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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Apr 2007
      Location
      Minneapolis, MN
      Posts
      154
      Country Flag: United States
      I know you've heard this many times before, but after reading the entire thread I have to say you are a gifted craftsman. I love the stang. Did you ever get a chance to run it at dragstrip?



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Buford, GA
      Posts
      923
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68byrd View Post
      I know you've heard this many times before, but after reading the entire thread I have to say you are a gifted craftsman. I love the stang. Did you ever get a chance to run it at dragstrip?
      I'm sure he'll answer...but, yes, he ran it at the 1/8th mile strip at least a few times. That thing would scoot - and on street rubber.

      He was having a fun time with an old Muncie tranny - basically made shifting really fun. Lots of missed or just really slow shifts.


      ...sorry to chime in, Ron. I just was thinking back about how that thing blew by me a few times - sounded pretty good while doing it, too!!!
      Adam
      1985 S10 - LT1 + T56
      1964 Chevy II 4-Door - LS1 + T56

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Maryland
      Posts
      1,863
      Country Flag: United States
      No problem Adam, I was just thinking back to that weekend and what fun it was, Muncie had no second gear above 4000 RPM, even if you granny shifted it wouldn't go in, most of the time I was shifting 1st to 3rd.

      I think Andrew came in first with his GTO, I came in second , I don't remember what it ran in the 1/8th, I think Andrew calculated it to 12.3 or 4 in the 1/4. That $300 engine ran pretty good, while it lasted.

      Hoping this new set up does pretty well, I think its maiden voyage will be to Cecil County Dragway, so I'll let you know as soon as I do. Ron
      Ron Schwarz

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Maryland
      Posts
      1,863
      Country Flag: United States
      Got home from work early today,and desided to dig into this ls7. Needed to change the reluctor wheel to a 24 count, because I couldn't find a translator.

      Used the poor mans main cap puller to pull caps, but i did buy the Goodman Reluctor ring installer. Had to heat the reluctor to 450 degrees in my powder coat oven, but it went on like butter.

      Can't deside what color to paint it though. I'm either going to be true to the engines heritage, and paint it orange using the Chevrolet valve covers, or paint it Ford blue and run 351 Cleavland black wrinkle valve covers.

      Will be running the Nascar carbon fiber air cleaner, won't set as high as it does in the pics (have it spaced to clear the linkage). Will use differnt linkage on car.






      Ron Schwarz

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Location
      League City, TX
      Posts
      707
      Country Flag: United States
      I like the Ford clone idea for the motor.
      John Brown
      1971 Nova - Project Car
      1990 Silverado - Ridetech StreetGRIP
      Instagram @wilwaxu
      Facebook @wilwaxu

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      TN
      Posts
      959
      or... you could really make people mad and paint it ford blue with black wrinkle chevy valve covers. Actually many people wouldn't even notice the chevy part if you did the whole valve cover black.
      Benjamin

      Twin Dusters
      '72 Plymouth Duster "Aero Duster" project
      '72 Plymouth Duster "Daily Duster" project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...RO-DUSTER-quot

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Ron do those reluctor rings have magnets on them? Just wondering what the currie point is if they do, so that you don't demagnetize them with that heat from the oven.


      eh, nevermind, if it's steel you were way under that....over 1400°F for the currie point for iron

      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curie_temperature
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      NW burbs IL
      Posts
      1,732
      Quote Originally Posted by John Wright View Post
      Ron do those reluctor rings have magnets on them? Just wondering what the currie point is if they do, so that you don't demagnetize them with that heat from the oven.


      eh, nevermind, if it's steel you were way under that....over 1400°F for the currie point for iron

      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curie_temperature
      Its a hall effect sensor, no magnet required.
      Matt


      Current project: " Chain Reaction "

      A.K.A. " BIG " by wife, biatch in garage.

      1969 RS Camaro L92 T56 Quadra-link, CW sub, Ford 9" a progressive build.

      Ex track car: 1995 Camaro LS1 T56

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Bow Tie 67 View Post
      Its a hall effect sensor, no magnet required.
      gotcha!....I should have known....didn't have my brain engaged this morning.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    10. #10
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Maryland
      Posts
      1,863
      Country Flag: United States
      It is a hall effect sensor, there is a magnet in the sensor, if you put it to a peice of metal it will stick. In fact I'm in the middle of designing a system to run the new Hemi or any other engine off the GM sensors and pcm. Hoping to have it done by summer.
      Ron
      Ron Schwarz

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Maryland
      Posts
      1,863
      Country Flag: United States
      Got the engine painted,should test fit it tonight for dry sump etc. Can't wait to get this thing fired up.


      Ron Schwarz

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      west springfield, ma
      Posts
      249
      Country Flag: United States
      engine looks great, love the car

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Looks good!...now fire that baby up!...LOL
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    14. #14
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      TN
      Posts
      959
      So are you going to change the valvecovers or keep it like that? Looks great either way!
      Benjamin

      Twin Dusters
      '72 Plymouth Duster "Aero Duster" project
      '72 Plymouth Duster "Daily Duster" project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...RO-DUSTER-quot

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Maryland
      Posts
      1,863
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm really not sure, I will probably put ford valve covers on it, but I want to get it set in the chassis to see how everything fits first. Don't really know why I'm considering the Ford parts on it, its alot more work, and its not like I'm fooling anybody. Just being an Ahole I guess. Ron
      Ron Schwarz

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Thehoodstock,GA
      Posts
      793
      Country Flag: United States
      Engine looks good, Ron.

      My eyes keep looking at that Ford blue, then the Chevy valve covers, then the Ford blue, then the Chevy valve covers.........

      Maybe that's a good thing?
      MarkK

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Ron S View Post
      I'm really not sure, I will probably put ford valve covers on it, but I want to get it set in the chassis to see how everything fits first. Don't really know why I'm considering the Ford parts on it, its alot more work, and its not like I'm fooling anybody. Just being an Ahole I guess. Ron
      It will run too good for anybody to be fooled into thinking it's a Ferd power plant.....LOL


      Could mill off the raised lettering and use a ball mill to inscribe Ford Motorsports on them....then bead blast to give them a uniform as cast looking appearance.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    18. #18
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Charlotte, NC
      Posts
      795

      leave the Chevrolet machine finish and paint the

      covers semi-black.

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Maryland
      Posts
      1,863
      Country Flag: United States
      Set the motor in tonight, and can't find the room for the dry sump tank, thought of every possible location, and there just isn't the room.

      I think I'm going to build a custom tank. Mocked one up out of cardboard to fit behind the radiator.(the only place that it will fit).

      The radiator sets at a 45 degree angle, so the pusher fans kind of push the hot air at the ground. If I put a baffle between the two to divert the air off the tank. Can anyone think of anything else that may be an issue with this set up?

      The tank will require alot of baffles and bungs, but you I can put them where I want, and it kind of fits the car.





      Ron Schwarz

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Jul 2007
      Location
      Olathe, KS
      Posts
      1,158
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Ron S View Post
      I'm really not sure, I will probably put ford valve covers on it, but I want to get it set in the chassis to see how everything fits first. Don't really know why I'm considering the Ford parts on it, its alot more work, and its not like I'm fooling anybody. Just being an Ahole I guess. Ron
      What do you have to do to make the 351 valve covers fit an LS motor? A friend is also dropping one into a '69 mustang and would like to dress it as a ford.

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