Choke stuck?

[Clsccmro]

My 69 camaro has the origianl 327 motor in it with an edelbrock intake and 4 barrel carb. I've recently replaced the alternator with a new 170 amp v-groove pulley alternator. As best I can tell, the alternator is wired up correctly. The carb has an electric choke and it is acting strange. When I start up the car it idles fast until it warms up a little and then I quickly rev the motor and the idle goes back down, but this isn't the strange part i've always done that. The strange part is, I'll be driving along and come to a stop where the engine is revving and it will be revving at the same rpm's it was when I first started the engine. At almost every stoplight I have to quickly tap the throttle for the rpm's to come back down. It seems to only happen when I get past a certain rpm range (about 2,000) while I'm driving. If I'm just driving through a neighborhood where I'm going slowly it doesn't seem to happen, only when I get passed about 2,000 rpms and then come to a stop. I have no idea why it would do this, something to do with the choke I suspect, but I'm not a master of the carburetor nor electrical systems.

Any help at all would be greatly appreciated, I'm stumped on this one. Thanks in advance everyone!

[HILROD]

It will do this if the choke has a bad ground or does not have full 12 volts whenever it is running. Don't connect it to the ign or coil.

[Clsccmro]

It is currently connected to the alternator, there is only one wire coming from the choke and it is a power wire, I believe the carb. must ground it itself. Where would be the best place to connect the power wire for the choke?

Thanks for the response hilrod.

[HILROD]

The fuse box ign. You can hook a wire to the battery for a test only, if you hook it up there you can run it and see if it works. If you leave the choke hooked up full time, it will burn out and maybe burn your car.

[Clsccmro]

Hilrod, thanks a million

[pitts64]

I would remove it all together. You really don't need a choke, I don't think you drive it in 0 degree weather.
I always remove the choke flap and linkage.

[MonzaRacer]

No no no not on the Edelbrock,do not remove the choke, make sure it has a good ground(like do you have any plastic/phenolic spacers under carb, make sure the engien is grounded and make sure you have good connection to a fused ign terminal from fuse box and make sure its not on in the Accessory position only run.
Also the choke cap may be intermittent and they are fairly cheap I had an AFB from a 67 340 Buick and bought and electric chhoke conversion from NAPA, and it used a thermostat that bolted under one of the intake bolts on the water cross over passage, this made it work better.
Later when it got crushed I wired it to fuse box but it came off in like 30 seconds, so by then Edelbrock had thier carbs out and used one of those as they have higher resistance ,hence slower.
You may also have it too tight after it has gotten older, have you tried to back it off a couple of noitches and see if it helps ,also if it work great in dead winter chokes always cause difficulties in spring time as they never come on or go off completely, and if its cool but not cold and its getting cranky driving may cool carb off enough to make it act wierd.
Lee