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    Results 241 to 260 of 294
    1. #241
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      San Bernardino, CA
      Posts
      883
      I still want to hear that cam!



    2. #242
      Join Date
      Jul 2001
      Location
      Detroit, Michigan
      Posts
      6,854
      Country Flag: United States
      (In his best Yoda voice)....Oh you will.....you will.
      1968 Pro-Touring Camaro LS1

      Project: Next Year
      - Start date; June '01
      - Completion; Sometime next year or the year after.....

    3. #243
      Join Date
      Mar 2002
      Location
      Redwood City, CA
      Posts
      1,895,413,640
      Country Flag: United States
      Tony, I don't know if he could do it, but talk to Mike Norris. Maybe he could also make a recommendation on the mail order tuning. But I've heard some good things about Texas Speed and Performance. Maybe give them a call?
      Allen Ortega
      Meanstreets Performance Fabrication

      ---------------------------------------

      Vegetarians are the reason for global warming

    4. #244
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Location
      IL
      Posts
      586
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by trapin View Post
      ANNNNND....WE'RE BACK!!!

      2009 really put a hurt on my project finacially but I'm happy to report I am back in the money and ready to (once again) make an attempt to crawl the last 50 feet of this God forsaken project.

      I've decided to take Andrew's (and a few others) advice and work towards breathing life into this LS1.

      My first question....for those of you that have had your PCM's reprogrammed, who do you feel did the best job editing and "mail tuning" your unit? So far I am familiar with Waitformeperformace, Speedinc. I also have to have my harness edited as well. Recommendations please.

      Thanks.
      I can voch for them (speedinc) my shop used to be next door to them and Jim their tuner is very good. He got us a few extra HP out of a mostly stock ls1.
      Rick

    5. #245
      Join Date
      Nov 2000
      Location
      O-town
      Posts
      4,330
      Country Flag: United States
      Keep trudging foward Tony!!! someones got to do it,
      Steve68- 1968 Camaro SS LSX T56, 12bolt 3:90's, 18" Fikse Profil 13s, Deep Fathom Green paint, Spearcos, just bunch of old junk because another member said so, LOL



      70 Nova SS street/drag 454, T400, 3:55, ugly!

    6. #246
      Join Date
      Jul 2001
      Location
      Detroit, Michigan
      Posts
      6,854
      Country Flag: United States
      Trudge forward I must.

      Can't start an engine without gauges?

      DONE.





      By the way....if anyone is using that Covan carbon fiber gauge pod I'd like to hear how you installed it. Right now I am thinking 4 or 6 countersunk screws in black to hide them.
      1968 Pro-Touring Camaro LS1

      Project: Next Year
      - Start date; June '01
      - Completion; Sometime next year or the year after.....

    7. #247
      Join Date
      Apr 2002
      Posts
      777
      Country Flag: United States
      Tony,

      Why ruin such a nice piece? Find a way to use some industrial velco. Or glue some mounting posts on the back and hold in place with a nut.

      --JMarsa

    8. #248
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Church Hill, Tn
      Posts
      45

      68 camaro

      You can use the original screw holes in the lower corners. I used a 1/4 piece of steel with two holes tapped at the top.
      Attached Images Attached Images  

    9. #249
      Join Date
      Jul 2001
      Location
      Detroit, Michigan
      Posts
      6,854
      Country Flag: United States
      Russ, can you be a bit more specific on the "1.4 inch piece of steel with two holes tapped at top"? Got any further pics to show that area? Thanks.

      Jason I think if I use countersunk black screws in strategic areas it should be fine.

      Another update...my radiator and electric fans are done. I mounted it the best way I knew how with some modified brackets from Lowes and a few radiator mounting zip ties at the bottem. Should hold. However...I do have a dilemma with my intake tube, see below.

      Radiator is a Champion from ebay (I know, stop you're laughing I'm poor) and the fans are from a Lincoln Mark VIII.



      As you can see the intake tube (compliments of Ryan Barichello, thank you again my friend) is impactiing the shroud on the fan. The line scribed on there is a ball park estimate of what will need to be trimmed to make it work. And yes, the tube should just barely clear the fan blades. My question to you is...should I trim this away and fit the tube in or is it going to look like a hack job and I should try something else besides the intake tube? Perhaps forego the Lincoln fans and go with thinner ones?

      Thanks guys.



      Last edited by trapin; 04-08-2010 at 04:18 PM.
      1968 Pro-Touring Camaro LS1

      Project: Next Year
      - Start date; June '01
      - Completion; Sometime next year or the year after.....

    10. #250
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Burnaby, BC, Canada
      Posts
      1,388
      C'mon Tony, you gotta keep that intake tube buddy!

