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    Results 1 to 8 of 8
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      South Austin- Texas
      Posts
      235
      Country Flag: United States

      Subframe - fix or replace?

      I'm working on redoing my 68 Firebird and currently making a decision on what to do with the subframe. I want to keep a stock subframe, but mine has some issues.

      No rust however the skid plate that is just below the engine balance is caved in a bit. also the frame ends, furthest back are curled out as if the car was hung up on a lip or cable at some point in its life. The other thing I noticed was, when I installed solid body mounts, the top surface of the tube was caved in. when I tightened the bolts it straightened that out some.



      The metal is somewhat easy to work but should I? Or would it be wiser to find a frame that is in better shape to start? Does it make any sense to take this to a frame shop? I've never used that service.

      Thanks folks!


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2002
      Posts
      777
      Country Flag: United States
      Do you feel there are safety issues with the integrity of the frame?

      Items such as cracked welds or minor rust through where body mounts were are easily repaired.

      If the panels will hang straight and the alignment is good I'd keep it, no one is going to see those minor issues.

      A used subframe should be about $500.

      --JMarsa

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Henderson,NV
      Posts
      2,870
      Country Flag: United States
      I have a restored frame with all the DSE goodies in the for sale section. I assume it works for a firebird as well. Check it out.
      Todd

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      South Austin- Texas
      Posts
      235
      Country Flag: United States
      Hey Todd

      I saw your post, that frame and setup is damn nice. For my plans the only things I could use are the frame and steering box! I have the rest of the equipment new. I appreciate the bump though.

      Jmarsa, Thanks for the input. As far as I can tell the frame is straight and undamaged other than what I listed. The integrity is fine, and the panels line up. Maybe I'm being a bit obsessive?

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Apr 2002
      Posts
      777
      Country Flag: United States
      It really depends on what you want out of the car. If it's a driver, get it back on the road asap and enjoy. If there's a $$ amount you want it to be worth for resale, do what you need to.

      If the work you described can be done yourself or doesn't impact your budget you might want to take care of them so they don't bother you down the road.

      --JMarsa

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      USA, TN
      Posts
      850
      if you are concerned, I'd replace it. Any frame will need some work such as rewelding joints and replacing mounting points, but it shouldn't be hard to find a straight one. $100 - 150 should get you one in decent shape, then fix any mounts and paint or powdercoat.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Central CA USA
      Posts
      6,114
      Country Flag: United States
      It sounds like only cosmetic problems, not really structural. If you can't find a perfect replacement, then bring it to a welding shop and have them fix the little stuff. A frame shop might be more expensive, and this sounds more like a welding shop type of job.
      David
      67 Camaro RS that will be faster than anything Mary owns.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      South Austin- Texas
      Posts
      235
      Country Flag: United States
      It still seems odd to me that the frame caved in at the rear bushings, but I believe that was from the worn rubber units allowing the hinge action. I'm thinking that the solid bushings will prevent this from re-occurring.

      Has anyone ever done anything to beef up the stock frame? Are there any common areas of concern while I have it out? I have already cut the upper arm mounts and redrilled for the G-mod. That was a huge improvement. (thanks for the info Dave! I think I spoke to you about this 8 years ago!)




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