Axle bearing problems

[Stu Seitz]

On my 69 Camaro with a 10 bolt, I put new studs in the axles, and while they were out thought it would be a good idea to replace the bearings.

The problem I’m having is the new bearings that I bought are too big. While it is only a tiny bit, I can still move the axle up and down a little and when I spin the axles it not very smooth almost rough. And yes, they are the correct bearings I went to Autozone, Pepboys and Napa all the berings had the same slop.



Now the next problem, the original bearings have no slop in them. I’m replacing them as preventative measure, as I do not have the money to buy new axles/rear end right now. The axles and bearing do not show signs of extreme ware and have less then 90k on them.

So my question is this, is something wrong with the axles or is something worn/out of speck that I’m not thinking of? Would it be ok to just put the old bearings back in?

[HILROD]

Try putting some lube on the bearings. See if they feel better.

[Tucks69]

On my 69 Camaro with a 10 bolt, I put new studs in the axles, and while they were out thought it would be a good idea to replace the bearings.

The problem I’m having is the new bearings that I bought are too big. While it is only a tiny bit, I can still move the axle up and down a little and when I spin the axles it not very smooth almost rough. And yes, they are the correct bearings I went to Autozone, Pepboys and Napa all the berings had the same slop.

Now the next problem, the original bearings have no slop in them. I’m replacing them as preventative measure, as I do not have the money to buy new axles/rear end right now. The axles and bearing do not show signs of extreme ware and have less then 90k on them.

So my question is this, is something wrong with the axles or is something worn/out of speck that I’m not thinking of? Would it be ok to just put the old bearings back in?

Stuart

You may want to try an axle saver bearing. I have used these on cars that have wore the bearing surface on the axle. The bearing saver is a bearing and seal made together. The bearing is made to move the bearing to a new surface on the axle. Talk to an experienced parts person they should be able to help. The last one I bought was about $20.00. I used to work on police cars, and we used a bunch of them. I belive they held up better than the origional. If you have any questions feel free to pm me.

Mike Tucker

[David Pozzi]

If you axle is not worn, then the bearing must be wrong.
What is the part number and brand?

Big car axles are larger od, but a similar style, maybe they are giving you the big car bearing?
How loose is the axle a fiew thousandths or .010?

The axle saver bearings work but tend to have leak problems on several I've seen. The seal in them is very very small and doesn't work very well.

[Stu Seitz]

If you axle is not worn, then the bearing must be wrong.
What is the part number and brand?

The new bearings that are in the housing right now are Timkens. the part number I got from autozone was somthing like 5705; I think.

Big car axles are larger od, but a similar style, maybe they are giving you the big car bearing?
How loose is the axle a fiew thousandths or .010?

It's fiew thousandths if that, I just took a digital caliper to the axle and the section of the race where the bearings road measured 1.399, while the non-worn section measured 1.400. Could that really make that big of a differance?

[z65mm6]

Don't take this the wrong way I'm not trying to be a smart a** but if the bearings are not worn, i.e. no visible pits or scuffing why replace them? A bearing fails for one of only a few reasons, an imperfection below the surface that's worked it's way to the outside, a lack of lubrication or overloading. A used bearing in good working order is as good or better than the replacement. If it hasn't failed from material defect and you haven't overloaded it, I would clearn it up swab out the tubes and put it back in.

But since you already have it apart for servicing, now would be a good time to find a reliable source for a replacement.

You can go to Timkens site and look up the number per your application and countless others. I've found this to be a good reality check from time to time. http://www.timken.com/industries/aut...rtCatalog.aspx

According to Timkens site the bearing is a 5707 with a bore of 1.4016 an OD of 2.252 and width of .698.

I hope this helps

[Stu Seitz]

Don't take this the wrong way I'm not trying to be a smart a** but if the bearings are not worn, i.e. no visible pits or scuffing why replace them? A bearing fails for one of only a few reasons, an imperfection below the surface that's worked it's way to the outside, a lack of lubrication or overloading. A used bearing in good working order is as good or better than the replacement. If it hasn't failed from material defect and you haven't overloaded it, I would clearn it up swab out the tubes and put it back in.

Cheap insurance for one thing; I understand how someone like your self could say “if it ain’t broken don’t fix it”. For certain applications, there is nothing wrong with that statement, for mine I would rather replace it, then worry about it. It’s what, 30 dollars to replace those bearings?

You can go to Timkens site and look up the number per your application and countless others. I've found this to be a good reality check from time to time. http://www.timken.com/industries/aut...rtCatalog.aspx

According to Timkens site the bearing is a 5707 with a bore of 1.4016 an OD of 2.252 and width of .698.

I hope this helps

I does, thank you. Now I know that those bearings wouldn't fit my axles even if my axles were new.

[Stu Seitz]

Double post

[CarlC]

I don't believe that the bearing is made by Timken. They are likely reboxing or rebranding BCA parts.