      Can you trim the tube or coupler near the throttle body?
      1969 CAMARO RS

      2002 LS1-T56 Dyno results: 452 rwhp, 425 rwtq
      Project pics of my '69
      Lateral-G Feature Page
      Camaro Performers Magazine Feature

    11. #251
      Join Date
      Nov 2001
      Location
      Sacramento Ca
      Posts
      6,827
      Country Flag: United States
      wont removing a 1/4 inch of pipe off the intake side of that tube make it clear the shroud? It would pull it back some. no?
      Tony Langlois
      1966 Corvair Monza

    12. #252
      Join Date
      Jul 2001
      Location
      Detroit, Michigan
      Posts
      6,854
      Country Flag: United States
      I gotta dig into it more. There might be some room there. I just don't want it to look all hacked. And don't worry Ryan, that intake tube ain't going nowhere. It substantially improves the car's coolness factor. As a jalopy it needs all the cool it can get.
      1968 Pro-Touring Camaro LS1

      Project: Next Year
      - Start date; June '01
      - Completion; Sometime next year or the year after.....

    13. #253
      Join Date
      Jul 2003
      Location
      Anaheim Hills, CA
      Posts
      11,967
      Country Flag: United States
      Looking very good Tony.. especially like the gauges..
      "A ship in port is safe, but that's not what ships are built for."

      1968 Track Rat Camaro:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGHJ5c1yLIo&t=2s

      1971 Chevelle Wagon with a few mods:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBVPR3sRgyU

    14. #254
      Join Date
      Nov 2000
      Location
      O-town
      Posts
      4,330
      Country Flag: United States
      I was wondering how you were doing, looks good,

      I put the studs and mains in the bottom end the other night!!
      Steve68- 1968 Camaro SS LSX T56, 12bolt 3:90's, 18" Fikse Profil 13s, Deep Fathom Green paint, Spearcos, just bunch of old junk because another member said so, LOL



      70 Nova SS street/drag 454, T400, 3:55, ugly!

    15. #255
      Join Date
      Apr 2002
      Posts
      777
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by TonyL View Post
      wont removing a 1/4 inch of pipe off the intake side of that tube make it clear the shroud? It would pull it back some. no?
      Yeah Tony, I mean the other Tony...I'd do the same shave down the intake side of the pipe.

      --JMarsa

    16. #256
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by trapin View Post
      Russ, can you be a bit more specific on the "1.4 inch piece of steel with two holes tapped at top"? Got any further pics to show that area? Thanks.

      Jason I think if I use countersunk black screws in strategic areas it should be fine.

      Another update...my radiator and electric fans are done. I mounted it the best way I knew how with some modified brackets from Lowes and a few radiator mounting zip ties at the bottem. Should hold. However...I do have a dilemma with my intake tube, see below.

      Radiator is a Champion from ebay (I know, stop you're laughing I'm poor) and the fans are from a Lincoln Mark VIII.



      As you can see the intake tube (compliments of Ryan Barichello, thank you again my friend) is impactiing the shroud on the fan. The line scribed on there is a ball park estimate of what will need to be trimmed to make it work. And yes, the tube should just barely clear the fan blades. My question to you is...should I trim this away and fit the tube in or is it going to look like a hack job and I should try something else besides the intake tube? Perhaps forego the Lincoln fans and go with thinner ones?

      Thanks guys.



      Hi Tony,

      You can
      1)use a heat gun, heat up that section of shroud and roll it down just enought to clear
      2) redo the radiator mounts to move it closer to the radiator support.
      3) shorten the connection at the tube to throttle body. ie: push the tube farther in closer to throttle body. You can trim tube is necassary. Shorten boot at throttle body by 1/4" and slide on farther.


      Vince
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    17. #257
      Join Date
      Jul 2001
      Location
      Detroit, Michigan
      Posts
      6,854
      Country Flag: United States
      Never thought of the heat gun, I have one too.

      All good suggestions. I will see if there is some real estate in that tube to trim it up some. Might be cutting it close (no pun intended). I'll be at it tonight and post pics.

      By the way, my harness is at Wait4meperformance getting edited right now and Mike Norris is currently doing the tune on my PCM.

      Moving right along.......
      1968 Pro-Touring Camaro LS1

      Project: Next Year
      - Start date; June '01
      - Completion; Sometime next year or the year after.....

    18. #258
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Newbury Park, CA
      Posts
      5,837
      Country Flag: United States
      It looks like you have some room to cut both ends of the sleeve and the end of the tube.

      Cut the big end of the sleeve to slide it on the TB farther. Cut the small end to allow the tube to slide closer to the tube bend.

      I cut the end of my tube at a slight angle with the short side on the inside radius. This allows the tube to be roatated aft and give more room at the point of the shroud that is causing interference.
      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

    19. #259
      Join Date
      Nov 2000
      Location
      O-town
      Posts
      4,330
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm bumping you back to page one for the shame you'll throw up some updates, nobodys project is more stagnent than mine,

      I'm also bumpn' Trues car too,

      Then when I make a post of my car, you guys can be a jerk to me, lol
      Steve68- 1968 Camaro SS LSX T56, 12bolt 3:90's, 18" Fikse Profil 13s, Deep Fathom Green paint, Spearcos, just bunch of old junk because another member said so, LOL



      70 Nova SS street/drag 454, T400, 3:55, ugly!

    20. #260
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      16,117
      Country Flag: United States
      Is this thing up and running yet? Don't make me come up there this summer and finish it for you.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @dr__efi
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

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