Project P.o.s. Part 2

[shep]

I would wire brush what I could get at and use rust a converter or encapsulater on it. For inside the a A pillar you could put a rag on a wire dip it in the encapsulater and run it through.

[mikey]

I would media blast or sand it the best I could or $$$ allow then rust mort etch prime and epoxy prime. 3M makes a nice wheel called strip and clean for die grinders the only problem is it's only 1/2 wide. It stripps away rust and paint with minimal thinning of metal works great for small areas. You might try that along with a wire wheel.

[bart007]

Wow, if the lkq part is in good condition, I would have cut the roof in the middle of the a-pillars and in the middle of the sail panels toward the smaller end. Then replaced the whole roof assy as a unit, not quite as much finish work would be needed w/this approach.

[mikey]

Wow, if the lkq part is in good condition, I would have cut the roof in the middle of the a-pillars and in the middle of the sail panels toward the smaller end. Then replaced the whole roof assy as a unit, not quite as much finish work would be needed w/this approach.

True but it means more work splicing in the pillars and potential fit problems if not done correctly. Skinning it would be alot faster and easier for a newbie to get it right.

[70bird]

True but it means more work splicing in the pillars and potential fit problems if not done correctly. Skinning it would be alot faster and easier for a newbie to get it right.

OK, I agree with just re-skinning. This brings up a new set of newbie Q's. (sorry)

How to get the skin off the roof I just bought without killing it? I am not concerned with the spot welded sections, but with the drip molding area that is wrapped around the roof frame. (much like a door skin) Also, the adhesive that is used between the skin and frame was real tough to get separated when I took my old skin off. I ended up using a long pry bar to get it off, and bent it quite a bit in the process. I obviously don't want to use this technique with the new one. So, how to do it?

How far down the A- pillars should I replace?

Thanks for your time, Mark

[mikey]

You should find a seam that runs roughly even with the side (bottom edge) of the skin on the top of the a pillar. As for the sealer a little heat from a small butane lighter helps quite a bit.Not the pencil type but the one the size of a travel deoderant can. Heat up the ribs from the bottom just toasty to the touch. All you are doing is making it easier to cut not burn it out.Then use a slightly flexible putty knife to score it a little each pass. It will take a bit so just take it easy use some wood shims to space it appart as you go to make it a liitle easier to work don't rush or for the issue you will end up bending the skin. As for the drip rail I will do some research I'm not exactly sure of the design on a 2nd gen. I hate to tell you wrong. Also clean out the lead on the sail panels you will find the factory seam under it should be the same way on the a pillar.

[redfire69]

It may be a little too late, but I saw this today... a new skin for $360 (if camaro is the same)...

Also, the seams (if leaded) can be cleaned out with a butane (plumbers) torch as described above. They should be evident at the A-pillar and sail panel. I would recommend a whole re-roof at this point as well.

Ron

http://www.ecklerscamaro.com/product...dept%5Fid=1439

roof skin at ecklers:


getting the lead out: