Pontiac 350

[Smock67]

Well im getting my block ready for my camshaft installation and probably a quick paint. So I'm bassically stripping it down all the way. How do i get the crank pulley off it just doesn't seem to want to come off. Also if anyone has any suggestions or tips for a camshaft installation feel free to put those in aswell.

I'll check this in a bit i gotta get back out to the garage.

[astroracer]

Is this a "real" Pontiac 350? What Year? The balancer on a Pontiac crank is not pressed on like a Chevy balancer. You should be able to pull it right off after you remove the balancer bolt. At the least, a little help from a pulley remover should free it up enough to pull it off.
Mark

[PT Goat]

Safest way to do it is with a puller. If that won't work, two prybars or large screwdrivers will get it moving, and then you should be able to pull it off by hand.

[Underdog]

Is it a small block chevy 350? Or a "real" Pontiac 350? If its a "real" Pontiac it is actually 354 cid. What year, what heads, what cam are you installing, etc? Are you sure you removed all of the bolts? The center of the pulley is probably just stuck on the snout. I won't hurt to spray it with some penetrating fluid if you haven't all ready. Try giving it a few taps with a hammer, hard enough to jar it but not hard enough to damage it, then try to removing it agian. A puller is the best way, if you have one.

[Skip Fix]

Some of them often are stuck on. You need a puller.Most of the "normal" balancer pullers aren't wide enough for the Pontiac 4 bolt pattern. I modified a steering wheel puller and made it just a hair wider.

[CamaroLance]

I had to use a puller on my old pontiac. Autozone will rent you one.

[Smock67]

I got a puller from Autozone through its loaner tool program just haven't had time to finish it off.

Is it a small block chevy 350? Or a "real" Pontiac 350? If its a "real" Pontiac it is actually 354 cid. What year, what heads, what cam are you installing, etc? Are you sure you removed all of the bolts? The center of the pulley is probably just stuck on the snout. I won't hurt to spray it with some penetrating fluid if you haven't all ready. Try giving it a few taps with a hammer, hard enough to jar it but not hard enough to damage it, then try to removing it agian. A puller is the best way, if you have one.

Real pontiac 350 its out of a 71 firebird from what the previous owner told me. Not sure what heads. Im installing a Comp Cams Magnum 270H cam with lifter and 995 valve springs with there new timing gear set. The engine currently has 750 edelbrock carb and there Torker RPM manifold.

[Underdog]

There should be a casting number on the center two exhaust ports of each head.

[Smock67]

There should be a casting number on the center two exhaust ports of each head.

They are #46 Heads.

[SPECWARSQUID]

They are #46 Heads.

Those aren't '71 heads. What is the 4 digit casting date codes? (located up and to the right of the head casting code)

Shay
____________
Semper Fortis

[Smock67]

OK well I just checked the head casting codes and the drivers said L182 and the passengers said L062.

[ho428]

If the block is cast 350 on the side I'd venture a guess it's a 73 350, low compression 96 cc head, small valves. Good strong block though.

[Underdog]

They look like 1973 #46 heads. Pontiac used the #46 casting code 1969, 1973 and 1974. The date codes translate to December 18, 1972 and December 6, 1972. These were cast in late '72 but would have gone on a 1973 model.

The 1973 #46 were far from a high performance head. They would be small valve, 1.96/1.66, low compression head(somewhere between 7.0 to 7.5:1 comp ratio on a 354) with pressed in rocker studs. A bigger cam will leak off even more cylinder pressure further reducing the dynamic compression of the engine. The good news is you can probably run the low grade(cheapest) gas in it without any problems.

If the engine is also a '73 it may have the no valve relief pistons, so you have to be carefull how much lift a cam has because of possible piston to valve clearance.

The pressed in rocker studs are also a problem. They have a tendency to pull out with cams that are more aggesive than the stock cams.

Another problem with these engines is valve to cylinder wall clearance with higher lift cams because they have tiny bores. Usually on the exhaust valve.

IMHO the only way you'll get decent performance out of this engine is with a head swap.

If your planning a future engine build I'd consider not spending any money on this one, at least not until you find out more about it. And put any money you put towards it into a new engine fund. One of the good things about Pontiac engines is the parts are interchangeable to just about all the other engines. Headers, intakes, cams etc.. So some of the parts you have now could be used on a future engine most likely.

