Power steering too easy!

[speED]

Dave,

Yes car was re-aligned after swap. 3 degrees positive caster, 1/4 negative camber, 1/16" toe. Besides the engine a new pump was installed. Definetly feel it is a pressure problem, not alignment. No exageration when I say you can turn the wheel with your pinky (this is while in park), when driving a cross breeze through the window probably could steer the car if I was not holding on to the wheel. My set-up would actually be perfect for those guys with trucks and oversized tires.

ED

[speED]

69 Bbird,

I looked at the past post, what did you decide to do in the end???

ED

[David Pozzi]

The site sponsor ATS has the best box, it uses rack and pinion valving, next would be either a third gen box or one from AGR through Summit Racing.

The first two boxes require hose adapters, they have metric hose threads with O ring seals.

The AGR can use the stock hoses.

Another consideration is the first two have a smaller steering input shaft and require a different rag joint.
The AGR uses your stock rag joint.

I'm not pushing the AGR, there are other mfr's that make a similar retrifit fast box with SAE ports and the older larger stock input shaft splines.

Your new pump may have higher output pressure setting. You can swap your old pressure control valve from your old pump into the new one.
David

[speED]

Dave,

I like the fact that the AGR is a direct bolt-in. Do you know if the AGR boxes will interfere with the headers?

ED

[speED]

Dave,

I do not have the old pump, where can I get a pressure control valve and is there any way I can tell what I currently have?

ED

[David Pozzi]

Where did your current pump come from?
Most pumps from pickup trucks or mid 70's pumps have a higher pressure setting than the original pump.
Original pumps used around a 900 lb setting. Pickups used 1400 psi.

On the spool valve in the pump there is a nut, the nut holds a shim washer, the more washers, the lower the pressure setting. You would need to add a washer there. It is pretty hard to remove the nut without damage to the spool body. I clamp two vise grip pliers onto the body in-between the rubbing surfaces, stick a drill bit into the side hole so it helps prevent rotation, then clamp the two vise grips in a bench vise, THEN turn the nut. Like I said, the nut is TIGHT! The spool body is hardened, so it's hard to grab hold of it.

You really want a newer box if it's in your budget. You'll love it! The newer boxes higher pressure and flow.

The AGR boxes are the same dimension as a stock older box. We put one on my wife's 73 Camaro for autocross and it was a great improvment. We didn't have to change rag joint or hoses, - just transferred the old pitman arm to the new box.
David

[speED]

Dave,

Current pump is from a 66 Corvette. I believe it has a high pressure setting. The steering on a 66 Vette also has the shock damper which I do not have on the Camaro. If I go with a new AGR box do you think I will still need to shim the valve?

Thanks for all your advice.

[David Pozzi]

I think the 66 vette uses a different system, there is a slave cylinder connected to the tie rod end that gives the assist. The box has no hydraulics at all. This is similar to what Ford used for years.
I have a listing of pressures for 1967, and the vette is similar in pressure setting to a Camaro 900 to 1000 psi.
There may be something funny with your valve, or the screen inside the "nut" of your pressure valve may be clogged with debris.

But as I said, the best you can hope for is a "normal" feeling for a first gen box which isn't anywhere near as nice as a good box like the AGR, the ratio is faster too. I'd get a stiff feel fast ratio box, then if it isn't feeling right, work on pump pressures.
David