4L60E shift kit

[Texas Hotrod]

I have used the Trans-Go kits for many years, on different models, and find them to be a great value. Low price, good quality and lots of good info.
Myclone has many years of experience and I'm sure that he can agree that it takes many builds and some trial and error to figure out what works good and what works great.
You can follow a kit's directions and use the supplied parts to end up w/something sufficient. W/experience, you can build something outstanding by tweeking various little items, using thinner snap rings (to add more clutches), deleting springs, adding shims, etc,... and using the same kit.



A 4L60E needs an e.c.m. to run it, whether it's factory or aftermarket. You can alter the shift points and firmness by changing the program in the electronics. It'll probably cost more, but less of a mess.

I used a Power Programmer on a Z28 (OBD II) with great results. Plugged it in, scrolled the menu, used yes/no/up/down keys. I was impressed. Use minimal changes for the street, upgrade to maximum for the strip. Change fuel mixture/timing/rev limit/speed limiter/shift rpm/fan off-on/etc... I was sold on it. Everyone w/a late model vehicle needs one in their glove box.

---TEX---

[LT1Nova]

I do have computer tuning software for my LT1 that covers the shifting but I would think that it would be beneficial to change parts in the trans also. Computer programming seems like a bandaid of sorts when used alone. Maybe I am thinking wrong.

Myclone - your info was exactly what I was looking for. I will probably purchase the book you recommended and dig in to it this winter.

I would like to eventually put a little stall in it but man they are spendy for the lockup ones.

I have done a b&m shift improver kit in the past. I do not fully understand auto transmissions so they intimidate me.

Basically I want something that shifts comfortable up to 1/2 throttle but stiffens up at over 1/2 throttle.

[myclone]

LT1Nova,

Being as you have a 4L60E (puter controlled 700R4, basically) you can make improvements using software with no ill affects up to a certain power level generally speaking. I dont know what kind of power you are making now but IMO it would be safe to say you would be fine up to 425-ish hp before you need to start swapping hard parts.

Without getting into a huge technical speach the PCM pulses selonoids very rapidly to change the shift charactoristics instead of springs/valves/check balls used in the pre PCM controlled 700s. For the most part the selonoids are computer controlled fluid "leaks" and the PCM will change the pulse rate (opening/closing) of the selonoids to either bleed off pressure (increase the "leak") or bleed off less fluid pressure (decrease the "leak"). All that translates into either nice smooth shifts at moderate throttle input or when the PCM sees increased demand from the TPS, inj pulse width, etc it knows youve went WOT (or close to it) and firms up the shifts.

A PCM controlled trans is a huge improvement IMO over the stone age of springs, check balls, and spool valves that have been done for years since you can now have a trans that doesnt break your neck at shifts during light throttle but turns into a beast when you stab the throttle.

I would still pick up an ASTG manual if you like technical car info and if you feel the urge pick up a scrap 700/60E "core" at the local salvage yard to tear into. If its a core you wont hurt it since its already dead and once you get inside auto transes arent enormously complicated. Ive only been messing with the 700R4 for about 3 years due to scattering them all over the track regularly in my Syclone and before that Id never been inside one other than to change the fluid/filter. If I can rebuild one anyone can .

PS... I know lock up TCs are a little spendier(sp?) than a non lock up units but IMO the benefits far out weigh the cost. Less wear and tear on the engine at freeway speeds, lower trans fluid temps (trans lives longer), a few extra MPG, and if you have a loud exhaust your hearing will thank you on an extended drive due to the lower engine RPM. IMO below the 425ish HP level about any lock up converter should do just fine but if you flog the car at the drag strip fairly regularly with any more hp than that you should prolly step up and pay the bucks for a quality unit from a company like TCS or Yank since the B&M units regularly explode on anything that makes decent torque and good traction. The Syclone/Typhoon community could probably fill a large truck with broken B&M units so others as well as myself speak from experience on that issue.