outdoor bodywork?

[dannyho]

OK, I'm going to be starting on my bodywork in the next few weeks, but unfortunately I dont have a garage available for the Roadrunner. So basically I need a way to seal whatever I do from the elements as it gets completed. I was thinking I could do an area then prime it and let it sit. but does primer absorb water?
I have a tarp and a car cover, but they aren't perfect. is there a certain type of primer I should use, and when I do go to finally paint it should I do anything special to re-prep these areas?
maybe spray on a top coat of rustoleum or something then sand it off completely later?

this is not going to be a show car paint job, but I still don't want it looking like a 14 year old's rattle can job oh his huffy.



on a side note, I was planning on using 20 Ga sheet metal for around the wheel wells, but seeing how thick 18 Ga is, should I step it down to 22?

Thanks ahead of time
Dan

[NOT A TA]

I've done the bodywork and paint on several of my cars outdoors in CT. During the spring here it rains pretty often and the water will be absorbed by rattle can primers or "regular" primer allowing rust to start on areas that were bare metal covered by primer. Late summer and fall are the best times to do outdoor bodywork here.
If you're gong to start soon go buy a big blue tarp large enough to cover the car below the body and a bunch of bunji cords. After your primer has dried each time you work on it put the car cover on and then put the blue tarp over it each time it's going to rain (or when night time condensation might occur) with plenty of bunji cords. Fold the corners to allow the rain to run out and not form puddles in pockets. Be sure to use at least one straight under the car in the middle to keep wind from lifting the tarp. Sometimes I tie a couple bunjis together to reach across more easily. When the weather is going to be dry and sunny leave the covers off so you won't get black mold on the primer.
I'm sure there's experienced professional painters on this site that can offer tips on readying the car after that if you're going to bring it to a shop for final paint.
I paint all of my own cars, outdoor in my dirt driveway (whole other story) and have had great success.
I've used several types of primers over the years and have found that each has advantages / disadvantages. Your local paint supplier can help you with a program that will work well for what you're goals are and how much you're going to do yourself.
If you're anywhere near Ansonia CT see Scott at Service auto parts. He's an active car guy who does his own bodywork as well as the paint guy there.

oh ya, yes my car that was on the cover of PHR was painted out in the dirt driveway !!! Over 15 years before it got the feature !

[Ghostbuster]

Most rattle cans have talc.. which absorbs moisture from the air, very bad next to bare metal..
Use an epoxy based primer sealer like DP90 or POR15 directly on bare metal.
Body filler goes over-top..
You can use rustoleum in between sessions, but I would try to get most off and seal with DP90 or similar.
When doing bodywork outside, wind is your enemy.
Pollen, leaves and bugs will be a constant battle.
A temporary carport near a fence can be an asset.
I built a simple frame using conduit, then covered with blue tarp side and a canvas top..

[dropit69]

yeah im with Ghostbuster..ive seen those frames you can buy at menards that you can put tarps on ..portable garage sorta..that would help a ton..

[marty69212]

go to harbor frieght nd buy one of there car tents with sides, i used to be able to buy them for around 200 dollars... thats how i did my last car !!

[dannyho]

so I had another idea. anyone know where to get small orders of marine shrink wrap (for storing boats for the winter), I can only find gigantic rolls for like 150 bucks, which is 12 feet by 200 feet. I'm gunna head down to the marina nearby later this week, and check there.

also anyone got a response for the sheet metal question?

[NOT A TA]

I don't know if shrink wrapping freshly painted surfaces is a good idea. I'd check with your paint supplier or a professional bodyman before doing that. Sealing off the fresh paint from air might have weird effects.

[dannyho]

oh no, not freshly painted surfaces. This would be more like after a preliminary primer went on and had cured.I should be able to time my work so I'll have a good amount of time for curing. So I'd do the body work, lay up one or 2 coats of an epoxy primer (like dp90), then shrink wrap it til I can get it to a paint shop, where it will be prepped once more then painted. Seems like it could work for me?

[chavez o]

I have done metal fabrication in 18, 20 and 22 gauge. I would rather use 18 gauge, because you get real good penetration with a mig welder. Downside is that it is a little harder to shape on compound curves like wheel wells. Go with the thickest you can shape 18 or 20.

[NOT A TA]

The shrink wrap scenario will probably work fine for you, just seems like more work each time you work on the car. A cover and blue tarp can be installed in less that 5 minutes even if its windy.

I'd still check with the paint supplier guys to see if there's any bad effects possible from wrapping it and how long after painting the primer you'll have to wait before wrapping it. If the wrapping works post it up!

John

[muthstryker]

what about getting a portable garage system? they have the ones with walls on them. i know alot of people use them and they work good. i think theres even a guy in here that was doing sand blasting and other stuff in some of those.

http://www.shelter-solution.com/

[vanzuuk1]

Doesnt a tarp hold moisture like a terrarium?

[NOT A TA]

Can't cover a wet car or you're trapping the water under it. There might be a condensation problem under the plastic tarp without anything under it. I use a cloth cover under the tarp. Perhaps the cloth wicks away any condensation that might form and evaporates it at the bottom where it gets fresh air. I have more cars than garage space and have kept cars outside all winter by replacing the tarp once in feb without any noticable problems. The blue tarps won't last a whole winter in CT. I have seen condensation problems in the portable garages here in New England because water gets under them and then forms condensation on the ridge pipe and the matarial which then falls on the car. They can get very humid inside if not allowed to breathe regularly.

John