For this application there needs to be a bit of radial clearance. You do not want a preloaded condition for this bearing type.

[MonzaRacer]

no Timken does not rebox parts unles it does not say timken on the actual part.
As for me I would have just bought a clip eliminator kit and been ready for anything. But as for me if I had .001 wear on an direct run axles9like 10/12 bolts I would give west coast differentiioals a call and talk to Mike Maddox PN 18006420950 or email him at [email protected] his direct line is 9166350950 ext110.
I wnet to WCD for parts when Istarted rebuilding diffs and got great service,, much better than Randy's ring and Pinion, dont remember who I talked to at Randy's but got run around, excuses and just plain PO'ed.
My second choice at time was Moser but they are so busy its rediculous. Gie Mike a call he is tops.
Lee Abel

[CarlC]

no Timken does not rebox parts unles it does not say timken on the actual part.

So what you are saying is if the part says BCA then Timken will rebox it? That's what I stated above. I'm confused, which is normal for me.


Timken purchases many bearings from other bearing manufacturers for use in the automotive aftermarket. Up until several years ago Timken did not have the manufacturing capability to make cylidrical roller bearings as used in the original posted application. Torringtion, who was bought by Timken, also did not make this part though they may have had the capability. BCA/NTN has been the OEM for this part for decades and nobody else wants it, or similar parts, due to the limited market and tooling costs.

[Steve68]

My axle savers bearings leak,

[MonzaRacer]

Timken has made cylindrical roller bearings as the rear end I just pulled aprt that is prbably 15 or 20 yrs old has Timken axle brgs in it.
As for the difference of bearings i have used Bower/BCA, Timken, SKF,S&S, heck I put an NTN in my Ingersoll Rand die grinder years ago when its original had enough water and abuse from me and its still working.
As a tech I have never found any one single bearing a bad drand, and have used many in my life on my own stuff. AS for Timken, if they do not have/produce then do purchase other brands as do a lot of other companies in production. Its law of demand if some one wants them it has to be there.
Bought NAPA Master Ride tie rod, came out of box as a Sealed Power! (which havent been made in several years.
Had several people tell me that certain brands of frontend parts were bad, thne strartedworking for company who socked same said parts ,, found out that hey all performed at least as good or better than stock parts.
I bought all bearings for later model GM truck rearend, one axle brg was Timken , one SKF, one pinion brg was BCA and race was SKF other had the brands swapped, and side bearings were made by Subaki (actual name on brgs. ) kind of wondered if diff would fail as owner wantted to pull trailer (camper) to Cali on fresh rear end but made him break in gears first, he drove to Tennesee for week end with no trailer, then he started out for west coast, got there , his job wasnt waiting for him so he drove back east to NMthen TX and well he called me the other day and had put over 11k miles and rearend is still quiet as church mouse and working fine (he has serviced diff at every engine service, I put a lower drain in the diff.
He really believes in servicing fluids,,, his last truck last 560k miles. The last truck was a Powerstroke andI know the present owner.
Again i prefer to do away with stock GM ale brgs and install c-clip eliminators. Very smart move to me.
Good luck
Lee

[silver69camaro]

Again i prefer to do away with stock GM ale brgs and install c-clip eliminators. Very smart move to me.
Good luck
Lee

Honestly, I've had more clip eliminators fail than c-clips. Pressed-on bearings are the right way to do it, IMO.

[Stu Seitz]

So looking at jegs for c-clip eliminators for stock 10 bolts, http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_83962_-1

It says the have a 1.400 seat, which I am assuming means ID of the bearing. But what I'm still wondering is how the hell can there be that much of a differance between the oringinal bearings/Moser and the Timkens. I mean I can't be the only one replaceing these bearings.

Honestly, I've had more clip eliminators fail than c-clips. Pressed-on bearings are the right way to do it, IMO.

Not saying I'm going to use these, but don't you have to press the eliminators on? Also, under what circumstances do c-clips fail?

[David Pozzi]

I haven't used the C clip Eliminators, but I read all the time about them leaking after a while.
I'd rather convert to Ford type bearings with weld on ends.
David

[Jim Nilsen]

3 months ago I pulled a Timken bearing out of a box and it was the wrong bearing in the box. Wasn't even close to the right bearing. The packaging was sealed and not resealed like it had been returned. The place we got them from,
Motion Industries , was not surprised and ordered another and it came in right the next time. The way places hire help these days and the lack quality control because of cost issues of being so competetive a lot of items get packed in the wrong box and never get noticed. More temporary help is being used everywhere in the industry and it is slowly catching up with them in problems as simple as packaging.

Find the bearings that fit like the old ones and you will be doing the right thing. I also agree that putting the old ones in would be ok and have reinstalled many bearings without failure after cleaning them and relubing them.

Jim Nilsen