BACK ON TRACK -- Project Track Rat for Camaro Performers Magazine

[formula]

sweet idea...but can we ditch the g/s stripe? Everything else about it is awesome, for sure.

[Steve1968LS2]

sweet idea...but can we ditch the g/s stripe? Everything else about it is awesome, for sure.

No, I like the GS stripe.. sorta different yet familiar

[formula]

No, I like the GS stripe.. sorta different yet familiar

ok fine , if you're going to be completely unreasonable, I'll just have to convince myself to like them instead.

Actually, the more I look at the rendering, the more I like it. Really looking forward to seeing this one as it progresses.

[BossaNova]

Bbbbbuddddget. Bbbbbuddddget. Did I say that right?
What's all this noise about a budget?

[jfaria78]

Rat with no Big Block? Hmmmmmmmm

[trapin]

I have that cutout on my car too although it is a lot cleaner as this was a factory A/C car. I never thought to close it up or even mention it to my painter until the car was done with the cowl panel on in my garage. I'm at the point now where I'm too damn lazy to do anything about it and will probably just fab up a block off plate to screw over it. I just don't feel like breaking out the welder and sanding blocks, putty, primer, paint. To hell with that.

Street car, baby. Street car.

[class67]

40k budget...does that mean no billet hinges, fender struts etc..., no bling factor at all? is it all business (track days that is) with this one?

[Steve1968LS2]

40k budget...does that mean no billet hinges, fender struts etc..., no bling factor at all? is it all business (track days that is) with this one?

No bling as in "no polished stuff, no chrome"..

If you mean bling as in it will look nice, then yea. Obviously the CF stuff, while saving weight, is more of a looks deal. Will most likely have the CF fender struts that Anvil offers. As for billet hood hinges, they are tempting since they operate so well, adjust so nice and they can be had with the right strut for the light CF hood. But only if there's $$ left in the budget.

Like I said, it's first goal is track days but it will have more amenities than Penny like AC, heat and wipers.

I want to show that for a reasonable amount of cash you can build a really cool and functional Camaro. I also plan to offer the "tight wallet" option in each story. For instance, I'm running nice wheels but I will price out and fit a set of steelies so show a low buck option. Still, I will try to stay with my $40k budget.

[BuddyP]

I want to show that for a reasonable amount of cash you can build a really cool and functional Camaro. I also plan to offer the "tight wallet" option in each story. For instance, I'm running nice wheels but I will price out and fit a set of steelies so show a low buck option. Still, I will try to stay with my $40k budget.

I'm keeping a running tally on my project as well, I especially consider mine as a budget project in that if I don't, it'll never get done. I feel I will easily clear the $40k price tag and this is with a fair amount of new stuff, just a lot of internet deals and ebay purchases. Instead of getting a nice tubular front clip with coil overs I'm using stock subframe with drop coils. But has the G-mod, proper shocks and swaybar, all new while the subframe was fully powdercoated. Brakes were new but bought off ebay for a steal. All in all a complete front clip for around $2000, that includes all new ball joints, idler arm, tie rods, del-a-lum bushings and such.

Also to stretch a few bucks I went with a 6.0 iron truck block vs a nice new LS2 or LS3. That saved the bucks to put into heads, intake, TB, ect.

[Rick Dorion]

I'm really looking forward to this. Your short term (relatively speaking) project matches well with my long term goal.

[Steve1968LS2]

I'm really looking forward to this. Your short term (relatively speaking) project matches well with my long term goal.

Magazines are accelerated reality... we build in a year what others spend 3 years doing. After all, readers want a new story each issue.. they don't want two or three months in between installments.

[LMDGUY]

way cool project steve.. love the paint scheme.

[454bug]

This build is focusing on an appropriate, "real world" price point for most of us "workin' stiffs"... In reality, we only have so much "discretionary income" that can be allocated to toys! I have a VERY understanding wife as long as we keep a balance of clothes/shoe shopping for her and parts procurement for me...

ONE purchase for her... ONE purchase for me... I just don't let her see the receipts! LOL...

[James OLC]

Great looking rendering and cool looking project!
I look forward to seeing the Track Rat come together.

