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Thread: Starter grinding
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10-22-2006 #1
Starter grinding
I have a new 383 crate motor which came with a mini-starter.
I can't seem to get the starter shimmed correctly as it always wants to grind (75% of the time).
Does adding or removing shims bring the teeth closer on a sbc?
Thank you.
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10-22-2006 #2Adding shims moves the starter farther away. Check the teeth engagement. It is easier with a stock starter. I've seen a few engines that were align bored that had the crank too far up into the block. If that is your problem the easiest fix is to have a little material removed from the starter pad where it mounts. I've done it with a grinding disc in a pinch. FRANK
10-22-2006 #3
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Is your mini starter clockable as in can you rotate the housing?
10-23-2006 #4Yes it is, but that should only effect the position of the motor, not the nose gear.
10-23-2006 #5
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If i remember is there not a measurement between the top of the starter motor gear and the base of the flywheel tooth.
10-24-2006 #6How do you get the gear to engauge (extend out?
Can you just pull it out by hand to get it close to the flywheel to measure?
03-25-2007 #7I have tried adding and removing shims.
I have also added and removed the nose cone shim.
It still grinds.
I have not shimmed only one side.
Is that a normal thing to do?
03-28-2007 #8If your flywheel is good, check the distance from the bendex teeth and flywheel teeth. If you block has been line bored it can move your crand up in the block too far. One guy I work on stuff for had 2 engines this way (built by the same shop). I had to remove material from the starter pad to move it closer. Before anything was done the starter would work sometimes, grind others and make the worst noise I've ever heard the rest. I made a tape line on the starter and ground the pad down on the first one, to see if it would fix it. The other the guy had machined off. They both worked flawlessly after that.
03-29-2007 #9



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