Idler Arm question

[TnBlkC230WZ]

Did they may more than one idler arm for the third gen Novas? I ask because mine is hitting the right header where it pivits. Is it possible it is a replacement that is bent slightly different? If so, what is the most accurate replacement part?

I installed my new Dougs headers #368 and they fit great except it is resting against the idler arm where it pivots on the frame mount. I'm hoping it is an idler arm issue because I can easily get to all my plugs with angle plug heads and I can get to the starter wiring from the top.

[David Pozzi]

There are some variations.
Can you post a pic of your current idler?

[TnBlkC230WZ]

Here is the pic. By the way your 1st gen suspsension sight is awesome. It was my first stop for this problem.

[Ranaexcavating]

The difference in the arms is limited to the arm length (5.25" - almost 6") and would not make any difference in where the contact is in your case. I would check the header application. Check the engine frame mounts and see if they are from a big block? I believe they shift the engine to one side but not sure which one.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

Will it hurt to bend the arm a little? I only need 1/16 to 1/8 inch.

[David Pozzi]

I doubt it's easy to bend. You might be able to insert a washer between the idler and frame on the upper bolt. Too much angle change would probably cause binding of the linkage.

That idler is a stock type, probably the thinnest you will find. Many of them have plastic bushings inside and the header heat will hurt them.

I was wondering if you could unbolt it from the frame and rotate the shaft 180 degrees, that would move it away a lot. Then add some spacers to move it back towards the headers. The spacers would need to be 1" diameter and probably 3/8" to 1/2" thick.
David

[TnBlkC230WZ]

I doubt it's easy to bend. You might be able to insert a washer between the idler and frame on the upper bolt. Too much angle change would probably cause binding of the linkage.

That idler is a stock type, probably the thinnest you will find. Many of them have plastic bushings inside and the header heat will hurt them.

I was wondering if you could unbolt it from the frame and rotate the shaft 180 degrees, that would move it away a lot. Then add some spacers to move it back towards the headers. The spacers would need to be 1" diameter and probably a half inch thick.
David

That is an idea worth trying. I would probably put a 1" wide, 1/2" thick plate in for a spacer, then shim from there. I just want to make sure my geometery doesn't get too messed up.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

The difference in the arms is limited to the arm length (5.25" - almost 6") and would not make any difference in where the contact is in your case. I would check the header application. Check the engine frame mounts and see if they are from a big block? I believe they shift the engine to one side but not sure which one.

Took a closer look at the idler arm. If it were 3/4 inch down, it would probably clear the header. The header is bending towards the engine at that point. What do I need to measure to see how long mine is? Mine is 7.5 inches from the very top to the very bottom. Heck, maybe I have the wrong idler arm!

[Ranaexcavating]

Took a closer look at the idler arm. If it were 3/4 inch down, it would probably clear the header. The header is bending towards the engine at that point. What do I need to measure to see how long mine is? Mine is 7.5 inches from the very top to the very bottom. Heck, maybe I have the wrong idler arm!

No, the arm is the part that connects to the center link not the frame mount.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

Mine is all one piece. The part that connects to the frame is what is giving me grief. I found the one from the frame I bought and it is two piece with a 5.25 inch frame mount. It has a different shape, but it hits as well. If I redrill the bottom frame mounting hole, moving it forward about 1/2 inch, everything fits. Just not sure what this will do to my handling and driving.

[MrQuick]

Could you ding the header pipe a bit? 1/8" isn't much.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

That is definitely and option. I was trying to avoid that one

[Ranaexcavating]

Mine is all one piece. The part that connects to the frame is what is giving me grief. I found the one from the frame I bought and it is two piece with a 5.25 inch frame mount. It has a different shape, but it hits as well. If I redrill the bottom frame mounting hole, moving it forward about 1/2 inch, everything fits. Just not sure what this will do to my handling and driving.

I wouldn't drill any new holes to move it. Get a thick washer or make a spacer to add in between the upper mount that shouldn't have any adverse effect on your steering geometry.

Good Luck

[TnBlkC230WZ]

I wouldn't drill any new holes to move it. Get a thick washer or make a spacer to add in between the upper mount that shouldn't have any adverse effect on your steering geometry.

Good Luck

I will try that first. I was also thinking of welding an extension onto the idler bracket and drilling the hole in that. that would easily let me go back to the original mount points. I would only need a 1/4 inch of movement to make that work.