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    Results 1 to 17 of 17
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Milwaukee, Wi.
      Posts
      327

      Aftermarket blocks-sbc

      Which block would you get for a 1000+ hp (406), and why?
      Dart, World or Bowtie (iron)
      Are JE's "shelf" extreme duty, inv. dome pistons strong enough for this build?
      What do you guys think?
      Thanks, Steve



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      mo
      Posts
      1,343
      Brodix or Donovan aluminum block, They handle abuse better and being aluminum helps cool better. all JE parts are worth using there the best piston company out there.

      If you must have a steel block then a Bowtie or Dart, World products stuff is junk there blocks core shift alot and won't stay true.
      Thall shall fear no amount of boost, For thy bottle is with me.......

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Milwaukee, Wi.
      Posts
      327
      I won't be able to afford aluminum, so iron is my only choice.
      Are the Bowtie blocks as strong as Dart blocks? The reason I ask is because they are only "rated" for like 850hp.
      Thanks, Steve

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      mo
      Posts
      1,343
      I never had a problem with a bowtie block, have built acouple 900-1k hp dirt late model engines with them, and no problems
      Thall shall fear no amount of boost, For thy bottle is with me.......

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      mo
      Posts
      1,343
      either block would be a choice
      Thall shall fear no amount of boost, For thy bottle is with me.......

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Milwaukee, Wi.
      Posts
      327
      Thanks for the info, steve

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      Dart/World have same cast company from what I see just use different moulds. GM performance blocks also made in same place, for a 400 cid look around for used ones save a bunch as long as it can be over bored.
      But so far I have been using Motown blocks for 400in+ units and never had a failure.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Milwaukee, Wi.
      Posts
      327
      I would not trust a 400 production block for 1000+ hp. I would also like to be able to "grow" with a new block.
      I have heard (no first hand knowledge) that the Motown stuff tends to suffer from core shift.
      Steve

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      not talking about used stock was talking about used aftermarket blocks.
      i have built some decent engines from Motowns and besides I have had same issue with Darts blocks its up to builder to inspect everpart before any machinework or labor gets done(this means find a reputable shop to double check the shift with sonic check).
      I have found several good aftermarket blocks to build "400"s from from the roundy,round racers.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      Cleveland, ohio
      Posts
      127

      1000 Hp

      Dart block here in my 6/71 blown nova. i went with WEISCO custom made pistoms because JE didn't have any pistons that would drop my comp. down enought for my 52cc afr heads . works good
      1971 Chevy Nova SS
      Pro Street Touring
      6-71 Blown 400 Dart Block-800 HP
      LS1 Stage V T56 Transmission W/ Pro 5.0
      McLeod Street Twin Disc Clutch
      Ford 9" 31 Spline 3.90 Platinum Tru-Trac
      8-Point Roll Cage
      Martz Racing 4-Link Back Half
      Martz Racing Front Half
      Coy's 18" Wheels
      Recaro Seats W/ G-Force 5Pt Harness

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jul 2007
      Location
      Los Angeles, CA
      Posts
      1,303
      I'd go with one of the Dart Compacted Graphite Iron block, lighter and stronger than aluminum, not that much more than a standard iron block.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      May 2000
      Posts
      4,151
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 1969CamaroRS
      I'd go with one of the Dart Compacted Graphite Iron block, lighter and stronger than aluminum, not that much more than a standard iron block.
      Please post a link to some information on this block.

      Lighter and cheaper then aluminum?

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Milwaukee, Wi.
      Posts
      327
      Stronger, not lighter than aluminum.
      Stronger and no heavier than iron, $1,000.00 more though.
      This is from Dart's website.
      Steve

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      SouthWest Florida
      Posts
      11
      All my buds are running Dart blocks (both bigM and lilM's) without any problems. They are running anywhere between 18-30psi with out issues. Hope this helps.

      Scott
      1966 SS Chevy II/Nova. Just an F1 Procharged roller 408 under the hood. Chassisworks front end, Mini tubbed, etc, etc.

      Proudly sponsored by Adam's Polishes. www.adamspolishes.com

      "If it ain't got that whistle...It ain't a missle!"

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      582
      Using CGI, if properly optimized, can result in a lighter overall package. All the new diesel blocks are going to be CGI for this reason.

      http://www.competitiveproduction.com...o=3&issue_no=2

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Milwaukee, Wi.
      Posts
      327
      Just curious, how many of you guys have seen a production block break from too much power/boost (not detonation)?
      I am talking 350 sbc.
      Steve

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Posts
      321
      ive heard good and bad storys from all three blocks. i was going to to use a dart block but the guy thats building my engine says i should buy the world block because it was $400.00 cheaper and it took less machine time to fit my 4.00'' crank.

      next time i might use the dart block if a dont go so big with the stroke.
      1972 Camaro ( my retirement money hole )
      1985 GMC ( future plan pro tour build for the wife )
      1992 Isuzu pup bagged, bodydrop, shaved everything
      2013 GMC Single cab 4/7 drop




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