C6 Brakes Question

[68renner]

I have the Kore3 C6 Z06 Hybrid front brake kit. I was getting everything ready tonight to put the kit on tomorrow and noticed the directional veins and sweep of the drilled holes are the same direction on both rotors. Is this correct or have I gotten stuck with 2 rotors for the same side? Should there be a difference between the right and left rotors??

Also, I'm assuming the line inlet on the calipers should be towards the rear of the car on both sides, is this correct?

Thanks

[brownz]

dont worry i have the complete c6 zo6 brakes and they are the same way. for the front brake rotors this is one of the down falls of these brakes one side is backwards and thats one reason why the high end vette guys swap them out for brembos. for the rear lines have never used the c5/6 rear calipers. are you using the rear e-brake. getting all my front and rear kit for my brakes with the e-brake next week in shipping, i heard that the quality is great.

[Apogee]

The C6 Z51 front and rear OE rotors are directional, left-hand only. The C6 Z06 front rotors are also directional, left-hand rotors, however the rear C6 Z06 rotors are a non-directional pillar vane construction but the drilled holes are directional. This means they're directional in appearance but don't suffer the slight comprimise in cooling performance the others do.

Directional vane rotors are ~20% more efficient at dispersing heat than an equivalent conventional straight vane rotor. The directional vanes are optimized to more more airflow and thereby remove more heat. Most pillar vane designs achieve the same increase in efficiency by a different means, rather than more airflow they have greater turbulence of airflow resulting in a greater heat transfer. Running a directional vane rotor backwards isn't optimal for performance, but GM apparently decided it was adequate and gave them the minimum NVH requirements they wanted to meet and costing goals.

The only place I've seen or heard of issues with these rotors are the guys who are tracking them with fairly aggressive pads...and in those instances, it doesn't appear that the rotors on the right are failing any sooner than the ones on the left.

Tobin
KORE3

[68renner]

Now thats a response!! Thanks for the help guys. Now its off for the install.

brownz:

I only have the front kit for right now, the rear is the next investment. The quality of the kit for the front from Kore3 is amazing. Everything is there and the directions are very clear and helpful. You wont be disappointed. Let me know about the rear kit with e-brake and how the install goes!!

One more question, the car currently has the original 68 camaro proportioning valve on it, i'm assuming this unit is not adjustable and I'm going to have to add an adjustable proportioning valve in the lines somewhere. Is this correct? Also, where is the optimal place to cut into the lines and put an adjustable proportioning valve? Would under the car in the main line from the front to rear work?

[68renner]

uh oh...more questions and problems....the camaro is a 68 which makes it a rear steer car. I assembled the spindles and caliper brackets and mocked up the caliper and the caliper hits the steering arm. The pictures in the assembly manual show the steering arms for a front steer. The kit is suppose to work on a 68....what do I do? How do I fix this??

[Apogee]

The OE proportioning/combination valve will need to be gutted. You never want to run two adjustable proportioning valves in series with each other as the results are interesting to say the least. You can remove the non-adjustable proportioning valve from the block and just use it as a distribution block and still maintain your dummy light for the brake balance switch. Most people install their adjustable proportioning valves on the firewall or a bracket either next to or below the master cylinder to simplify installation and later on, adjustment.

Let's see a picture of the mock-up. Do you know which steering arms you have? There were a couple of different lengths whether the car was manual steering versus power steering, but neither should be a problem. It should work on all A/F/X-bodies...and the Hybrid kit should locate the caliper radially outward further than the standard kit by a long shot...so what's hitting what and where is it hitting?

Tobin
KORE3

[1FstChevy]

Agreed ^^^ everything I've heard from C6 Z06 owners on forums and locally say that there is no performance difference from those who track them, and only a few are irked by the "backwards" veins on one side, but heck if thats just one way they keep the cost so fair on that affordable super car then its fine by me!!!

[68renner]

The OE proportioning/combination valve will need to be gutted. You never want to run two adjustable proportioning valves in series with each other as the results are interesting to say the least. You can remove the non-adjustable proportioning valve from the block and just use it as a distribution block and still maintain your dummy light for the brake balance switch. Most people install their adjustable proportioning valves on the firewall or a bracket either next to or below the master cylinder to simplify installation and later on, adjustment.

Let's see a picture of the mock-up. Do you know which steering arms you have? There were a couple of different lengths whether the car was manual steering versus power steering, but neither should be a problem. It should work on all A/F/X-bodies...and the Hybrid kit should locate the caliper radially outward further than the standard kit by a long shot...so what's hitting what and where is it hitting?

Tobin
KORE3

Alright...thanks for the responses guys. First off, it will be another week or 2 before I get to finish the install and can take pictures. The car is in my parents garage away from me.

1st Question: Will the proportioning valve work under the car towards the front, say under the drivers seat area floorpan so it could be hidden and out of sight? Disadvantages to doing this?

2nd Question/Comment: When mocked up, the caliper was hitting the steering arm where it attached to the tie rod. The steering rods have a sweep in them and I'm thinking maybe I had them backwards. On one side they are clearanced it looks like to clear the spindle. When mounted like this, the sweep of the steering arm sweeps out away from the centerline of the vehicle. I'm thinking they should have been turned the other way and the sweep should sweep in towards the centerline. Is this correct?

[68renner]

Anybody???

[Apogee]

Your steering arm should sweep inward towards the centerline of the car. The little divot in the side of the steering arm between the mounting points is to clear the ball joint nut...and obviously the steering arm needs to point rearward on a rear steer car, so that should get your orientation correct.

Hopefully that squares away your interference issue at the same time.

Tobin

[68renner]

alright.....here is what i'm having problems with

As you can see the caliper is hitting the steering arm and wont even line up with the hole to mount it.

Any help??

[elcamino80]

How does the other bracket fit on this side, maybe its just on the wrong spindle...

[Chad-1stGen]

How does the other bracket fit on this side, maybe its just on the wrong spindle...

Seems plausible. Especially if he thought the instructions showed front steer and it really showed rear.

[Apogee]

Hey, thanks for the pictures. It looks like you've got A-body steering arms mounted backwards...needless to say, it won't work like that for several reasons incuding bump-steer and the interference you've already encountered. The F/X-body rear steer arms drop down from the mounting point a couple of inches, eliminating the interference issues. Where did you get the spindles and steering arms from?

Edit: Also, it looks like you have the 5/8-18 drum spindle with the hardware kit for the disc spindle, hence the thick washer and overlength 5/8" bolt. Give us a call if you'd like to swap hardware kits with us.

Tobin
KORE3

[68renner]

Hey, thanks for the pictures. It looks like you've got A-body steering arms mounted backwards...needless to say, it won't work like that for several reasons incuding bump-steer and the interference you've already encountered. The F/X-body rear steer arms drop down from the mounting point a couple of inches, eliminating the interference issues. Where did you get the spindles and steering arms from?

Edit: Also, it looks like you have the 5/8-18 drum spindle with the hardware kit for the disc spindle, hence the thick washer and overlength 5/8" bolt. Give us a call if you'd like to swap hardware kits with us.

Tobin
KORE3

Boy a picture is worth a thousand words!!! I think the steering arms were actually on the car when we got it a LONG time ago with the front drum brakes. Is there a difference between F-body disc and drum steering arms or are they the same for both? If they are different, which ones do I need? Also, is there a difference between them for power and manual steering? If so, what are the differences? Thanks so much for the help guys. I'll be giving you a call tomorrow Tobin!

[68renner]

anybody....

[MrQuick]

Besides the length they are the same (disc or drum) for f bodies. Make sure you buy a matching set. David Pozzi's web site has pictures and part numbers.