700r4?

[lt1chevelle]

is it true that some 700r4 will not hold first gear and will automaticaly shift out of first? i am talking about when you are trying to shift the trani manually. also how do you tell if you have a lock up or non lock up trani?

[eric1967]

You can adjust shift points by changing springs & weights around on the govenor. I think B&M sell a kit to adjust the govenor.

[Chad-1stGen]

All 700r4s are lockup if I remember correctly. Best to get a lockup kit setup for use in OD at least.

I ran a few 700r4's one upon a time and regularly shifted at 7K rpm's 1st and 2nd and never had problems with premature shifting.

[critter]

Not all 700r4s are lockup. They can be setup with a non-lockup which is often done in heavy cars since the lockup clutches fail. Stock 700r4s should be lockup. AFAIK only aftermarket transmissions are converted to non-lockup.

I think the question is, if he manually shifts the transmission, will it hold in first gear until he manually shifts it into second gear. Is that correct?

[6'9"Witha69]

That is correct.

[lt1chevelle]

yes that is what i am asking. also is there a way to tell if its a lock up tranny or not? i bought the car and the tranny came with it and all the guy told me was it is a 700r4 back then i didnt know they had lock and non lock trannys. i most likely have to have the tranny rebuilt and was wouldering what you guys would recommend i was going to go with the http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku with a stall converter in the 3000's

[6'9"Witha69]

I prefer the Hughes parts.

And stay away from a converter over 3000 for the street. 2800 at most considering the cam but the 3.73 allow a little less stall.

[buddyholly]

All 700r4's were factory lock up. You can run a non lock up converter if you like. As long as no one blocked off the lock up circuit and the lock up solonoid is still in place you can assume lock up will work on the tranny. Pick a lock up converter from a good company and lock up should work fine.

[lt1chevelle]

why is a lock up better than a non lock up? or is it even better? yea ill most likely go with a 3000 stall

[6'9"Witha69]

Lock up creates a 1:1 ratio in the TC like a clutch in full engagement. The lockup clutch is thin and can't handle a lot of TQ and HP during lockup but since there is no slipping like when not locked up it keeps tranny temps down which helps extend the life of the trans as 700s are tempermental with overheated fluid fluid (read: it will burn up the clutch packs FAST). Besides, you better MPG on the highway with the lockup TC.

[Chad-1stGen]

I ran a painless 4th gear lockup kit. The nice thing about it was it was vacum actuated so anytime you loaded it up in would unlock. I blew up 4 tranny's and never once had a problem related to the lock up.

[lt1chevelle]

i think ill go with a non lock up im not to worried around the extra gas milage and what not. i am still debating if i should built this tranny. with the new valve body, rebuild kit,shift kit,and converter im looking at almost 1500 and thats just for parts

[6'9"Witha69]

700s are a lot more complicated than 350s and 400s. If you have never built a tranny (or 20+), then please don't try htis without a lot of help from someone experienced.

And please reconsider the lockup. If you do any freeway driving or higher speed street driving under the stall then you WILL burn up the trans very quickly.

Take it from a guy who has gone through 6 700s built by various reputable shops. And BTW, the stage 3 bowtie overdrives trans is only 1800 or so with core and will work beautifully.

[vp23271]

700s are a lot more complicated than 350s and 400s. If you have never built a tranny (or 20+), then please don't try htis without a lot of help from someone experienced.

And please reconsider the lockup. If you do any freeway driving or higher speed street driving under the stall then you WILL burn up the trans very quickly.

Take it from a guy who has gone through 6 700s built by various reputable shops. And BTW, the stage 3 bowtie overdrives trans is only 1800 or so with core and will work beautifully.

I met the guys from Bowtie Overdrives at the Del Mar car show and liked how they packaged ever thing into "stages". I am also in the market for a transmission and was considering the 200-4r or 700r4 Stage 2.
http://http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/index.shtml

[6'9"Witha69]

My first 700 was put in by them in Dec. 1998. It lasted 40,000 HARD miles into 2004. I went through the other 5 from local guys who wouldn't honor a guarantee until I finally went back to Bowtie. Picked up a stage 3 in 2006 and it has been perfect ever since. The TV made easy kit is also just that, EASY yet effective.

Hell, after install I overrrevved it holding second and blew the drum, they had it fixed and back in my truck in under an hour. These guys know these trannys!

[lt1chevelle]

as for the converter ill look into it. but i think ill need the stage 4 tranny my motor now makes almost 425 rwhp and i will be adding a 150 shot to it.

[6'9"Witha69]

I run a stage 3 behind a 508hp, 542 lbft 383. For it to live with my my right foot, it is hella strong. Plus, talk to them about the satage 4 as you lose streetability with the constant pressure levels they use in that one.

[lt1chevelle]

when u say govenor do you mean servo?

You can adjust shift points by changing springs & weights around on the govenor. I think B&M sell a kit to adjust the govenor.

[lt1chevelle]

im looking at buying the stage 2 do you know if they come with any warranty? i looked on the web site but did not see anything

I met the guys from Bowtie Overdrives at the Del Mar car show and liked how they packaged ever thing into "stages". I am also in the market for a transmission and was considering the 200-4r or 700r4 Stage 2.
http://http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/index.shtml

[class67]

I have the stage III in my car and absolutely love it...no problems!!!