Introducing - Project 1/2-TRAK

[David Sloan]

The seal flange is definitely making contact early.

I'll get a couple of pics up in a few hours.

OK for get about moving the hinge mounts at this time.

It sounds like you will have to cut in to the flange area to fix this problem, hard to tell with out seeing it.

[796spdbu]

Im not sure if this will help,but it worked for a friend of mine. He couldnt get his glass fenders or trunk lid to fit the shape of his car either. His solution was to lay down a few towels and set a few weights on the high spots and let gravity do its thing. It took maybe 2 weeks worth of sitting but they finnally lined up. I guess in a last ditch effort you may try his way..then while you wait......you could..umh..maybe start on that under coating????

[redfire69]

Try installing the bump stops too at the back. I noticed this did affect the fitment at front, on my car at least. And the hinge point could get moved up or down depending on how much metal has been removed. When I got my car I did not have a reference point since most of the back half was removed and the area around the hinges and package tray were sagging down (quarters, inner/outer ww, trunk floor, frame rails, tail pan gone).

[Damn True]

I removed 3/16-1/4" of material from the trunk lid and re-glassed it. Helped a bit but the two leading corners of the lid are still sitting too "proud". I am going to try the bump stop on the trailing edge tonight.

[Damn True]

Screw it!

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=55235

Anyone want a fiberglass decklid? I'm certain that the issue is fixable, I just don't want to mess with it any more.

[TitoJones]

LOL!

That was the fastest sale thread in PT history. 4 minutes from posting to sold.
Tyler

[Damn True]

Knocked out a couple of things tonight.

Had to re-clock the brake cooling ducts on the spindles because they were going to hit the frame. So I had to disassemble the spindle & hub. Easier than it sounds with the fine instructions on Tylers website. How many mfr's post this kind of detail on their website?

Data sheets and install instructions here: http://www.t56kit.com/downloads/

The spindle instructions here: http://www.americantouringspecialtie...ds/files/7.pdf

In the process of re-clocking the backing plate/duct I had to relocate the three holes that are used to clamp the backing plate between the spindle and hub. In doing so I have discovered my new favorite tool.

The uni-bit is freaking awesome! Where have these things been all my life!?!?!?!



So got that done on both sides pretty easily and went to work on a little more lightweight love.



These things weigh NO-THING. Two of them together weigh a tick under 1/2 of just one of the steel OE units. And......super-bonus.....they FIT! I did have to drill all the holes, but hell, that's a whole lot easier than......don't get me started.....



See....they fit! Sweet.




...and yeah....I'm blowing off the VFN decklid and getting this:



Anyone wanna take on the task of finishing fitting that fiberglass unit is welcome to it. I'm out of talent and patience with it. PM me and we can agree on a fair price.

[Damn True]

Carbon fiber goodness arrived on the brown truck today.

Oooooooh.......sexy........light........shiny..... ...

I almost hate to paint it.

[WS6]

So don't

Glad to hear the inner fenders went in easier than the deck lid did. I love uni-bits as well.

[Damn True]

So don't

Glad to hear the inner fenders went in easier than the deck lid did. I love uni-bits as well.

Too shiny.

[MrQuick]

Too shiny.

just scuff it up with some 80 grit. LOL

Your gonna be pretty tail lite now.


vince

[Damn True]

just scuff it up with some 80 grit. LOL

Your gonna be pretty tail lite now.


vince

There's gonna be an LS, glass inners and a composite hood up front, a cage, fuel cell (and structure) and the 3-link out back. Should work out fine.

Shipka's car came out with about 46% on the rear and he is all steel.

I think I might be able to improve on that a bit.

[Code Red]

so are you itchy enough yet? lol thats the only bad thing about fiberglass

[Damn True]

Switched to carbon. It fits really nicely.

If anyone wants the VFN fiberglass decklid I'll sell it to them CHEAP. I just ran out of talent and motivation to get it fitted.

[WS6]

You can always add ballast to the rear if necessary. I say lighten it up as much as possible first. Then add back what you need to if you need to at all.

You could spray flat clear over the CF parts to make them less shiny but still show the fiber

[bingham72]

Very nice project. I'll be following your sets when i get to painting my subframe. I think the history behind it is awesome. It reminded me of a couple other Playboy "vehicles" I remember seeing from my past. I hope this gives you a little inspiration as to where to include the "Bunny" when you get around to it. I think in the headrests would be cool.

[Damn True]

Thanks. Make sure you check the factory welds around the UCA mounts very closely. One of mine was cracked.

I don't think I'll use the actual bunny logo. It just reminds me too much of the bunny logo air fresheners. There will be a touch of pink incorporated in the car.

Where and how will remain a surprise.

[hotrdblder]

i have steel fenders, hood, etc my suspension, tq arm rear, dry sump ls, 12 point cage using 1.75x.134 tubing, car weighed 3190 on my intercomp deluxe scales, with a 52/48 weight, front weight is 6 lbs off side to side, rear is 21, and battery is on heavy side.
you will be all set true and will probably end up 51/49, do some set back and your there.

[Damn True]

Good info, thanks Jake.

I'm considering a few other weight saving measures as well. I really hope to get this thing at or below 3k

[zman1969]

really- under 3k good luck with all that how bout this logo for ya?