71 camaro subwoofer ?

[g71rs]

i was wondering what some people have installed
Free air?
Seal?
Band pass?
I was think about putting a infinity bass link II in the trunk, boxing off the 6 x 9.....the installing 2 2" ports in between the 6 x 9
I have the interior and deck lid covered with rammat and their foam also...in the trunk area have rammat installed underside of deck lid and rear seat area...started on trunk floor in back ..

Will this work....help.... ideas
I dont want to set any car alarms off or be heard a block away...
Hip hop, rock music

[andrewb70]

Personally I am not a big fan of 6x9 speakers in the rear deck unless they are strictly there to provide a little rear fill. In my GTO I have the Boston Acoustics 6.5Pro 2 way system in the front. They 6.5s are mounted in the kick panels and the tweeters are mounted high on the a-pillars. In sub is mounted under the rear deck firing up at the rear glass. I picked a sub that can work with a smallish sealed enclosure. A single 10" Diamond Audio does the trick for me. The amp is an Xtant 603e. Simple.

Andrew

[AButler]

A Jeep box will fit 2 10"s into the trunk. That is about the only box i could find that would fit. Takes up some room though.

[RSX302]

I'm using a custom enclosure with 2-EF10 CDT Audio 10" subs ported to 28hz with approx 300watts each. (Paralleled with one channel bridged on a Zapco 1000.4 Amp) They are very tight, very clean sounding and can shake the cr@p out of everything big time.
I know your not looking at bass to this level, but I want to say you can have 1000watts and not be what I putting out if its not done correctly. Go with a sealed or vented enclosure for the best sound. I agree with Andrew about the 6x9's.

Some extra 2 pennies...
Bass can be as easy as buying a prefab'd box and stuffing in the trunk or as complex as a custom built efficient SQ sub enclosure. It's all about what you are willing to do. (learn or settle for) I won't be able to explain all the details about sub enclosures in this forum, but I hope this helps a little.

To get the most out of your bass enclosure, build a box in the trunk behind the seat and aim to the tail lights. Don't put a small speaker in a big box or a big speaker in a small box. It will sound terrible... Most speaker manufactures will have specs, but if you want to venture further, check out this program, Very cool...

http://www.linearteam.dk/default.asp...load=winisdpro

Build the box you are willing to sacrifice or can fit in the trunk and this software can help you find the right speaker. It has speakers within the program, but you can enter your own as well.

Since you don't want allot of bass, 8's can do just fine. I've used 8's before that hit pretty hard.

Here's a good article to read:
http://www.cdtaudio.com/howto_chose_woofer.htm

Bass requires a specific distance at a given frequency to be at its most efficient to the ears. This part can make your eyes go cross. Sorry if I went to far…

[WS6]

Do not put rammat on the bracing behind the rear seat. This will only prevent the sound waves form coming forward into the cabin area. Putting it on the shelf is fine.

[HWYSTR]

Not all may agree with me and my install, but I have to say, it works very well, and all who have heard it agree.

In the rear deck, I used a 1" thick piece of hardwood, cutout to match the shape of the rear deck, and bolted it to the bottom of the deck. I then made cutouts for a pair of 6x9s and a 12" sub in the center.

Yes, it's free air, though keep in mind that in a free air installation, much less power is required to drive it. If you really wanted to, you could change the phase to 180 out, but I found no benefit in sound quality in doing so.

I run a pair of clean 100x2 @4 ohm amps, the particular sub I'm using is a dual-coil, and I don't bridge the amp for the sub. It is very loud and clear, with great bass, and there's no reason to run any other speakers in my opinion. Front speakers would be drowned out at anything above 1/3 volume. If one would choose, maybe a set of tweeters on the dash could be used, but that would be a matter of preference.

In my A-Body, I was able to squeeze 2 10" subs with 6x9s, and it has the same type of performance. On the back of the seats I mounted a board that holds the amps, and I covered it with interior vinyle. You can kind of see the board I mounted on the rear deck in the amp pic since the sealant bead I ran (to reduce vibrations) is white. Duh. I also took the opportunity to use the power run to the trunk to power relays for accessories in the trunk.

Sorry I didn't have pics for the 2nd gen install, I'm at work!

[HWYSTR]

Oh, I do have a couple pics of a single sub install that I did in my daughter's 442, which would be similar to the F body install. Note: In all these pics, they were shot during install, and have been cleaned up since!

[andrewb70]

Oh, I do have a couple pics of a single sub install that I did in my daughter's 442, which would be similar to the F body install. Note: In all these pics, they were shot during install, and have been cleaned up since!

I don't doubt that the freeair subs might work OK, but using 6x9s in the back as the only other speakers may not offer the best sound stage. I am sure it works. Having a good front sound stage is very important. Just my opinion. Sound systems are like color and wheel styles. Very objective.

