Project 68 The Great One

[SaturnVUEguy]

jackfrost, that url doesn't work, did you mean www.ramairbox.com ?


Code Red, that firewall looks pretty damn nice now, look forward to seeing some satin black on there

[Code Red]

not a fan of the dryer tube look if I did ram air I'd use a factory setup with the hood

[PlumFloored]

Thank you for the new wheels, SEND those three spokes back to 1992!

[rohrt]

The build looks awsome. The pictures are blocked at work so I have to look at these at home. Are you or have you dyno the engine? I have never had any luck with the edelbrock carbs is why I ask.

[SPECWARSQUID]

I have never had any luck with the edelbrock carbs is why I ask.

The edlebrock carb he's using is a loaner from a previous project that never came about. It was used to replace the engine's tired Quadrajet and provided years of faithful, dead-nuts reliable service in the engine's previous form. I believe he has plans to replace it in time.




Regarding the air cleaner Chris:

Here's an idea. Get an Air Clearner like this from Billet Specialties and I'll take it to work and media blast it to match your valve covers. Even better you could get an extra GTO decal to use as a reverse stencil. When done peal it off and you have a cast-look aluminum lid with the polish GTO logo.


One of these.



Shay
____________
Semper Fortis

[Code Red]

painted the firewall last night

its a semi gloss I'm not real happy with it but it will do for now and looks better than it did when I pulled the engine

Eventaully the engine will come back out and the body off the frame and then at that point I'll coat the frame with POR 15 and paint the engine bay satin black

[Code Red]

getting ready to put the engine in tomorrow

sanded and painted the drive shaft

[Code Red]

drivetrain goes in tomorrow picked up a new Hayes Billet steel flywheel last weekend while at the summit truckfest

[bonecrrusher]

You might want to clean up that trans, and spray some aluminum engine paint on it. Get some high temp primer and paint it, should look great! For 10 bucks, you cant go wrong.

-Craig-

[Code Red]

got my jegs starter that weve had for years finally mounted and lined up right.

did a test fit of the engine first without the trans to check for clearance of the starter so I didn't have to put it on from under the car.

tried to put the engine and trans in the car and then remembered the headers lol well ran into a bit of a snag but will probably wait till next weekend to finish up getting everything lined up and headers put in.

My 4 yr old niece





Starter



Teaser with just the engine no trans and no headers in in the car.

[jackfrost]

that's gonna be nice when you get it all back together. probably run nice, too.

[Code Red]

that's gonna be nice when you get it all back together. probably run nice, too.

the fun part will be getting buying all the little stuff and reassembling the accessories for the engine

still need to get the pertronics setup for the distributor, spark plugs, plug wires, thermostat, etc.....


but budget just got hit again, I think I stripped up my passenger coil over on my colorado today on a pothole. around $600 shipped for the front set but a friend at stylin trucks said he might try and get me his discount

[gto406]

Looking great Code-Red. The 'Poncho' valve covers look really sweet!

Cheers,
Brian.

[Code Red]

Looking great Code-Red. The 'Poncho' valve covers look really sweet!

Cheers,
Brian.

thank ya

I talked to the guys at the engine shop today about my headers hitting my porportioning valave and they said yup every pontiac does that and it has to be moved up lol

[Roadbuster]

thank ya

I talked to the guys at the engine shop today about my headers hitting my porportioning valave and they said yup every pontiac does that and it has to be moved up lol

My prop valve was floating above the frame to clear my headers when I got the car. I fabbed up a bracket to mount it to the frame behind the inner fender, using two existing holes.

I think if I have to do it again I will put it under the toe-board.

Jon

[gto406]

Yup, had the same problem. If you 'leave it as is' movement of the motor will cause the header to rub against the valve and you will work a hole into the side of your headers. Not to mention the heat sink it creates for your valve being so close (the stock exhaust I believe tucks in a bit tighter to the trans).

I had to move my p-valve to another location (I swapped out a Bird front-disc/rear-drum p-valve and mounted it under my Master-Cyl).

Cheers,
Brian
'72 GTO.

[Code Red]

finally bolted the headers and motor woo hoo

now I just need to start assembling the clutch parts, all the dam accessories, plugs, wires, distributor, and a bunch of other things before I get the body panels back on and then I can take it up to the shop for its first startup

should I wait to fit up the exhaust and do the first startup on open headers? lol

yes exhaust will be getting replaced eventually with bigger tubbing






Damn brake proportioning valve was in the way of the driver side header so just moved it up and out of the way for now I'll figure out later how I mount to mount it

[jackfrost]

before I get the body panels back on and then I can take it up to the shop for its first startup

i wouldn't be able to wait...

looks awesome so far.

[Roadbuster]

Looking good! Those headers look like they tuck up nice and tight to the body! Any chance you can get a shot from the front to see how they are in relation to the crossmember?

Jon

[Code Red]

Looking good! Those headers look like they tuck up nice and tight to the body! Any chance you can get a shot from the front to see how they are in relation to the crossmember?

Jon

is this what you want?