Aeroquip hose + Russell Fitting = problem?

[69lt4]

Is it ok to use Russell AN hose fittings with Aeroquip hose (AQP -rubber inside SS braid outside)? Seem to have a little easier time putting the Russell fittings on vs. the Aeroquip fittings. I did notice the Aeroquip hose end fitting has a narrow section internal that makes it difficult to get the cut braids past.

Thanks,
Kevin

[yohinan]

Why skimp on the connectors? If your getting the superior Aeroquip line why not just shell out the money and get the better made Aeroquip connectors also.

Can you do it? I am sure you can but I dont think anyone thinks that Russell (or even Earls or whomever else) is better than Aeroquip. Then again the price reflects that. Maybe some others that have actually done this can chime in as I have never used two different brands to make line.

HTH

[Z-man]

While you can probably do it, they might not warrant any problems you might have. I stuck w/Aeroquip all the way.

[rocketrod]

Due to availablity at the local speed shop I've done it with the low pressure hoses, but stick with the same brand on high pressure hoses.

[Blown353]

Russell and Aeroquip are both compression style hose ends AFAIK... I don't know why the Russells would be so much easier to install unless the hose dimensions themselves are different between brands of hose.

I agree with what has been stated-- stick with matched brands, especially for fuel & oil lines-- don't risk a high pressure leak with flammable liquid.

I'm an XRP guy myself and being nipple & cutter design (as opposed to compression) they can be a royal PITA to assemble. I only wish XRP would step up to the bat wth some other colors (i.e. matte silver and black) short of having them custom made.

[69lt4]

Any suggestions on putting the hose in the socket easier? I tape the hose tightly. Insert a wood dowl inside the hose. Clamp the hose in the Aeroquip vise locks. Cut the hose with a hack saw. I get a good clean cut with one or two loose strain of braid. I trim those off. Remove the tape. Place the socket end in the aeroquip vice jaws. Put the hose at the opening of the socket and use a small screw driver push the braid into the socket. Then try screwing the hose the rest of the way in. I, always, seem to have strains of braid that don't make it in the socket. Any other suggestions for installing?
Thanks for the comments.
Kevin

[yohinan]

I can recommend two items you can add to your "tool" box that will most likely help make things a bit easier.

1. Purchase some assembly lube that is made specifically for installing hose ends. I cant think of the name of this stuff off the top of my head but I think each of the hose manufacturers makes their own style of this stuff.

2. Purchase Koul Tools hose end assemblers. They have two sets. One for the smaller ends and one for the larger ends. They arent exactly cheap but they will help.

Add these two items to your asseblies and the problem of installing ends onto your hoses may become easy in the near future.

[Blown353]

The hacksaw is part of your problem as it tears and flares the braiding out a little bit. I used to have problems from time to time when I'd cut hose with either a bandsaw or hacksaw even if taped tightly.

One of the best things to use IMO is a big set of Greenlee or similar brand cable cutters-- they don't fray the braid, make a super clean cut, and actually reduce/taper the OD of the hose a little bit at the cut point which makes it very easy to insert into the socket since the hose is now reduced in diameter and tapered for easy installation. No tape needed either, just cut in a smooth quick stroke. These things are a HUGE timesaver!

Summit sells a cutter for $35 that will work all the way up to -10 hose. I have a set in my AN fitting box and they work well. For bigger stuff I have a 2' set or so of Greenlee cutters that were about $80.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Summit claims they cut up to -12 but a -10 hose from XRP will barely fit in them.

[rocketrod]

Wrap the hose tightly with stranded packing tape, then use air powered cutoff wheel and cut around the hose, not just straight through it.

[Blown353]

Wrap the hose tightly with stranded packing tape, then use air powered cutoff wheel and cut around the hose, not just straight through it.

That's how I used to do it before I bought the cable cutters.

A friend of mine cuts braided hose by using a large very sharp chisel and a big hammer down onto a wooden workbench. Put the hose on the bench, line up the chisel, and take a big whack at it. You want to cut it in one hit. It works extremely well too, doesn't distort or flare out the braiding and makes a nice clean cut.

[John Monnin]

..friend of mine cuts braided hose by using a large very sharp chisel and a big hammer down onto a wooden workbench. Put the hose on the bench, line up the chisel, and take a big whack at it. You want to cut it in one hit. It works extremely well too, doesn't distort or flare out the braiding and makes a nice clean cut.

That is what Carol Smith recommend in his book, I am going to try this on my next project.

I have the Summit cutter and it works but it is not perfect. It tends to leave a few strands that I have to cut off with a sidecutter.

[Blown353]

That is what Carol Smith recommend in his book, I am going to try this on my next project.

I have the Summit cutter and it works but it is not perfect. It tends to leave a few strands that I have to cut off with a sidecutter.

Yeah, the cable cutters will start doing that after a while. You need to take them apart, resharpen them, then retighten the hinge. Cutting stainless braiding is much harder on them than the job they were designed for (cutting heavy copper wire.) When the hinge gets loose especially they will start "sucking" a couple of the braids in between the blades rather than cutting them.

[69lt4]

Damn christmas is over. Oh well, I'm adding rapidly to my tools. thanks,
Kevin