Question concerning Locktite/Antisieze

[Happyfunballs]

I'll post this here and see what happens. I will be assembling my 67 Camaro very soon and I've purchased stainless bolts for most everything. I've heard that I'm supposed to install them with antisieze compound to keep the threads from galling. However, I want to make sure they don't back out, hence the confusion on adding Locktite or a suitable thread locking liquid. My question is this: What is the correct procedure for installing stainless bolts without galling the threads and making sure they don't back out??

[myclone]

My question is this: What is the correct procedure for installing stainless bolts without galling the threads

Do not over tighten them.

and making sure they don't back out??

Some sort of thread locking compound, nylon(sp?) lock nuts, or lock washers.

Just remember that SS fasteners as well as anything SS will be relatively soft so going over board with torque application is the quickest way to a ruined fastener. If youre hanging sheet metal using SS bolts then a 3/8" drive ratchet is all you need and stay away from air impacts and/or "cheater" pipes and you should be fine (unless youre a power lifter ).

[Matt@RFR]

Do not over tighten them.

A stainless ny-lock on a stainless bolt can sieze up even before you start clamping anything together.

Just use anti-sieze and the proper torque specs.

[myclone]

A stainless ny-lock on a stainless bolt can sieze up even before you start clamping anything together.

Just use anti-sieze and the proper torque specs.

Yeah it sure can. Its called cross threading :icon_razz

[WS6]

theres actually a specific anitseize for putting stainless bolts to stainless nuts, but ive never needed to use it. ive always just used regular graphite impregnated antiseize and havent had a problem. can you not use a lock washer under the bolt head?

[CarlC]

If you are considering using stainless fasteners in a structural and/or safety related application such as an A-arm, leaf spring, etc. I highly recommend not using them. There's only a few companies that make a stainless fastener that is suitable for structural applications, ARP and SPS are two of them. The rest, especially the hardware store/swap meet/magazine add suppliers provide very low strength stainless bolts that are not suitable for structural applications.

[ProdigyCustoms]

We highly recommend taping all original body holes like cowl to fender, hinge to cowl, door to hinge with the appropriate size tap to remove crude, de bur, etc. And basically any bolt anti seize.
Taping the door plates in the doors has a way of making ones life easy anyway, when installing and adjusting doors. It is sure nice to be able to spin the bolts snug by hand, and not have to wrench in the door jam the entire way. Now if you door is already on, and you are changing fasteners one at a time, you wont be taping the door plates unless you go from the inside of the door shell out.