Car Craft 331

[Project69]

Anyone see the 331 engine in Car Craft August 2007??? Was wondering what would i need to build it. It says it uses a 327 block with large journal crank, 6.250 Eagle I-beam rods, JE 6.0 rod 383 pistons (1.125" compression height), AFR heads, 244/244 duration cam.

But im wondering if i will need to machine anything on the block to fit those rods and pistons? The compression comes out to 10.5:1 two-valve relief pistons, because he pushed them 0.005" out of the hole using 0.036" gaskets...

What are they talking about? what hole?

Would this be a pump gas motor?

Thanks

[MarkM66]

Hole is the bore. 0.005 is the piston to deck measurement. So from your figures listed the quench would be .031", which is very tight.

Premium pump gas should work.

I don't see why any aditional block clearancing would be needed.

[Samckitt]

Sounds like a .030" over 327 to me. Any 350 block & 3.25" crank will work.

Crank CL to rod pin CL distance @ TDC:
6.25 rods + 3.25 stroke / 2 = 7.875"
6.00 rods + 3.75 stroke / 2 = 7.875"

Looks like any piston used for a 6" rod / 400 crank & 350 bore (4.0" or 4.03" for .030" overbore) will work with a 6.25" rod / 327 crank.

Like MarkM said, hole = bore.

You might check clearance between cylinder bore & rods. I doubt you will have a problem with the small stroke crank, but check anyway with the long rods.

This configuration would work good with pump gas, longer TDC dwell time allows for higher compression, without high octane fuel. I don't know how, read that somewhere.

[Project69]

Sweet thanks, i messeged a guy who works there and hes gonna get me all the specs on this motor set up for me.

[GetMore]

They built a similar engine a few years ago, called "The 350 Chevy should have built." It was that same basic setup, IIRC. Their "350" used a 400 block and a 327 crank 4.125" bore, 3.25" stroke, and long rods.

A 327 block is the same as a 350 block, the stroke is the difference, both are 4" bores.

With aluminum heads, really tight quench, and only 10.5:1 compression you might be able to run that engine on 87 octane.

[Project69]

I dont mind running 93 octane.

[Samckitt]

For about the same money you could build a 6" rod 350 (or 355, .030" over), maybe even a little cheaper. Not sure of the price of the 3.25" crank, or the 6.25" rods. I would rather do that than the 331.

Eagle H beam 6.0o" rods $429.95 (I know you said I beam rods, Summit didn't have I beam listed in 6.25" lengths)
Eagle H beam 6.25" rods: $495.95

Looks like cranks are the same price.

[Project69]

Well i already have a 331 sitting in my garage in pieces, So all i would need it the rings, rods, and pistons.

Eagle I beam 6.25 rods are listed 290 the cheapest i found through google, weight balanced x-rayed etc.

Im still waiting on a response on if there is any machining to the block just incase, so i dont go spending money buying all the parts.

[Samckitt]

Gotcha, makes since to me.

[Project69]

It says a 383 6.0 Rod piston was used with 1.125 compression height...

now does that mean all 383 6.0 rod pistons have that same compression height? Because im not looking at buying the same JE pistons he used. Does speed-pro make a piston like the one used?

[Project69]

I found some cheaper 1.130 compression height flat top pistons, would the extra .005" hurt anything??

[Project69]

So what would the deck height have to be in order to get the pistons 0.005" out of the hole using 0.036" gasket?

[wendell]

Two points,
1. If the only reason you're building this because you have a small block core and a 3.25" crank, sell the crank and just buy a 383 kit and be done with it. There's no magic in CC's 331. In fact, once you realize you should have built a bigger motor, you're going to have to ditch the rods anyways.

2. You can't screw a motor together from articles and internet forums. For example; what's your deck height? What will it clean up to?

Take your time. Work backwards from your performance goals and budget. Let those two factors determine the motor you build. Work with a local engine builder.

[Texas Hotrod]

By saying 327, you aren't talking about an LS1 5.3 (which people refer to also as a 327).
A 327 is a low power/high RPM engine (in my book). It'll be gutless on the bottom end and you'll have to wind it up to make any power.

Cast steel stroker cranks are cheap, build a 383. It'll make a ton of torque and with a good set of heads, it'll make a lot of power. The bigger the engine, the bigger you can go on everything else. 850 Holley, Victor Jr intake, 1 7/8" headers, etc... It'll go like hell.

.005" out of the hole means at TDC, the pistons are .005" out the top of the block. More chance of the pistons hitting something during rod stretch. You have to install the crank and a piston/rod at each corner and take in-the-hole measurements, then have it decked accordingly. It should be flush w/the top of the block, not protruding.
There's no replacement for displacement. Would you rather tell onlookers it's a 331 (sounds like a Ford engine) or a 383?

[Nicks67GTO]

My machinist duffed up and left my pistons .007 out of the hole. I run a .039 or .040 gasket I cant remember so my quench is tight. The good news is I used to spin my little 350 to 8K all the time with my old 268/[email protected] solid cam I had in there and I never had a kiss issue or anything. Im running a 4340 eagle crank and 4340 H beams. My final compression with 60cc chambers and -5 reliefs in my pistons was 11.1:1. This is just kind of an FYI

[pdq67]

You know, it's funny guys think the little 327 is just not big enough when GM got the little 365 hp carb'd and 375 hp FI/327's just about dead-nuts right back then.

You spend a bit of time hopping one up using the newer stuff available, set the CR as high as we can run on good pump gas, then gear and tire her along w/ a smaller, lighter-weight car and I bet Mr. Clean can't wipe the grin off your face!!

pdq67