Andrew

[RSX302]

I was think about putting a infinity bass link II in the trunk, boxing off the 6 x 9.....the installing 2 2" ports in between the 6 x 9
I have the interior and deck lid covered with rammat and their foam also...in the trunk area have rammat installed underside of deck lid and rear seat area...started on trunk floor in back ..

Will this work....help.... ideas
I dont want to set any car alarms off or be heard a block away...
Hip hop, rock music

Back to the question you started with after I went off on a tangent. sorry!

I'm sure the Infinity unit will work fine. This would be the easiest set-up. You can rammat all metal surfaces and it won't hurt anything. To get the most out of it, you will need to add a vented opening like you say. I have one 10" round opening on my back deck to allow bass to come thru. If you get this unit, play with the direction you point it in the trunk and frequency as its adjustable from 50-120hz. I would suspect you won't need to go over 85hz. Don't bother with boxing the 6x9's, they will be fine.

Another note..bass will find its way thru the back deck if its not to insulated. Try it without porting first, if you have a factory rear deck panel, it may be ok. Just perforate the cardboard panel under the cloth. like factory does. You won't even see it...

[fastercar68]

I echo ronracer's comments. This is the original free air trunk system I've had in my '68 since 1988. The bass hits pretty good, and used to be the top system among my friends until they got custom $3000+ sealed-box systems of their own. I daydream every now and then whether to redo the bass portion with a single 12" or 13.5" JL W6 in a sealed box firing backwards, but then the cost of the project jolts me back to reality.

[HWYSTR]

Andrew- You are certainly correct about how important the sound stage is, without a doubt. On an F body though (and in ways an A body as well), incorrectly mounted and/or facing front speakers can detract from sound stage just as much as it can add to it. One question though, where do you center the sound stage?

So what are the mounting options for front speakers in an F or A body? Best would be at the top of the A pillar, by location alone, pointing slightly down and towards the center of the interior, but that's not possible. Which leaves the kick panel or door, correct? Guess you could use the area in front of the dash pad, but not many are willing to chop into that, especially considering it attacks the structure/ridgedness of that area.

Kick panel - A rearward facing, somewaht upward as well, towards the center of the roof would be optimal, but a passenger would disrupt the sound for the driver, and driver for the passenger.

Door - Lower portion is pretty much the same problem as the kick panel, and a higher mount in the door limits the speaker selection. If the speaker is overpowered by the rears, sound stage is gone, correct? So why have the front speakers limit what you can run in the back, and overall volume of the entire system?

If a loud system isn't a concern, and your normal listening level is somewhat low (comparitively), then components is the way to go, running a sealed sub. 4- 6.5 speakers with separate tweeters would allow you place them appropriately with relevance to the sound stage, correct? Top-front of the doors would be best for the front, and you could mount the tweeters maybe on the top of the pillar post, or bounce it off the windshield with a surface mount. Rears in the deck, bounce it off the glass, or maybe in the rear panels. Maybe do tweeters even in the corner of the top-forward part of the panel. Could use a 10" sub mounted in the deck, with a small box built behind it. What do you all think? Sound about right?

I know my system design isn't the best in my cars, but for the money, and since it really doesn't chop the car up (much), feel it's enough for the type of listening I do. My dad hates the sound of the A body setup, since you have to turn it up a little for it to sound right, and he doesn't like it loud. Well, that's not as much of an issue now since his hearing is going! Anyway, I would love to have front speakers, and wish I could do 6.5s.

[g71rs]

hey thanks everyone for the information...well i did buy these items...i found what i thought was a good deal....on net

refurbished infinity bass link II amplified 250 watts 10" woofer and 10" passive radiator...148.00 i also bought two 2" port tubes and drilled
and installed them in between the 6x9 ...i also made them inside of a ten inch circle in case i wanted to try a sub later...if that makes sense

refurbished kicker zx 250.2 2 channel amp 85 RMS to power 2 6x9 has crossover in it for high pass 59.00

Infinity 6"x9" Reference 9623i 3-way Speakers new 68.00
wall-mart had 6x9 boxes... so installed them under the rear deck lid..so the base link woofer wouldn't effect the 6 x9

bought a kicker amp kit was 4 gauge power wire..then a terminal block that has 4- 8 gauge power wire outlets

the original dash speaker i modified the old 4 x 10 speaker and put two 3 1/2 kicker impulse two ways in....

head unit jvc unit 25 watts was going to put 200k (bass blockers)filters..to run 3 1/2 in dash...i have a old alpine 3525 amp 60 RMS watts that i could use if i need more power for front....

I'm still waiting on my dash to get back from just dashes....i have more of the wiring to do yet

i post back in a few weeks...

[hessdawg]

i have 4 10 inch IB pioneer in the rear deck of my trans am.
If the trunk is sealed from the cabin IB or freeair will pound. I love mine
www.sounddomain.com/id/hessdawg