the body feels real stable

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Columbus, OH
      Posts
      210
      Quote Originally Posted by slimneverdies
      So 79 g-body!! What did you decide to go with poly or rubber? Im at the same point in my build.
      Yeah I ended up going with the poly...I haven't driven the car yet, but the body is back down on the frame. Now here comes the fun part of running the new brake and fuel line that ran on the inside of the rail. Thinking about just taking it somewhere and having it done.

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