Official undercoating debate?

[absintheisfun]

I have no experience to speak of, but I am about a week away from finishing the udnerside of my 67 Camaro. I've been reading many "this product says its the best"....who has some tried and true methods?

So far I've read about:

Rustoleum
POR15
Truck bed liner
Rattle can undercoating
Chassis Black
etc etc...

Who can help me decide what to do with the underside of my car?

[absintheisfun]

Oh yea...
it will be a very driven car once it is complete. But I want it to look "pretty" as I may try and show it. I'm in Dallas, TX so their is not a real fear of salty ocean air, but Dallas has a nortoriously high humidity level almost year-round...

[absintheisfun]

anyone?

[derekf]

POR-15 doesn't stick all that well to smooth (unrusty) metal.

The rattlecan truck-bed liner from Autozone didn't stick all that well either.

I've got a gallon of Chassis Black to try next; I've also got some "Implement Black" enamel with hardener from Tractor Supply.

From talking with the folks at the paint shop, Chassis Black doesn't hold up to sunlight all that well (not that that's such a concern for chassis stuff, but the underhood portions may see sun occasionally) so I'll likely be using the Implement Black for that part.

[danbob67]

Being your gonna be driving the car I would put a paintable spray can undercoating the paintable seems to actually dry and not stay like tar, and it could easily be touched up if needed.

[Taylor1969]

I used stuff called Sputz (sp?)... it works really well.. It is almost like a bedliner but softer. It is made by 3m and comes in a bottle. You buy a cheap spraygun and the bottle threads right into it.

[el-camino]

this is my undercoating choice.
its a leaded paint, nearly the paint from the big boats under the watermark.

[Damn True]

this is my undercoating choice.
its a leaded paint, nearly the paint from the big boats under the watermark.

Leaded paint?

Hmm, I don't reckon one could get away with buying that in CA, let alone spraying it.

[68fusion]

try wurth sks stoneguard...comes black and is w/based. We do trunk floors and car undersides with it. Very similar to rocker shutz 3m.

[astroracer]

I am in Michigan and never use anything that can "lock in" moisture. Especially salty water from our roads in winter.
Spray on undercoatings are notorius for creating pockets that retain moisture and never totally dry out. If you plan to drive in any rain or wet conditions, I guarantee, water will find a hiding spot.
I would suggest simply painting your floorpan with a good quality chassis paint. This leaves it open so it doesn't collect water and is easily repaired or touched up if necessary... keep it simple.
Mark

[Steve1968LS2]

I used a stuff from Lord Fusor.. it's used on many OEM applications. The bottow was painted in a POR-15 first.

It's lightweight and has a softer rubbery texture. It can be painted, but the basic black works good for me.

http://picsorban.com/upload/buff8.jpg

[Steve1968LS2]

try wurth sks stoneguard...comes black and is w/based. We do trunk floors and car undersides with it. Very similar to rocker shutz 3m.

That's what we did the bottom of the Fairlane in. It's a harder finish compared to the Fusor stuff.

[Cruiser]

I am in Michigan and never use anything that can "lock in" moisture. Especially salty water from our roads in winter.
Spray on undercoatings are notorius for creating pockets that retain moisture and never totally dry out. If you plan to drive in any rain or wet conditions, I guarantee, water will find a hiding spot.
I would suggest simply painting your floorpan with a good quality chassis paint. This leaves it open so it doesn't collect water and is easily repaired or touched up if necessary... keep it simple.
Mark

I will have to agree with this statement. I would also add that even in Dallas (I am in South Arkansas) the amount of rain year around would cause an issue also. My 67 has the orginal pans in it. No undercoating from the factory or dealer installed. They are nearly perfect today. I clean and spray uner the car to clean off dirt and mud. I will just be painting mine medium black again. It easy to take care of and it's worked for this long, I think it's a proven method for me at least.

Joe

[Benoit23]

On ESPN2, Stacey David is on a show called "GEARS". I saw an episode were he used this product called "Chassis Saver" have any of you heard of it & would this be a good choice for him?

Stacey claimed you can put it on a rusted surface & it will neutralize the rust & protect metal sealing like paint.

I’m curious for you input on this product bc I’m In the Dallas TX area as well.

[Benoit23]

http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp
I found this website but, still curious if any of you guys have used it & your opinion on it?

Deal or dud?

[70 Chevelle]

3M body schutz.

[absintheisfun]

Wow! thats a set of responses! Thanks!

Sadly, as I am removing portions of the floor to put in patches ...I am discovering that the previous owner did an absolutely HORRIBLE job on his floor patches.

I knew they were bad, but MAN OH MAN are they bad. Tack welded in a few spots and given a HEAVY coat of rusty tar...It looks like the undercoating is a bit more than a few weeks away as I am now planning on a whole new floor.

I laugh now because I remember thinking, "they don't look too bad...I could probably just patch it."

Once mounted on the rotisserie, its changed to, "hmm....would it be easier just to replace the shell???????

[Part Time]

I used a stuff from Lord Fusor.. it's used on many OEM applications. The bottow was painted in a POR-15 first.

It's lightweight and has a softer rubbery texture. It can be painted, but the basic black works good for me.

http://picsorban.com/upload/buff8.jpg

Tease!

[Josh]

I stole an idea form the guy who painted my car. One gallon Rustoleum gloss black industral paint (it is oil based), one gallon rubberized roofing cement, one quart of your favorite solvent. Mix together in a 5 gallon bucket and apply 2 coats with an undercoating gun. $25 in supplies and you have enough to do 2 cars. The mix dries to a flat or very mild satin, does not stay "tarry" but not rock hard either with the rubber in it. It sticks to anything and lays out a little better that most bedliner type products. If you ever need to touch up just use the extra you sealed up in a can and dab with a brush. It lasts a long time in a tight container. I have done all my cars including my drivers. It has held up very well to the nasty winters in the upper penninsula of Michigan with tons of salt.

[Cruiser]

Wow! thats a set of responses! Thanks!

Sadly, as I am removing portions of the floor to put in patches ...I am discovering that the previous owner did an absolutely HORRIBLE job on his floor patches.

I knew they were bad, but MAN OH MAN are they bad. Tack welded in a few spots and given a HEAVY coat of rusty tar...It looks like the undercoating is a bit more than a few weeks away as I am now planning on a whole new floor.

I laugh now because I remember thinking, "they don't look too bad...I could probably just patch it."

Once mounted on the rotisserie, its changed to, "hmm....would it be easier just to replace the shell???????

If your going with new floors or a complete new pan (cost might not be as bad you think VS patching and costs to patch) I would seal where it's put in, then sand/prep/paint the underside and top of the new pans. Then do something on the top side like a sound deading coating.

Like I said my stock pans are nearly perfect, I really think a little cleaning at times ans some paint goes a long way to preserve them.

Here is a shot that mainly shows my dash but you can see the FWD parts of the pans, they are awsome, the rears are just as nice.