Need New Cooling Fan Set Up

[jy211]

well my hands are dirty and full of oil while I type this...just blew an a/c line off the condesor cause my current fan set up wouldn't cool good enough.....

I am trying to get this Gen 2 Vintage Air system installed and up and running....

I am looking to know who sells the fan and shroud set up from the 5.4 ? mustang cobra's? I've used them in the past with great success...or anyone point me in the right direction to something similar????

I have a 396 big block in the car with a 700R4 Tranny. Aluminum 4 core with an internal tranny cooler currently. I hope a new fan set up will be the answer..

[MonzaRacer]

Ok well for the reason the hose blew off may not be fan related ,,,if you had a fan pulling air through it and the rad but it still blew a hose you may have a high side restriction,,,oh and no high side shut off switch, bad idea and poor planning on VA system design.
I would say that your also experiencing a small condenser issue asI have seen several VA systems that I have had to install much better/higher efficiency condenser.
On a R134a system you should see around 28 to 32 psi low side and in the 200-250s high side in a max load situation.
also remember to replace your drier with a new one now that it has been exposed to air as it will absorb the moister from it and be dead in a matter of an hour or less.
If the drier is in the highside line(this will be the discharge side of compressor AFTER the condenser) simply locate a new drier with a high side pressure switch(most will be rated at a cutoff pressure of around 350psi) as if your system goes much over that you will trash parts(condenser,compressor,etc).
Also improper system charge will trash things similarly.
For the record you can use non measuring equipment but you have ,in an R134A system ,to be very crititcal on the charge. when you have a properly working condenser/fan setup as soon as the sight glass goes clear rather than cloudy, stop adding and let the system run for about 15 to 20 minutes windows open, max AC idle and on a fast idle step of about 1500.
I like making the AC fans run slower at road speed unless the system actually needs them running fast as the ram air effect takes over for the most part.
As soon as the car sits at idle trying to cool you, absorbed heat,engine radiated heat and dehumidify the air. Now if you want the system to cool you off faster run the fan on a lower speed as it willallow moretime for interior heat to be absorbed into the evaporator.
Unless its 98 degrees and 90% humidity your high side should never be over 275-300 stationary and this is very rare (and basicly means the heat isnt getting out of the refrigerant).
On hot days if it works well your high side should never range much over 250 avg,
Outlet temps SHOULD run in the 38to 44 degree range but your looking for a 30 degree split at the outlet inrelationship to the outside temps.
now if you spray a little spot on the outlets and inlet of the condenser you can verify its proper operation by having around a 40 degree split from inlet to outlet.
Also this is where athermal imaging camers helps because if the condeser is clogged you will have hot spots rather than an even progression of heat rejection (but a temp probe can be used as long as the tip can get through the fins to the actual tubes),,,but your hand can be used but becareful as the condser will be very hot to touch so tread lightly.
The condenser should be atleast the same size as the radiator and be sealed to the rad also so as all air can be pulled through it then the rad and I really like using 2 fans and a shroud that will cover the whole unit and then you can stage them, 1 fan should run at engine temp to cool the rad(I usually make sure its on the inlet side of the rad it can run single speed or 2 speed, now when the AC is on both should run at slow speed (I like 2 speeding fans for power consumption/lose reasons.
See I like to use the cooling fan to run at low speeds unless the engine gets over a certain temp, this setup is bypassed when the AC turns on and both run at low speed and only speed up if the AC high side pressure goes over a set point OR the engine gets too hot.
While most of the new controlers use pulsewidth modulation to control fan speeds at temp requirements it simply adds complexity and price.
Dual fan/dual speeds and its so simple to build (But dual fans/single speed also operate as well but do load the electrical system a little more.
But a simple 120-140amp alternator, an optima battery and making sure your running the heaviest guage wiring possible.

Good Luck
Lee Abel
AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

[gmachinz]

Hey-I think I may have talked to you before about the Mark VIII fans. Anyway, if you decide you still need a 5.4 Mustang Cobra fan/shroud assembly new, I have a source now-and cheaper than anywhere else in the country I'm willing to bet. Drop me a line if interested. Btw, imo the instant on/instant off of engaging an electric fan is what kills the motors over time, just one of the reason I prefer pulse width modulated circuit designs for fan controllers. I use relays in conjunction with them for over-ride features and automated cooling with electric water pumps. -Jabin