Need help installing TKO

[DarkoNova]

Hey guys, so far it's been a trouble free install. Hardest part was changing the pedals from auto to manual and breaking the flexplate bolts loose.

Now the instructions say to put in the pilot bearing, but the pictures aren't that great, so I went to Summit to look at their pilot bearings.

This is basically what I have:





Anyway, there's also a 3/8"-ish thick washer that was in the bag with the pilot bearing. I don't know what that's for, but my main problem is what to do with the pilot bearing? The pictures in the instructions look like it goes in the recessed hole in the end of the crank, but it won't fit. It's just barely too big. I'm assuming it's supposed to be that way, and it needs to be pressed in? So do I just bang it in or what? I want to be sure I'm doing this right.

Thanks guys,
Matt

[GMJim]

Matt
This is a picture of a bushing. If you have a bearing you would put it in with a socket that's just a little bigger than the bearing and hammer it in. There is a small rubber seal in the bearing that is supposed to be towards you to the rear. If you use a bushing just make sure that the rounded part is facing the rear towards the tranny. Call me if you need any help.

[DarkoNova]

Thanks Jim. I guess the big washer thing is used to soften the blow? Or rather, to keep it from nicking/marring the rounded surface. Only thing is, it was a pita to try and use that, so I just used a socket that was roughly the same o.d. as the bushing and now it's got some dings on the rounded part. I took a pic and I'll upload it in a bit, hopefully it's still usable.

Also, how the hell do you hook up mechanical linkage? I've got a Haynes manual for Novas and another one for GM cars from like 60-89, and the exploded view diagrams are crappy generic ones that don't really help. Plus I think I'm missing parts.

Here's the pic of the bushing:


There's no damage to the internal area or the curved portion, its mainly to the flat outer edge, so I'd think it's still fine, but who knows.

Oh, and I actually called CC5S a while ago but it said you guys were closed.

More problems. I tried to put the pivot ball in the bell housing and it wouldn't fit. The threads on the stud are 1/2" o.d., and the hole on the bellhousing is 3/4"-13/16", so it just slides right in. And on top of that, the actual ball part is squared off at the top. Shouldn't it be completely round? Are all the kits the same? I got the linkage kit from Classic Industries, it's supposed to be for a 69 Nova. Is it the same kit that Classic Chevy sells?

Matt

[DarkoNova]

Well I called CC5S and talked to Scott. He explained the situation. Turns out there's a ball stud that comes with all the hardware for the bellhousing, and the one that was part of the linkage I bought earlier was actually the one that went into the block for the linkage.

Now I'm just trying to figure out how to install the linkage so I can put the tranny in. I was going to try to get the tranny in first, but I've read that sometimes it helps to have someone press the clutch in while sliding the trans in, so I'm trying to get that hooked up first.

Does anyone know what size bolts I need to bolt the "clutch bellcrank mount" to the frame? I thought the "complete" linkage kits would have all the nuts and bolts you need, but they don't.

Matt

[NovaPwr]

Well I called CC5S and talked to Scott. He explained the situation. Turns out there's a ball stud that comes with all the hardware for the bellhousing, and the one that was part of the linkage I bought earlier was actually the one that went into the block for the linkage.

Now I'm just trying to figure out how to install the linkage so I can put the tranny in. I was going to try to get the tranny in first, but I've read that sometimes it helps to have someone press the clutch in while sliding the trans in, so I'm trying to get that hooked up first.

Does anyone know what size bolts I need to bolt the "clutch bellcrank mount" to the frame? I thought the "complete" linkage kits would have all the nuts and bolts you need, but they don't.

Matt

The holes are already there in the frame Matt, just run a tap through them. I believe I used a 5/16" - 18 NC tap then a hardened 5/16" x 1" bolt with a lockwasher and some locktite red on it. If your inner fender is installed you may not be able to access one of the holes very well. hth.

Dave

[DarkoNova]

The holes are already there in the frame Matt, just run a tap through them. I believe I used a 5/16" - 18 NC tap then a hardened 5/16" x 1" bolt with a lockwasher and some locktite red on it. If your inner fender is installed you may not be able to access one of the holes very well. hth.

