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    Results 1 to 13 of 13
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Location
      Scottsdale AZ
      Posts
      294

      Starter grinding

      I have a new 383 crate motor which came with a mini-starter.

      I can't seem to get the starter shimmed correctly as it always wants to grind (75% of the time).

      Does adding or removing shims bring the teeth closer on a sbc?

      Thank you.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      CHICAGO SUBURBS
      Posts
      761
      Adding shims moves the starter farther away. Check the teeth engagement. It is easier with a stock starter. I've seen a few engines that were align bored that had the crank too far up into the block. If that is your problem the easiest fix is to have a little material removed from the starter pad where it mounts. I've done it with a grinding disc in a pinch. FRANK

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Caledonia Ontario Canada
      Posts
      50
      Is your mini starter clockable as in can you rotate the housing?

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Location
      Scottsdale AZ
      Posts
      294
      Yes it is, but that should only effect the position of the motor, not the nose gear.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      England
      Posts
      1,042
      If i remember is there not a measurement between the top of the starter motor gear and the base of the flywheel tooth.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Location
      Scottsdale AZ
      Posts
      294
      How do you get the gear to engauge (extend out?

      Can you just pull it out by hand to get it close to the flywheel to measure?

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Location
      Scottsdale AZ
      Posts
      294
      I have tried adding and removing shims.

      I have also added and removed the nose cone shim.

      It still grinds.

      I have not shimmed only one side.

      Is that a normal thing to do?

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      CHICAGO SUBURBS
      Posts
      761
      If your flywheel is good, check the distance from the bendex teeth and flywheel teeth. If you block has been line bored it can move your crand up in the block too far. One guy I work on stuff for had 2 engines this way (built by the same shop). I had to remove material from the starter pad to move it closer. Before anything was done the starter would work sometimes, grind others and make the worst noise I've ever heard the rest. I made a tape line on the starter and ground the pad down on the first one, to see if it would fix it. The other the guy had machined off. They both worked flawlessly after that.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Nov 2000
      Location
      O-town
      Posts
      4,330
      Country Flag: United States
      I was having the same prob, installed it with no shims, works fine!
      Steve68- 1968 Camaro SS LSX T56, 12bolt 3:90's, 18" Fikse Profil 13s, Deep Fathom Green paint, Spearcos, just bunch of old junk because another member said so, LOL



      70 Nova SS street/drag 454, T400, 3:55, ugly!

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Sep 2001
      Location
      Accord, NY
      Posts
      2,295
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Steve68
      I was having the same prob, installed it with no shims, works fine!
      Ditto!
      69 Camaro convertible, 410, M22, 8-pt cage therapy program. SOLD.
      68 camaro - SOLD
      67 Bel Air - New street project with perfect floors, frame and trunk!

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Location
      Scottsdale AZ
      Posts
      294
      I am now on my second starter.

      The first was a Hitachi style. I tried removing material, adding shims, everything I could think of. I must have had the starter in/out 50 times.

      I just bought a mini high torque with the offset flang thinking that would work. That one will engauge the bendex , but the starter motor just whins and does not crank.

      I don't know what to try now.

      Any suggestions. If I keep this up, I may have to put a new flywheel in it as well.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Nov 2000
      Location
      O-town
      Posts
      4,330
      Country Flag: United States
      Did you put it in Starter to Block no shims, no nothing, give it a try, I know it looks like it needs to be shimmed, Let us know!!!
      Steve68- 1968 Camaro SS LSX T56, 12bolt 3:90's, 18" Fikse Profil 13s, Deep Fathom Green paint, Spearcos, just bunch of old junk because another member said so, LOL



      70 Nova SS street/drag 454, T400, 3:55, ugly!

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Salem N.H.
      Posts
      44

      Starter just spinning

      In the same boat, starter was winding but no engagement. Thought it was to far from away from the flywheel. It was actually in to close I had to use the second bolt holes which moved the starter 1/4 in out. The starter gear was going into the back of flywheel and just free wheeling . All was well. 20 cranks later started grinding, put two shims in and it cranks again now with the noize of being over shimmed ???? Hope this helps someone if not please help me?
      Kevin
      69 Camaro 454
      HD soft Tail
      72 Telecaster




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