9 inch trouble

[68ls1wannabe]

I'm currently minitubbing my 68 camaro for the new C6 wheels. The backs will be widened to at least 17x11. For the new axle I wanna run a ford 9in. I can get one from the local junk yard for $150 complete. They were under f150 truck. I believe the axle will be long enough so that I can use the C6 wheels without having to buy wheel adapters. I will need to get the axle cut to correct length, new custom axle shafts and general refreshing of the axle, and setting up for the ls1 brake conversion. Will it be cheaper doing this or just buying a complete setup? I plan on doing all the work myself.

[Gordz32]

I know axles can get pricey when you start ordering custom lengths$$ Depending on what diff you go with, and rebuilding and cleaning up the housing, it will most likely be less than buying a new one. We paid about $2500 from moser for one of there bolt in units with a backbrace, detroit tru-trac, fill/drain plugs, I must say that the quality was excellent. Good Luck, and if you buy a junkyard rear, make sure there not overcharging you, People are realizing that they can get more for these and really rack up the prices.

[68ls1wannabe]

I believe it will have a posi unit in it already since it's coming out from under 4x4. I've got about 15 different units to choose from so pretty much got my pick. Hopefully I'll be able to sandblast the housing and weld a back brace to it and it'll come out looking ok. Will the LS1 housing ends fit the 9in ends? That is the easiest way to adapt the LS1 brakes right?

[chicane67]

Ls1 housing ends ?? You mean off of a 96-2002 Camaro differential ??

If so, no. The tube diameters are different. The easiest way to adapt the standard LS1/PBR single piston rear brakes is to purchase the axle retainer plate/brake bracket that fits the 3" tube diameter of the 9" housing.

[Gordz32]

he hit the nail on the head, You must be careful when welding the tubes b/c of warpage. There are kits out there for narrowing 9"s with a machined bar and some pucks to keep it straight. Alotta kids in my class are building Fab 9", I could see if some might wanna sell them if your intrested, prob $300-500 for them.

[OHCbird]

I have a 12 bolt already done for sale that you could run those wheels on; I can also take care of the axles and ends for you (if you want to run the LS1 brakes).

Also- I'm in N. FL if that helps.

Shoot me an email or PM if you're interested; If you're stuck on having a 9", i can get that for you too ( the same guy that is doing the Ford ends on my 12bolt).

[68ls1wannabe]

I got the 9". Done a little horse trading. Problem now is the 9" pinion is offset to the right. This pushes the rearend out further on the drivers side than the passenger side. New idea. Get the drivers side cut equal to match the passenger side, new axles with 5 on 4.75 bolt pattern. Gonna run the C6 wheels with adapters on the street so that when going to the track I can run some deeper dish drag wheels. I want to fit 28x10.50w15's on the back tucked under the fenderwell. Where can I find this axle retainer plate/brake braket? Who sells it?

[GUS68]

Go back to the junk yard and get a Pass side axle out of the same model of pickup. Then cut and narrow the driverside down to work with your new used axle and your pinion should be centered for way cheap!!!!! If thats what your after.

[big gear head]

The 9 inch Ford doesn't have the same length axles on both sides like GM rear ends do. You can't use 2 right axles to center the pinion. The pinion is not centered in a Camaro anyway, it is offset 1/2 inch from center to the right, so the right housing end is 1 inch closer to the pinion than the left.

As for using the LS1 housing ends on the Ford housing, you can't do that either becaise there would be nothing to hold the axles in. The LS1 rear end (7 5/8 10 bolt) has c clip axles and the 9 inch Ford has no way of installing c clips. You can get Moser housing ends that take the 9 inch Ford axle bearings, but have the Chevy brake bolt pattern on them for Chevy brakes. When you narrow the Ford housing you must use the Chevy axle hang out of 2 3/4 inches instead of the Ford axle hang out of 2 1/2 inches for the Chevy brakes to fit. You must also bore the hole in the center of the caliper bracket to fit the 9 inch axle bearings. The bracket will now be the axle retainer, so this must be done right. Custom axles are going to be a must in your case. Below is a picture of the Moser housng ends installed on a Chevelle 12 bolt and the cut off original end.

As for the Ford posi (Traction Lock), be carefull, these break easily and many times they will be broke when you remove them from the truck. You can easily identify a 9 inch with a Traction Lock by looking at the tag. The tag will also give the gear ratio. There are 2 lines of information on the tag. The bottom line will have the gear ratio and gear size on it. It will look something like this 3L.50 9 xxx. This is for a 9 inch with a 3.50 gear and the Traction Lock. If there is no L in the gear ratio then it is not a Traction Lock. I have a picture of a cracked TL if you are interested.

[68ls1wannabe]

I took the rear end apart and found that the ring gear has some rust spots on the teeth. Also it is a 3.08 gear. I guess i'm gonna have to get new gears "3.73". also will need a posi off some type. The original axles are 28 spline. I'll be narrowing the rear to 57 in. after my measurements I belive that will be the ideal width for the 17x11rears with 6.5" backspacing. When narrowing the rear i am gonna cut it 2" past the housing ends. then cut off the desired amount and then reweld the housing ends. Am i going in the right direction. $ is a big factor.

[big gear head]

Do you have a housing fixture to line up the housing ends before you weld them on? You must use one or you will probably ruin the axle bearings or eat the splines off of the axles. I've seen it happen. I have narrowed many 9 inch housings and none of them are straight. If you weld a back brace on it you wil warp it even more. The housing fixture is the only way to get the ends in line with the bearing bore in the center.

Don't bother with an original Ford Traction Lock. They are very weak and will not hold up to abuse. Most of them are already cracked when you take them out of a stock Ford truck. The US Gear Torque Line unit is good. It has clutch plates and a billit steel side cover. Don't use an Auburn. They are bad enough in a GM rear end, and even worse in a 9 inch Ford. The 9 inch gears will be 3.70. I had a complete 9 inch center set up and ready to install with new 3.70 gears, 31 spline Detroit Locker, nodular case, Daytona pinion housing and new bearings. I sold it last week.

[wendell]

I'd forget about welding a back brace to the housing. Completely useless. If you're stuck on the fixture, find a local circle track chassis shop. They should have one. I hate to say it but the price difference between having a new one shipped and building one from a core is going to be marginal at best. Good luck with your project.

[68ls1wannabe]

I'm starting to see the light.

I hate to say it but the price difference between having a new one shipped and building one from a core is going to be marginal at best. Good luck with your project.

[Josh]

Unless you can get a early Bronco or Mustang rear that does not need to be cut, the cost will be approaching 2 grand for a good set up. When getting a core to build, assume you will just use the gears, housing and center carrier. Axles, locker, bearing kit and brakes will have to be bought in most cases. Listen to what BGH says, he da man!