Dave

Thanks a lot. That was the thread size and everything. Got the trans in and the linkage installed. Just gotta tighten/torque all the bolts tomorrow and get the driveshaft dimensions sent in and I'll be good to go.

Can't wait!

Matt

[DarkoNova]

Got another question, guys. Ever since I got the car and put 16" wheels on it (about 4-5 years now) the speedometer has been off, and I've been too lazy/cheap to get the right gear, so I just judged my speed by the engine rpm's. At around 2000 I'd be doing 45 and at 2500 I'd be doing 55-60.

The thing is, a few months ago, the needle in my speedometer broke, and since I already know what gears I have, I figured I'd just do the math and go by rpm's again because I'm having trouble finding gauges that fit what I want and the style of the interior that I'm aiming for, you know? So basically, do I absolutely have to use the speedometer cable? Can I just plug the hole and drive without it? It's set up for a mechanical speedometer if that matters.

Matt

[NovaPwr]

Matt, according to the directions that came with my TKO it says "it is important to plug and seal the mechanical speedometer adaptor hole." You can find this plug at your local Ford dealer (part # F2UZ7H183A). Good luck with it.

[DarkoNova]

Thanks for the info. I went ahead and installed it, but it looks like the end that connects to the gauge won't work with the stock gauge, so it's just hanging under the dash. At least it will keep the trans from leaking.

Matt

[Bandit]

It is perfectly acceptable to plug off the mech. speedo hole. Make sure you have an o-ring installed on the plug though before you install it.
Doesn't your TKO have an electronic speedo output also? I thought they all did. If so, you just need a new electronic gauge and the pigtail adapter to wire the gauge into. On my car, I simply switched over to an Autometer electronic speedo and used the electronic output on the tranny. Really glad I did. It gets rid of the stupid little drive gears and cable, and makes it easy to calibrate your speedo for accurate readings regardless of rear gear swaps or different tire diameters.

[parsonsj]

I'm also using the electronic speedo output on my TKO. I calibrated my Auto Meter speedo, and it works great.

jp

[DarkoNova]

Thanks guys, but I've got another problem. It seems that the CC5S kit drastically changes driveline angle, or they sent the wrong parts, because my large body HEI that previously had tons of room with the TH350 now slams into the firewall with the TKO. I can't even get the cap on fully in the back. I tried putting about 3/8" of washers under the trans mount to kind of shim it up and now I can get the cap on, but once I get the rearmost wires on, I can move it maybe a centimeter.

I can shim it up more, but I don't know if it will totally mess up the driveline angle (though it seems to already be messed up).

Anybody ever have this problem? I called CC5S, but apparently everyone is on the phone, so I had to leave a message.

EDIT: I had a pretty long talk with Jim, and it looks like it's just an unfortunate incident that happens sometimes due to variations in production tolerances and whether or not my frame is aligned right with the body, etc. I'm just going to order a new MSD distributor and be done with it. I'm sick of being under the car, so I'm not going to mess with checking the frame alignment.

Matt

[GMJim]

Matt
As we discussed on the phone and for the benefit of others. If you remove the frame from the car, replace body bushings or if the car has been hit, the Sub frame can move a significant amount and must be realigned. Ever hear guys say my buddy has an HEI in his car with lots of room but I can't get mine in without beating the firewall in? We run into issues with driveshaft length and distributor fit from time to time and frame position is always the reason for fit trouble. There is a little alignment hole in each subframe mount bracket near the firewall. This little hole is .610" in diameter and should line up with a coresponding hole in the body. These holes are for assembly line alignment of the car. If you put a piece of steel rod in these two holes and the rod is not pointing straight down, your frame is off and can cause all kinds of front wheel alignment problems as well as the problems described here. There is a diagram and measurements in the Assembly manual to explain this. First and second gen Camaros and Novas should be checked.

[DarkoNova]

Yeah, I was under the car removing the shims from the trans mount to get it back to the stock height and while I was under there I checked the holes to see if they were lined up properly. Surprisingly, they were actually forward by a 1/4" or so on both sides.

I don't see why I don't have the clearance, but no big deal. I always wanted an MSD distributor, so now's the perfect time to get one.

Matt