[Steve1968LS2]

First new part for the project.. the cooling system. I saw this and was very curious to try it out. Eventually I will let you know how it fit.

It came today, here are some pictures...

The kit, the panels are to close off the area between the core support and the front panel. There's an overflow tank and fans. Fans are 12 and 14 inch. The radiator is pretty darn big. I had them set it up for an LS engine so I guess I'm commited. lol

I forgot to have them put in a bung for a temp sender, my fault.



I also had it set for eventual Air Conditioning since I like how they did the mounting tab.


The core support is made of solid bar stock. It must be stronger and more rigid than the factory one. Once I take it apart I will weigh it compared to a stocker. The total weight for the big box and all the stuff was 85 pounds.

[Twentyover]

First new part for the project.. the cooling system. I saw this and was very curious to try it out. Eventually I will let you know how it fit.

It came today, here are some pictures...

.....
The core support is made of solid bar stock. It must be stronger and more rigid than the factory one. Once I take it apart I will weigh it compared to a stocker. The total weight for the big box and all the stuff was 85 pounds.

Solid aluminum bar? With all due respect, if this is the case, that thing could be made of steel, and loose a whole pile of weight in the process, while still be stiffer than aluminum.

If i remember my material properties correctly, in general aluminum is 1/3 the weight and 1/3 the stiffness of steel. You could match the stiffness of the aluminum bar assembly with about 60% of the weight by using steel square tube. Weld in crush tubes and tap for the threaded holes. I'm not seeing a need for aluminum bar in this application.

Hope a practicing structures guy chimes in here, since it's been about 30 years since I did these types of calculations, but a 1" square bar of aluminum is roughly as stiff as a 1" square tube of 16 gauge steel.

Please someone, tell me I'm wrong. Check that, it's easy to tell me i'm wrong, show me I'm wrong

[the camtender]

I likeee ,

[sik68]

Solid aluminum bar? With all due respect, if this is the case, that thing could be made of steel, and loose a whole pile of weight in the process, while still be stiffer than aluminum.

If i remember my material properties correctly, in general aluminum is 1/3 the weight and 1/3 the stiffness of steel. You could match the stiffness of the aluminum bar assembly with about 60% of the weight by using steel square tube. Weld in crush tubes and tap for the threaded holes. I'm not seeing a need for aluminum bar in this application.

Hope a practicing structures guy chimes in here, since it's been about 30 years since I did these types of calculations, but a 1" square bar of aluminum is roughly as stiff as a 1" square tube of 16 gauge steel.

Please someone, tell me I'm wrong. Check that, it's easy to tell me i'm wrong, show me I'm wrong

You're wrong

Ha, just kidding, I don't know whether you're wrong or not about what's "stiffer." But I don't think they used solid bar stock solely for structural reasons...

1st: Solid bar is easier to weld then tubing. For a skilled welder, this isn't a huge issue, but it is still time consuming. And a welder's time is money.

2nd: Welding in the crush tubes like you mention takes time and several more steps to accomplish.

3rd: The crush tube idea falls flat if the car owner wants to mount anything else to the radiator support. A solid bar design lets the owner drill right in so that he can mount what he wants.

So my guess is that they figured best way to build an affordable aluminum radiator support is with a solid bar.

[Steve1968LS2]

Solid aluminum bar? With all due respect, if this is the case, that thing could be made of steel, and loose a whole pile of weight in the process, while still be stiffer than aluminum.

If i remember my material properties correctly, in general aluminum is 1/3 the weight and 1/3 the stiffness of steel. You could match the stiffness of the aluminum bar assembly with about 60% of the weight by using steel square tube. Weld in crush tubes and tap for the threaded holes. I'm not seeing a need for aluminum bar in this application.

Hope a practicing structures guy chimes in here, since it's been about 30 years since I did these types of calculations, but a 1" square bar of aluminum is roughly as stiff as a 1" square tube of 16 gauge steel.

Please someone, tell me I'm wrong. Check that, it's easy to tell me i'm wrong, show me I'm wrong

You can't polish steel tubing (no, I'm not polishing it.. but I the do offer it)

i will comment once I weigh it.

[Chad-1stGen]

neat