Pontiac 350's can make good power but this looks like a smog era engine, the smog era engines take a lot to get good power out of.

[SPECWARSQUID]

Forget about the "Nay Sayers"

A Pontiac 350 being a Pontiac 350 wouldn't stop me from building it. They have been built to deliver respectible numbers even when you accept Dyno variances and "possible" author embelishments.

Read Car Craft's P 350 build: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...50s/index.html

What i find most appealing about these types of neglected motors is that because of different people's beliefs that you are better off to swap out to a larger more "disereble" displacement, it makes these motors more plentiful (with respect to 400s and 455s) and inexpensive to obtain. Especically when you consider the 350's part compatability with all other true Pontiac engine types. With the obivious exception of the 301.

I say build it and have a blast


Shay
____________
Semper Fortis

[ho428]

Forget about the "Nay Sayers"

A Pontiac 350 being a Pontiac 350 wouldn't stop me from building it.

I say build it and have a blast


Shay
____________
Semper Fortis

Agree, build it.
But better heads sure would help along with the common performance swap parts.
KRE will build small valve High Comp aluminum heads and unshroud the valve. Or just get a set of stock #17's, pretty good head and at 72 cc should give low to mid 9's for compression with a properly prepped block and pistons.
The stroker kits for Pontiac 350's are just starting to get interest. Max cubes isn't always the answer for sure, depends on the total package you're building. And getting torque from a Pontiac is easy. The high rpm HP is the tough part, but on the street just how often do you really plan to spank it past 6500 rpm.
All that being said though, a 400 is a better build for the buck.
But you have the 350 and 350-375 hp should be doable fairly easy, over 400 hp take a little more effort and $$$.
What ever you do, keep it Pontiac

[Underdog]

Keep it Pontiac, for sure. A 400 is a much better bang for the buck. The 350 can make good power, it depends on how much power you want to make.

Keep in mind the engine in the above link would cost close to $10,000 to build.

[ho428]

Blazed, make an appointment and head up above Tampa to Brooksville and talk to Ken one day, he's sometimes slow to respond on email. He can fix you up with one of the best Pontiac engine builds around. Give him your budget and he'll tell what's doable.
He's one of the Best Pontiac builders in the country.

http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/pontiacdude428/

[Underdog]

I agree Ken, aka Pontiac Dude, is good.

[ho428]

Blazed, I guess we all got a little off from your original request but if I read everything right, upping the cam in that engine is not the best move if it's the low compression engine we think it is.
Underdog hit most of the issues with doing a cam swap on it. If you're expecting big performance gains to happen, they probably won't.

But a puller will get the dampener off, make sure you oil the fuel pump cam during reassembly and reinstall the cam plate. Check to make sure the cam turns freely before putting the gear set and lifters in, sometimes a new cam will be tight against the retainer. You'll need to check push rod length as well. Shouldn't be off but check rocker to valve tip location.
I assume you're going back with the stock stamped rockers? You say you're changing springs? Another 350 small valve head can of worms to check there. The press in studs being one.

I'd do a little more homework before starting this cam swap project. You've got a decent block, crank and rods, cam, chain, intake and carb. Get some good pistons (inexpensive Clevites will be fine if the budget is tight, and deck the block), new oil pump and #17 or eq. heads and you'll have a decent little 350.
I just built a .060 over 9.5:1 Pontiac 350 for about $1200 but I already had the heads, they're fairly easy to find though and not very expensive.

[Smock67]

Wow I never expected this thread to get so much response. For right now i just want a little more oomph out of the stock engine until i can afford to do what i really want.

Anyway here's the specs on the cam

Intake Exhaust
Valve Adjustment 0 0
Gross Valve Lift 0.476 0.476
Duration At 0.006 Tappet Lift 270 270
Valve Timing At 0.006
Open Close
Intake 29 61
Exhaust 69 21
These Specs Are For The Cam Installed At 106 Intake CL
Intake Exhaust
Duration At 0.05 224 224
Lobe Lift 0.313 0.313
Lobe Separation 110

I didn't get anything to aggressive for a reason just something streetable. Now that i know what i know whats the easiest way to make all this work i have money just i dont want to throw to much in this engine.