Improving my tri-five suspension

[switchblade327]

Work is resuming on my 1955 Bel Air after a year and half break and I'm trying to figure out how to make the best of the current setup without redoing what's been done so far. I've done a lot of searches, especially on rear suspension setups but the tri-fives have a lot less options then A and F bodies. Basically, I'm trying to acheive a very well handling street car without breaking the bank (if I get to the point where I can afford that, I'll get a Morrisson chassis). At the same time, my daily driver is a miata with performance suspension so I I like my corners and can deal with some ride stiffness.

Currently the car has 2" drop spindles, QA1 coilovers, mcgaughtys upper control arms, offset upper a-arm shafts, poly bushings and will be getting the fattest Hellwig sway bar. My first question is, what can I do to improve this setup without starting from scratch? Are there are tall ball joint options for a tri-five to fix the camber curve? How else can I improve the geometry?

Second question is the rear suspension: It's all stock and has a stock, one-legger rear end. I don't expect the rear end to survive long behind the lt1 so hopefully replacing that at the same time opens up more suspension options. I want to improve the setup on a descent budget so I think a 3 link is out of the question and may be overkill with a mostly stock geometry front end anyway. I've read up a lot on truck arms as one of the few bolt in tri-five setups and I'm thinking about it but it sounds like lower speed, sharp cornering is it's major weak spot and I'm more likely to be doing a lot more of that then blast down turnpikes at triple digit speeds. The air bar is also a bolt in option but I don't want half an air suspension and full Ride Tech street challenge kit + a new rear end is getting close to the Morrison frame in price.

So with all this considered, what should I do for the rear end? Get a new 9", some performance leaf springs + coilovers and call it good? Are there any new rear suspension options for these cars in the last year or so? If some fabrication is necessary, that's fine but I don't really have the facilities for something that's going to require an immense amount of tuning. And what about frame bracing? Is it worth stiffening the frame on a street car?

I figure I'll need around $2k for the complete rear end alone and can probably spend another $1-2k for a good rear suspension. Much more then that and I might as well sell my old parts and buy a frame.



Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Maybe the Air Bar but with coil overs?

[jaybee]

My plan is to get a late Ford 8.8" rear out of an Explorer. They're stock width, have disk brakes, and will take just about whatever power you can reasonably expect to hook up without slicks. Add a good set of leaf springs and shocks, experiment with a rear bar to see if it's needed, good to go. Like you I'm budget constrained and can't go with the latest and greatest but want the best results I can get within budget.

[switchblade327]

Maybe the Air Bar but with coil overs?

That's a really good idea. I'm going to check with Ride Tech to see if thre's any reason that shouldn't work. Theoretically, a spring is a spring no matter if it's a bag or a coil, right?

My plan is to get a late Ford 8.8" rear out of an Explorer. They're stock width, have disk brakes, and will take just about whatever power you can reasonably expect to hook up without slicks. Add a good set of leaf springs and shocks, experiment with a rear bar to see if it's needed, good to go. Like you I'm budget constrained and can't go with the latest and greatest but want the best results I can get within budget.

Yeah, I've seen some guys on Chevytalk have done this and it seems like a good plan. What is your plan for the different bolt pattern? I don't want mine mismatched as I already have wheels. I found a post by one guy who'd had brakes and anxles redrilled my Moser for 5x4.75" and it wound up being $700 when all was said and done (rear end itself + all parts and labor) . Not bad for a posi rear end with discs but I wouldn't coult on being able to get the same prices. Plus, what happens when you need to replace a disc?

Any ideas for the front or an I not going to get any better then this without a frame/subframe?

[ProdigyCustoms]

I would think we could do it. Just today I took a order for Shockwaves and Air springs for someone that did the same thing. He ran air ride arms with shocks and springs until he had the cash for the Air stuff.

I will call tomorrow

[switchblade327]

I would think we could do it. Just today I took a order for Shockwaves and Air springs for someone that did the same thing. He ran air ride arms with shocks and springs until he had the cash for the Air stuff.

I will call tomorrow

Awesome, it sounds like that might be my best bet. The truck arms are tempting too but from everything I've read, the 4 link is probably the best match for this car's intended use and my budget. I guess the main question is would coilovers bolt right in or need some fab work to fit?

I tried calling ridetech earlier but the line was busy so I left a message on their tech forum asking about it.

[jaybee]

My plan for the front is to box the lower control arm, rework the upper control arm mount for more caster, sway bar, and cut coils for lowering. The cut coils put the UCA into a more advantageous part of the camber curve as compared to drop spindles with stock-height springs. If you want to go a different route look here for Marcus at SC&C, they have extended ball joints that are pretty trick. I don't know if the extended ball joints AND lowering coils would work together, though.

[switchblade327]

My plan for the front is to box the lower control arm, rework the upper control arm mount for more caster, sway bar, and cut coils for lowering. The cut coils put the UCA into a more advantageous part of the camber curve as compared to drop spindles with stock-height springs. If you want to go a different route look here for Marcus at SC&C, they have extended ball joints that are pretty trick. I don't know if the extended ball joints AND lowering coils would work together, though.

Rework the mount as in the guilderwhatsutcalled mod thing? My coilovers are mounted on the lowest spring perch so the effect should be the same. I thought about those ball joints but they don't offer any for a tri-five.

[ProdigyCustoms]

I can do the Air Bar with coil overs. give me a call and we can talk about it. I really think this is the best plan.

four zero seven 832 1752

[jaybee]

Don't know if the mod has a name, but you cut the welds that hold the "spring hat" to the frame, leaving the one at the rear of the "hat" intact, then shove of it toward the outside. It will only go a short distance before the stamping underneath will try to force it upward. That's where you stop and weld it all solid.

[55chevyman]

i am currently having the same problem, keep us updated with what you decide to do.